Timing chain tensioner knock / clacking, how to change/fix?

[trevor404]

I searched and I can't seem to actually find a how-to on changing a timing chain tensioner.

I know FOR SURE that the clacking is coming from the drivers side of the front valve cover.
So I have some questions:
1) Can I change my tensioner without removing the timing chain?
2) Are the 1995 SHO valve cover gaskets reusable?
3) If my tensioner is just gummed up, is there an easier way to try to fix this without actually taking apart the motor?
4) How far can I drive it with the tensioner not working right?? I need to drive it like 10 minutes slowly to my dad's shop.

Thanks in advance, I will make a how-to when I fix it.

 

[jthod]

1.No, you'll have to remove one of the sprockets to have enough room to get it out.

2.If and only if they are in good condition, and be careful not to mess one up yourself, $80+!!!

3.The tensioner will come out and it can be cleaned, but make sure the noise isn't due to the wear pad being, well, wear'd out.

4.Depends how bad it is, and how concered you are with it. When in doubt, tow it. Some one else may want to help you on this part.

 

[jelloslug]

1) Gotta remove the sprockets to get them out.
2) Only if they are in good shape (ie. soft). Bet on them not being in good shape.
3) The only way to really get it clean it to remove it and take it apart. After you get them out carefully remove the roll pin on the side and pull it apart. There will be 2 springs and 2 pistons on the inside. Clean everything with your solvent of choice and make sure the check valve on the inner piston is free (it should rattle when you shake it). As for the pad, as long as it's still there and not down to the metal you should be good.

4) I don't think you can really damage anything by driving a short distance. If the tensioner was REALLY bad and the chain was REALLY stretched out you could possible wear a groove in the valve cover. That could throw some aluminum into the oil but this is a worst case scenario.

 

[jelloslug]

Also, don't forget to plug up the oil return holes in the head while you are working. Nothing sucks worse than a bolt in the oil pan. Don't forget to remove whatever you plug up the holes with either.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I can vouch for that.

Last October, we (Eric VerValin, me and some of his non-SHO friends) were tearing-down a very clean, low mileage MTX motor. The plug wires looked almost brand new as if a 60K had been recently done, and the engine appeared to have been well maintained. The MTX also appeared to be in good shape, as I believe Eric later installed it in his SHO and has been driving on it.

So why did a SHO with good motor and trans with less than 100,000 end-up in the salvage yard? I suspect that the plastic engine damper cover that I found lodged in one of the primary intake runners -effectively blocking 60- to70-percent of the intake runner cross-section may have had something to do with it

I can't imagine it not having a pronounced affect on that one cylinder throughout most of the rpm range.

 

[trevor404]

That's brutal. I try to keep my big plastic parts away from the inside of my motor.

So I drove the car home with no problems, the sound only comes in at about 2500 rpm so I kept the revs really low. I will tear into it this weekend most likely.

 

[JRA2000TL]

LMK what all is involved with this out of curiosity. My car is pretty much sold as soon as I get all the paperwork but I have the same problem. I am just too scared to tear into a motor. I wish there was a step by step writeup with pics on how to do this similar to how the rod bearing write up is done. If I fixed that, the noisy exhaust and the p/s pump, it'd be a solid car for awhile...or so I'd hope.