Timing Belt Project part numbers & Procedure Advice

[OrwellianChild]

Timing Belt Project part numbers & Procedure Advice (With PICS!)

UPDATED! Pics and more description down-thread!

Hello all,

Unnecessary history follows... To cut to the chase, look for the bold text!

A while back, I was fishing around for maintenance advice on some error codes, and everyone pointed me to the 60k tune up that would clear up some CPS issues... Well, I've undertaken it, and I've run into some extra issues.

The first issue would be the crank bolt. It was on *tight*, and the bump-start just rounded all the corners off... It took an impact wrench plus some Craftsman Bolt-Outs to get it off... (we invented a cool tool to keep it from spinning - I'll post on that later in a separate thread) Now, though, the bolt is trashed and I don't know where to look to get another one... Any suggestions?

The second problem we had was the Timing Belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, and the assembly for that pulley. The pulley bolt had somehow gotten loose, and the pulley had started grinding down into the assembly, creating a horrible squeaking noise. It was essentially eating itself away and ground away a semi-circular region of the assembly/bracket. I'll post pictures later this weekend.

Also, the tensioner itself, which is supposed to be compressible with a C-clamp according to the SHO Phoenix Project guide, was fighting a full-size shop vise to compress. I think it's clogged or jammed (unless you guys really think it's supposed to be that tight). You guys usually seem to suffer from it becoming loose, so I'm kinda confused. I'm intending to get it replaced, unless someone can convice me that it's not necessary.

So the bottom line is, I need 4 parts, and I only have 1 part number. I'm also looking for a good place to buy all of these, but I'm not sure where to look, as this is not normal RockAuto stuff.

Tensioner (Part #F3DZ-6L266-A): I've found it at FordPartsOnline.com for $116.51 plus shipping, but I'd love to find one cheaper somewhere else.

I still need the Idler Pulley for the ATX tensioner, the assembly/bracket for that pulley, and a new Crank Bolt. Does anyone have the part numbers for these? Sources for parts?

Procedure Question:
Once I've got the new pulley, I'm not sure how to align it properly for the timing belt. It mounts off-center, so it has a rotation arc it can follow around the bolt. Again, I'll try to get a picture, but the loose bolt let it be pushed over onto the assembly itself. What is the proper way to align it? There seems to be a couple of guide holes, but unless there is a proper tool to do it with, I'm kinda clueless... Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[TYSHO]

Also, the tensioner itself, which is supposed to be compressible with a C-clamp according to the SHO Phoenix Project guide, was fighting a full-size shop vise to compress. I think it's clogged or jammed (unless you guys really think it's supposed to be that tight).

The tensioner is suppose to be hard to compress, but if you had to put a lot of muscle on the vise, I'd double check and make sure the piston deal wasn't being compressed at an angle. If that was the case, you most likely screwed the seal up, meaning you ruined the tensioner. Also, if it was hard to compress and was going in at an angle, you'd feel it crush the washer piece inside and then become easy to compress further, meaning you damaged it.

 

[OrwellianChild]

Also, if it was hard to compress and was going in at an angle, you'd feel it crush the washer piece inside and then become easy to compress further, meaning you damaged it.

Thanks for the input. I'm pretty certain this didn't happen, though. It's still hard as **** to compress, and we had it lined up pretty well in the vise. It did compress, it just took a lot of force, and we popped it back out a couple of times before we could get the pin hole to line up correctly (to insert the allen wrench and keep it compressed). Further, we tried the C-clamp strategy many a time before removing the tensioner from the car. The clamp would always walk itself off of the peg (not the piston).

That said, I'm not sure it being "too hard" is a bad thing, as it's just pushing the pulley onto the timing belt... Is there such a thing as "too much tension"? (Maybe you guys with MTXs would know since yours is a manual tensioner?)

Thanks again guys!

 

[TYSHO]

The amount of force is pretty strong and I had the same problems with the c-clamp, which made me use a vise. I wouldn't worry too much about the outward pressure it's giving you.

Also, on your procedure question, I'm a little lost. Maybe you can try explaining a little different? I know when you have the pulley assembly bracket mounted to the block, it pivots even when the pulley is installed, this is normal. When re-installing the tensioner, you have to pivot the pulley towards the front of the car and manage to get the tensioner piston in the correct place on the tensioner bracket, quite a task for someones first time without the proper tool. If I recall, the third item down on this page will help press the assembly toward the timing belt so you can install the tensioner without any trouble.

 

[OrwellianChild]

Okay... I finally managed to get some pictures, so hopefully this will clarify things...

So here is my tensioner pulley assembly... What is wrong with this picture?

The pulley somehow came loose enough to wrap around and start grinding itself away into it's own assembly... Check out the damage to the assembly itself!

In the process the pulley managed to trash itself... Incidentally, that groove is right where the washer goes... The slipping squeaking sound I had been hearing had actually been that pulley trying to self-destruct:

Naturally, I need to find replacements for the tensioner (seemingly busted, and now leaking fluid) and the pulley at very least (anyone have the pulley part number?)

The Procedure Question Explained:
Compare these two pictures:

The first is how I found it, and the second shows the arc the pulley can travel (before you tighten it down). My question is: How do you find the appropriate spot to tighten down the pulley so it doesn't rotate around and grind itself to death?

I presume the $60 tool TYSHO pointed out is designed to fit in those two guide holes on the pulley, but is there a way to save myself the $60 and set it up some other way? What is the tool for anyway?

Also, the SHOTimes guide mentions this in Step 17:

Do not lose the little rubber wedge that goes between the oil pump housing and the tensioner.

Um... What little rubber wedge? Can I get a pic or description? Maybe a part number?

Hope this helps... Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to read and consider... These were *not* the issues I was expecting to have when I started this project, and all the guides seem to gloss over the whole tensioner pulley assembly part.

 

[TYSHO]

Naturally, I need to find replacements for the tensioner (seemingly busted, and now leaking fluid) and the pulley at very least (anyone have the pulley part number?)

Contact YamahaV6, he has extra used parts usually lying around. He might not always have the lowest prices around, but he doesn't have sky rocket prices, either. Not to mention, he is a great guy to deal with!

The first is how I found it, and the second shows the arc the pulley can travel (before you tighten it down). My question is: How do you find the appropriate spot to tighten down the pulley so it doesn't rotate around and grind itself to death?

I presume the $60 tool TYSHO pointed out is designed to fit in those two guide holes on the pulley, but is there a way to save myself the $60 and set it up some other way? What is the tool for anyway?

That tool is the one you need and allows you to properly torque the pulley before fully tightening the bolt. When it is torqued properly, it will be set the correct way where it does not hit and rub against the bracket. For $60, you can't beat the benefit. You get the proper tool for the job so you don't run into this problem again, plus you get one to help make reinstalling the tensioner much easier.

Also, the SHOTimes guide mentions this in Step 17:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...le=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=65
Um... What little rubber wedge? Can I get a pic or description? Maybe a part number?

The part mentioned is the triangle shaped insert with grooves that goes between the oil pump lip and tensioner. This part keeps the timing area sealed from debris. When you remove the tensioner, sometimes it will fall right out of place or will be stuck on either the tensioner or oil pump housing. If you're still lost about what it looks like, I can take a picture to show you.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Okay, grab a beer and sit back, this is hard to explain.

That little two prong tool is used to pre-tension the bearing against the newly installed timing belt, BEFORE you release the little allen wrench from the piston stop rest. They want you to use some ridiculously low amount of torque on the two prong tool, something like 5-8 inch pounds.

So this is what you do: Get two nails that fit those holes and use them to rotate the bearing towards the newly installed timing belt. Use just enough of a light twist to snug the bearing against the belt firmly, then tighten up the eccentric's bolt in the middle. Just for grins and giggles, reach down and feel how taut the belt is.

Now carefully pull out the allen wrench, releasing the piston so it can push on the pivot and put further tension on the belt. Again reach down and feel the tension on the belt, should be much tighter now.

The reason for the eccentric in the middle is so you can snug the bearing up to the belt. The little piston only has about 3/4" of travel, and if your belt was old and stretched out or the pulley was too far away from the belt to begin with, the little piston wouldn't have enough travel to put full pressure on the belt.

Hope that helps.

Tom

Dang you TYSHO, I can't type as fast as you.

 

[TYSHO]

Dang you TYSHO, I can't type as fast as you.

And I posted a long time before you even posted, too. You must type with one finger!