Throttle Position Sensor Questions

[dpsutphin]

The connector for the TPS in my 3.0 was bad (two badly crimped wires), I found a connector from a 1994 3.2 at a wrecking yard and spliced it in carefully being sure to get all the wires in the right place. Although none of the colors match on the wires, the connector will only go on one way, so it was easy to get them matched correctly.

The problem is that the check engine light will not go off. I still get a constant code 63 (TPS circuit out of range). I guess the sensor itself has gone bad, although it was fine before I started on the 60K about a month ago.

My questions are: Could the different connector cause this problem? And if I get a new sensor, should I get one for the 3.0 engine in the car, or one to match the 3.2 connector, or are they both the same?

 

[dpsutphin]

Well, since no one had any ideas on this one, I figured it out myself. The new connector makes no difference. I replaced the TPS, and the car runs like new with no codes.

Now I have a coolant leak that has just appeared, so I am replacing the upper hose and bypass hoses, which seems to be where the leak is, although there is no sign of a hole or break in any of them.

If anyone knows of anything else that could be leaking in the area just below the throttle body, please let me know.

 

[SASHO91]

could be a few things...
The little hose that connects the T-stat housing to the ECT housing. Or the ECT housing. Could also be the line for the oil heat exhanger. As well as TB lines....

The best way, is to let the car warm up to the highest operating temp, and then turn the car off. Listen for any hissing, and look for leaks. However, the ideal way would be to pressurize the system with a pressure tester. That would show the leaks very fast, and you wouldnt have any hot lines to deal with.

 

[SHOZ123]

The TPS sensor is easy to check with an ohm meter.

Connect the middle and top terminals to an ohm meter, then slowly move the TPS through it's range. Should be no supped jumps or dead spots.