Tie Rod Replacement Questions

[BenBrausen]

Yesterday I had my summer tires put on and now at speeds over 65mph my front end shakes. The steering wheel moves back and forth about 1/4in and viberates. I'd assume this is because of bad tie rods (I've already been told I need to repace the driver side one). I didn't have an alignment done when the tires were put on but the tires were highspeed balanced. I plan on replacing the tie rod ends on Sunday.

I went to Checker Auto and picked up both the inner and outer for both sides. It's the same part for both sides right? No specific right and left? Inner are part number ES3064R with ES3105HD in smaller letters below it. Outer are ES2513R. The outer ball joint takes quite a bit of effort to move but this is normal right? It came with a little valve too, where do I screw it into? Where do I wanna grease it and what kinda grease is best to use?

Any clue who manufactured these ones? The box says McQuay-Norris, it's red, white, and blue. They came with a lifetime warranty. Total for both sides (inner and outer) was $70 and some change.

Are there any other special tools I might need other then that 1 5/6" deep socket Autozone rental tool OEM #27024 and some liquid wrench? Any parts I might break and need to replace while doin' it? I'm doin' it on a Sunday and need to be sure I have everything cause the stores all close early and I need to be able to get to work the next morning. I have a friend that's gonna help me out with it too. How big of hose clamps should I get for the bellows? Is there anything else I should replace under there while I'm at it? Bushings?

Where should I spray the liquid wrench? On just the outer tie rod or the inner too? I can spray the outer through the slicer but the inner I don't have access to without removing the wheel. Even crankin the wheels all the way to one side doesn't gimme enough room to get in there with lowering springs and struts.

One more question for everyone with a lowered SHO. Does your turn radius suck too? I can't make a U turn in a 2 lane street most of the time.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

1. sounds like you need an alignment more than TRE's
2. Correct. Left and Right are NOT part # specific.
3. fresh joints. they will be stiff. Stiff is good.
4. Zerk fitting. There should be holes in the ball joints to thread the fittings into. They make their own threads. Be careful with them, they are easily stripped.
5. I use a synthetic wheel bearing grease, in a grease gun. Us the Zerk's.
6. the rented deep socket is the only 'special' tool you need.
7. I reused my stock clamps for the bellows.
8. liquid wrench? for what?
9. EVERY taurus has a lousy turning radius. Lowering will not effect it, unless your tires are rubbing.

 

[BenBrausen]

Couple people had said in a previous postin' on tie rods that you'll wanna soak them in Liquid Wrench a couple days before the job because they can be a b**** to get off. Do I have to use a grease gun? I'm sure we have one somewhere but I'm not totally sure where and I'd assume it's full of some other kinda grease right now. Is there an adaptor needed to hook onto the zerk fitting? Does the rear subframe have to be dropped a bit to do it or does it just make it alot easier? Is the ATX really a much bigger b**** to do? Is the passenger side really a ton worse? Sorry for all the questions. Lets hope others use the search feature down the line and also learn from the responses. I searched but most of these questions weren't answered (most likley cause others felt too stupid asking them).

What should the typical alignment cost ballpark? I've never had to pay for one before as my dad's cusin's shop has always done them for free for me but I'm sure I'd have to wait about 1/2 a week for an appointment first and I'd rather not. Is it cool to goto a **** and tire place or should I goto a good shop to have it done? Also how much should I be lookin' at to have new wheel bearings pressed in? Thanks for all the help.

 

[Slo-Sho]

1.Jack/support the car...remove wheel.
2.Remove cotter pin from outer tie rod...remove castle nut.
3.Use two wrenches to break the outer loose from the inner tie rod.
4.Use 5lb sledge or similar to break outer tie rod loose from knuckle.
5.Remove inner boot..use removal tool to remove inner tie rod.
6.Installation is reverse of removal.
7.Repeat for other side.
8.Get alignment ASAP...(given no other susp. component is worn out)

Should take a newbie w/ the right tools about an hour...Your mechanical abilities may differ...........

 

[BenBrausen]

Sounds easy enough. Thanks for the help. Any guesses on alignment prices? Should I replace anything else while I'm in there?

 

[93redATX]

Alignments can run anywhere from $30 on up. The shop where I get all my alignments done charges $35.

All in all, it's not a hard job. Considering you are in Minnesota, the outers may be a little tough to get loosened, but it shouldn't be anything you can't handle. Mine weren't too bad on either my '93 or the old '89 SLO I had (which was extremely rusty, both underneath and the body itself).

If you're up to it, another good thing to replace while you're in there would be your sway bar end links, but it's probably not necessary if they've been replaced. Even the stockers aren't too shabby. If you've still got stock end links, you would save some time to just go ahead and replace them while you're in there for the tie rods. If you do replace them, don't get the plastic end links; go for either the stock steel ones or get the Windstar links (IIRC they were used on '95s, but I'm not sure of the range).

 

[BenBrausen]

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna skip the sway bar links since the previous owner replaced them 2 times it looks like from the reciepts.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

If you don't have access to a grease gun, another option is to buy the OEM Ford outers as they are sealed and pre-greased, although with the price difference it'll probably be cheaper just to buy a grease gun!

When removing the old outers from the spindle, it works best if you whack the spindle itself from the side (where the tie rod end goes through the eye), the end should pop out after just 2 or 3 whacks. If you try to hammer it out by hitting it from the bottom, it usually takes a lot more tries, and can sometimes deform the end of the stud making too fat to fit through the eye to remove it.

 

[DavidT]

my 91 seems to need new tie rods as well. The drivers side wheel will wobble pretty good left and right (with it jacked up)
The pass. side is VERY firm... can I just replace the drivers side, or is it imperitive to do pass. side at the same time?

 

[BenBrausen]

How do you remove the inner clamp on the bellows? I was gonna try to replace them today but I couldn't get the car jacked up high enough so I'll have to go buy a new jack (old one can't seem go get it up). I could hardly see the inner clamp from the bottom between the inside of the subframe and the exhaust.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Use whatever means neccesary to twist/break it off as you will be using zip ties to secure the new boot.

 

[S_Mazza]

I believe those need to be cut off with snips (or broken, whatever), because they aren't like hose clamps that you can loosen. One time use only.

DavidT, lots of shops will replace tie rods individually, so I don't see why you shouldn't. However, it's probably best to do both the inner and outer on the same side, because one worn part may lead to another.

Question: Can you use screw-type hose clamps when you reinstall the boots?

 

[Slo-Sho]

That isn't neccesarily true if both parts can be properly inspected. Inner tie rods seldom go bad. They can be easily checked for play as well. Yes, you can use a screw clamp or whatever clamp as long as it's secure.

 

[rfiltz]

Also check your ball joints. The non-greaseable plastic ones on the SHO will wear out. You have to replace the entire lower control arm for those. Get MOOG parts, they will have greaseable joints. Kind of a bitch to get off, unless you do it just right (get a big pry bar!) I had to cut the ends off one of mine, but then figured out the other one (bigger pry bar).

 

[DavidT]

can you screw up strut bearings or cv joints while installing lower control arms?
My sho has new lower control arms, but makes horrendous noises when turning the steering wheel...

 

[UnsungZero]

Have The Balancing Rechecked to....the Shop's Balance Can Go Out Of calibration.......

and check the tires for belt seperation too

this can also cause a shimmy