Tie Rod and Ball Joint Questions

[BenBrausen]

I just had my car in the shop to have the summer tires put on the rear because I blew one of my winter tires (hopefully winter will end soon cause the rear has no traction now). On the recommendations they listed the following:

Left Front Wheel Bearing
Left Front Tie Rod End
-Upper Ball Joint...

What will I need to replace these myself? Parts wise that is... Installation help would be great too. Also, once I replace them, do I HAVE to go and get the tires realigned or can I wait another month or so til spring comes and I can have the summer tires put on the front at which point the entire suspension will be aligned? I don't really plan on using the 2 remaining winter tires next year, I've put over 50K on them and I'm thinkin' I'll pop for some new ones come winter. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm doin all that anyways? Any little parts I'll need that might now come with the bigger ones? Thanks for all the help guys.

Also they always list "Cyclops LED Assembly". Isn't this just the 3rd brake light? My brake light works fine. Is that something else?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Ummmm, since there is no such thing as an "upper ball joint" in a SHO (or any Taurus/Sable for that matter), you might want to try a different shop.

It is usually recommended to replace wheel bearings, and tie rod ends in pairs. And yes, any time you replace a tie rod end an alignment is required. It's not so much for tire wear or driver comfort, but the safety and handling of the car. If the wheels have different toe, in an abrupt maneuver or even with a little rain on the road, it would be very easy to lose control of the car.

The lower control arm/ball joint assy's and tie rod ends are relatively easy DIY projects. The wheel bearings require an arbor press to remove and reinstall the hubs and bearings.

I would also assume the "Cyclops LED Assembly" they refer to means the 3rd brake light, although I haven't heard anyone use the cyclops term since about 1987. Again, it might be worth trying a different shop.

 

[SonicRiot]

I'm trying to read your post...but that thing in your sig is so ...distracting!

Word of advice: PB Blaster and WD-40. You will need it. Soak the components in PB Blaster a few days before you sart. And make sure all of the parts with spare bolts are there, in the boxes or in your posession. That stuff is all SUPPOSED to be a 4 hour job, MAX. Some of my components were so rusty when me and my buddy replaced (this was two days ago now...I'll give you whole scoop when I finally catch up on my sleep)the lower ball joint/control arms, knuckles, calipers, and rotors that it took us 15 hours....straight...to do all of this work! Make sure you have good tools and another car to drive to the parts shop when the idiots at AutoZone give you the WRONG PARTS rant and you end up stripping all the rusty bolts and nuts that you must destroy to get off! headbang

 

[sdpatt]

If the wheel bearings are in need of replacement, you should be able to determine this yourself by checking for motion in the hub. You can check my experiences with my own hub and bearing in this topic.

You can also check the tie rod end yourself. If it is squeaking, you can **** it even if it is an OEM part. I used a hypo needle full of grease to inject **** through a nail-cerated hole in the rubber boot. If there is play in the rod end, it must be replaced.

That shop's intelligence and honesty are suspect. Upper ball joint? Cyclops LED Assembly?

 

[SonicRiot]

Whoa...what?!?! eek!

WTF is a a Cyclops LED assembly!?!

laugh_ti

PLEASE...do not use that shop!!!