The Overheating Saga continues.

[Oz]

Ok, added to the list of things that have been done:

Swapped in a 180 T-Stat.
New fan.
Took out the radiator and back/front/sideways flushed it. No restrictions whatsoever.
Also reconnected the heatercore and let it warm, and drove it a bit. No change in operating temps. Still running between 210-230.

Drove to LA over the weekend and back. It was cold outside, fortunately, but even on uphill climbs, the car never went over 230.

The AC condenser has a bit of grit in it. Nothing major. Could that be a factor?

I think I may add a double core radiator soon.

By the way, the car is sold.....or spoken for. In about a month, it will be out of here and I will be down to just the Hulk. But I really would like to get to the bottom of this before it leaves my possesion.

Cheers, oz

 

[sdpatt]

How much grit is in the A/C condensor? If the air can't flow through the condensor, it sure can't get to the radiator.

 

[Oz]

Not that much, Nick looked at it and said it shouldnt be an issue. Some small pebbles, a few bent fins, etc. But thats what Im wondering. Ive given up on trying to pinpoint the problem, and am just replacing parts now. My AC system is charged.....do I need to get rid of the R12 before I can take off the condensor and clean it up?

Also, when the fan is on, I stuck my hand between the fan and the block, lots of air. Did seem to be any obstruction.

So, any ideas?
Thanks, oz

 

[SHOLOVER]

I was going through the same dilema til I finally had a tech hook it up to his scanner and it ran right up to 212 before the fans kicked on just like every one said so i have decided to install my temp gage and sender ala autometer and get a relay to switch the fans on at my discretion. have you had anyone do a chemical test to find exhaust in your coolant yet?

 

[jthomas68]

If you pull the a/c condensor,you have to discharge all the refrigerant,and possibly change the o rings depending of their condition.
Try disconnacting the coolant system is "sections" and blow compressed air thru the lines to check of any blockages.This is how i found the block in my a/c system.

 

[Oz]

I see. When you say lines........the upper and lower radiator hoses have been replaced already. What else am I looking for?

 

[jthomas68]

Try disconnection both hoses at the motor and blowing compressed air thru it.You know the hoses and radiator are good,so there may be something else along the coolant passage.

 

[rangerj]

Oz,

If cooling air flow is good, and exaust flow is not hindered (no plugged cats), and the thermostat is new, then that leaves the coolant flow, lean fuel/air mixture, and dragging brakes as the remaining possibilities. I do not think ignition timeing would be an issue. Scott?

Coolant flow could be restricted by a blockage, or a water pump that is not functioning properly.

A lean mixture could be caused by a vacuum leak.
There are 9+ hoses on the intake plenum that could be cracked. If the crack runs along the clamp it is hard to detect, especially if it is on the bottom, and/or on the back (firewall) side.

The emergency brake cables could be hanging up and not fully releasing the rear brakes. One or more of the calipers could have a piston hung up and "dragging" the brake(s). If it were just one the car would "pull" to that side!

All of the above assumes that you have ruled out a head gasket leak that could be putting exaust gas (air) into the cooling system.

Is there anything else that could be putting a "drag" on this engine, and causing it to run hot, something in the drive train maybe?

Have you done a reverse flush, or "back flush", of the cooling system? This means flushing the system in the reverse of the normal coolant flow.

I feel for you Oz. These are the times that try mens souls! No surrender, no retreat, and never say die! rangerj

 

[SHOZ123]

I added an additional cooler to the coolant lines of the oil cooler. Oil cooler coolant cooler
It is a hayden oil cooler. Coolant only flows though it when the t-stat is open so no over-cooling occurs.