Throttle Stop 3.2 ATX and Code 332

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Winterhawk

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When in neutral sometimes my idle is around 1,500 rpm's. In gear it is around 1,000. Can I adjust the throttle stop? I have installed a new MAF, 2 new oxygen sensors and all new ERG valve and 3 sensors for it. I am getting an intermittent code of 332 Lack of EGR flow. The code comes and goes. I have a different ECM I can try. Also do I need to pull the intake and throttle body to clean out the EGR passage ways? Any photos of the passage ways?

This is my first post. My 1993 3.2 ATX is my 3rd SHO over the past 15 years. I love these cars and want to make it perfect.
 

hawkeye18

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A bad idle air valve can cause this condition. Please don't adjust the idle screw; the EEC will eventually adjust it right back out and you'll be right back where it started.
 

SHO Dude

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Check the ports behind the throttle plate. They get plugged up with carbon and crap.

The idle hard stop should be set so that it barley idles at around 600rpm. Then the computer will handle the rest. Once you get the intake cleaned out and the throttle plates clean, reset the battery and computer and let it learn the idle strategy again.

For reference, the IAB duty cycle should be around 36% and the TPS voltage should be jut under 1v.
 

SHOZ123

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Have you tested or changed the TPS?

To test back probe the connector and see what the voltage is when key on/engine off. Then slowly open the throttle all the way.

Throttle closed should not be over .99v and above .90v. WOT should be ~4.5V. While opening the throttle slowly there should be a smooth steady rise in voltage with no sudden jumps or dead areas.
 

bubba

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Normal on the atx so you don't spin the altnater to fast.... that alittle low I think it should be right around 38 to 42 on the rail. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong





Also when in park and I rev it by hand it wants to bog down at higher revs Is this normal?

fuel pressure is >32 psi.
 

hawkeye18

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Yes, the ATX has a 4000rpm neutral fuel cut-off to protect the transmission internals. Fairly low, if you ask me, but I can't complain, I guess.

32 psi at idle does seem a little bit low, but not low enough to make it die.

You do not need to remove the intake to get to the throttle body; there are two coolant lines, one vacuum line up top and a big ol' PCV line at the bottom of it (it's not easy getting it off), then the throttle/cruise cables that are held on with either an 8 or 10mm bolt, and two 12mm bolts and two 12mm nuts holding the TB on. Fairly involved the first time, but after that you'll get the hang of it.

Search the forum for "throttle body bypass" for instructions on how to bypass those coolant lines (which are almost beyond useless) so you never have to mess with them again when removing the TB or intake.
 

Winterhawk

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I did it and the 2 EGR holes behind the throttle body were plugged solid with carbon. I drove it 100 miles tonight and the check engine light never came on. You guys are the greatest. Thanks. SHO's forever and forever SHO's. LOL
 

bubba

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Its was the top to..... the were clogged right? When I was having the same problem Eric and I cleaned everything out. But all 4 of mine was packed with, dirt.... We cleaned that thing for acouple of hours and got it good and cleaned. Glad everything worked out for youj!
 

Winterhawk

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I was a little bad today. After getting it running right on a vacant stretch of highway I took it up to 120mph and it was still pulling strong. I think it was running around 5,000 rpm's. My 1989 I had it to 143mph a few years back. The throttle backed off by itself.
 

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