Thinking of doing an engine build

[pejohnson]

I wanted for a long time to do an engine build. I have very little experience with motors and just have basic tools. I do have an engine stand my neighbor gave me. I have however spent many hours, like many of you, working on several of my SHO's over the years. One area that has always made me uncomfortable is tearing into the engine. So I'm at the point that I would like a project. The main object of this build is to have a learning experience. The engine will need to be street able. I'm not looking to set any records at the drag strip but would like to take it to a race course like Mid Ohio and tear it up. To that point I would like to add a few accessories to add a few extra hp/tq. I don't really have a budget. At the same time, I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on an engine build.

Here are some things I am thinking about doing:

buy a 3.2 for a 3.0 swap
60k maintenance
I would really like to polish the intake to look like chrome

Things on my wish list that I would like to acquire at some point:
Big bore butterflies and ported intake
Under drive pulleys
Cams (not sure which kind to get)

So I would like your guys help and opinions on what direction I should go?

Additional questions if you have feedback:

Also I would like to know in order to achieve 250, 270, 300 or 330 whp, what would I need to add to the build?

What have you done on your builds that you would recommend or really liked?

 

[rubydist]

3.2 swap is the easiest way to significant torque/power increase, if you put 3.0 cams in it you gain 7.5% from the displacement.

refreshing a motor requires removing heads, cleaning up valves and combustion chambers, new valve seals, checking valve clearance, removing pistons, cleaning up or replacing rings, light hone on bores, new rod bearings, new head gaskets, and all the new seals and gaskets required for the 60k work. none of it is rocket science, and if you are careful and pay attention to details you should be able to do it.

unfortunately, if you polish the intake to look like chrome, the whole thing will then belong to Tom...

 

[Off Road SHO]

"ARE belong to Tom"

I could use a third polished intake, now that I think about it.

Tom

 

[Ishodu]

[B[/B]250 whp is not even easy to get NA. You pretty much have to add all bolt ons out there to a 3.2 unless you are doing nos or boost it's hard to go higher. I like the high comp motor it seems to offset the low end torque loss from cams.

 

[jimtash]

I like the DNJ rings and will use them over Hastings for a 3.2L build. Both are very similar in design except the DNJ's seem to require their end gaps filed while the Hastings usually don't. And the gaps on the Hastings approach the upper spec limit while the DNJ's allow me to gap them wherever I want to within specs.

 

[rubydist]

if you are doing any boost applications, you need top ring gaps larger than the factory spec.

 

[waffles]

Ok, because this sounds exactly like me one year ago I'll give ya a synopsis of what I did. I had a 3.2 sitting around and eventually I wanted to build it up. I first took everything apart and cleaned it up really well, I sent the heads off to the machine shop to have the decks checked for true-ness, it turns out they had to deck them (run the mating surface of the head through a special mill to get it dead flat (within a half thousandth), I also had them throw my heads through the parts washer for a cool $10 a head and they came out like new! Nothing will motivate you to get cracking more than shiny parts! Anywho I made sure to clean my valves using a brass wheel on a grinder, that got them to pretty much new condition. I then hand lapped the valves, because I could tell that they were not sealing very well (you can do this yourself for $10 and some time, or you can have a machine shop grind them to the exact spec, but honestly I think it's worth just taking your time and doing it the old fashioned way). After cleaning up all of the valve components I then ported and polished the heads, the gains from such a modification are disputed, but I thought "why the **** not" and spent many nights getting each port perfect and I'm happy I did. I also invested in some 3.0 cams, many people dispute the effectiveness of this upgrade, but I figured while I'm in their it's a pretty cheap modification, especially if you already have the cams. After assembling the heads I then turned to the shortblock. The very first thing I did after cleaning up the block is bought some micrometers and telescoping gauges to measure all of the specs on the block. While tedious and in 90% of cases unnecessary I didn't know the history of the engine I was working with and I would be ****** if I found out there was an issue that came up, just because I didn't spend some time and about $40 at Harbor freight on some measuring tools to fix the problem to begin with. My vote is to just blueprint the block. If nothing else you gain skill from such an exercise. I personally went with DNJ gaskets, because I'm a broke college kid, but I mad damn sure to get myself some Ford cam seals for a premium price, because I've heard many horror stories about those failing. If you have the money go with either OEM or fel-pro as I have yet to hear any sketchy stories about those brands, you may also want to snag some new head bolts as it's generally a good practice as they do stretch in tension. I went with some DNJ piston rings (I had to buy 2 sets because I snapped a ring on installation so if you snap one, you know who to call ) and filed them to within a thousandth of each other. Whether or not this extra effort to get them all perfect makes a huge difference is beyond me, but the way I see it, there shouldn't be a power imbalance, between cylinders. You certainly could go with Hastings, once again it came down to price for me. Rod bearings: Replace them. Main bearings: take a good look at them and ensure they are within spec via some elcheap-o plastiguage. The mains are a pain in the ass to replace as they are SUPER rare to be found in the STD spec, so you would need to go to a machine shop and things can get sketchy when you put any part from the bottom end of a SHO motor on a mill. This would be a great time to paint the block, intake, valve covers, ect, ect, and also a great time to yank out those rusty freeze plugs!

There is a lot of little steps to complete your goal, but so long as you have a good source and the determination you can do it.

Some good sources:
Shoforum
shoforum
https://www.facebook.com/tucker.grimley/media_set?set=a.1954062067885.55429.1732680692&type=3 I have documented a whole rebuild here^
http://www.youtube.com/user/Jafromobile this man knows his stuff
Factory service manual (the spec sheet is the most important thing you will read in your entire life, or at LEAST get a chiltons)
Automotive engine rebuilding, second edition (if you really want to take your time)
http://www.youtube.com/user/VeryTucker I have a few SHO how to vids
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2254469276/ the SHO owners club group
Google (the least useful of these sources)

The best thing you can do is take your time, don't rush to get things done! Double check your work, and above all act like a craftsman. The best way to do top quality work by yourself is to take great pride in your work.

If you have any questions fell free to shoot me a PM
-Waffles

 

[SHOtimer]

Paragraphs man, split your posts into paragraphs.

Doug

 

[waffles]

Paragraphs man, split your posts into paragraphs.

Doug

I would, but I just kind of babble and hope I get 1 or two good points across

 

[SHO_Mike]

What size/length bolts did you use to mount your engine to the stand? I have my own 3.2 project that I'm starting this weekend.

 

[waffles]

What size/length bolts did you use to mount your engine to the stand? I have my own 3.2 project that I'm starting this weekend.

You can use subframe bolts, but if I recall correctly they are M12X1.75X~100

 

[rubydist]

I used the bolts that hold the trans to the engine. they are the right size (of course) and the right length for the stand I have.

 

[SHO_Mike]

I would do that, but my bolts are currently in my car. Installed.