tysonfrk101
New Member
Just wondering what you all think is the best suspension setup for a street car. No plans on taking the sho to the track. Thanks.
suspension set-up
- Thread starter tysonfrk101
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nothingtoseehere
SHO Member
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Sensa-trac/Eibach or Quikstruts will be just fine.
St Louis SHO
Rollin' coal
+1
Anything stock will suit your needs just fine.
Anything stock will suit your needs just fine.
38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
all new bushings for the control arms, tension rods, and get some aluminum subframe bushings, you might need the subframe repair kit made by moog or weld the strut rod recievers to the subframe because they like to break......
also take it to a shop and have them check it out, make sure the balljoints or tie rods aren't worn out... get a good alignment, too many places just set the toe and steering wheel straight, as this is what you will actually notice when driving the car, but what I do is print out the car measurements before and after I'm done aligning the car so the customer knows I adjusted everything that was out of specification, they can see night and day the work that was completed....
new struts/mounts/bearings
new swaybar endlinks, swaybar to body bushings
good tires
good brake upgrade, even a 11.6" upgrade is MINIMUM for a street SHO I'd say
also take it to a shop and have them check it out, make sure the balljoints or tie rods aren't worn out... get a good alignment, too many places just set the toe and steering wheel straight, as this is what you will actually notice when driving the car, but what I do is print out the car measurements before and after I'm done aligning the car so the customer knows I adjusted everything that was out of specification, they can see night and day the work that was completed....
new struts/mounts/bearings
new swaybar endlinks, swaybar to body bushings
good tires
good brake upgrade, even a 11.6" upgrade is MINIMUM for a street SHO I'd say
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SHOtime2511
CGP
aluminum subframe bushings make a huge diffrence.
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
sweet, going by everything you guys said i'm done setting up my suspension.
96 upgrade? check
bushings? check
Aluminum Subframe bushings? check
end links? check
inner and outer tie rod ends? check
new front LCAs with ball jonts? check
brand new eibachs and sensa-tracs? check and check
some things not listed
GTP adjustable rear control arms
H brace, Strut Tower bars and Subframe connectors (fairly cheap if you have access to a welder. SHO source sells a package with all three for a reasonable price)
New Strut Mounts
another thing I did was make sure all the bushings/endlinks/tie rod ends/ball joints are grease-able.
oh, and Kuhmo Ecstas are great for just street driving it so far.
96 upgrade? check
bushings? check
Aluminum Subframe bushings? check
end links? check
inner and outer tie rod ends? check
new front LCAs with ball jonts? check
brand new eibachs and sensa-tracs? check and check
some things not listed
GTP adjustable rear control arms
H brace, Strut Tower bars and Subframe connectors (fairly cheap if you have access to a welder. SHO source sells a package with all three for a reasonable price)
New Strut Mounts
another thing I did was make sure all the bushings/endlinks/tie rod ends/ball joints are grease-able.
oh, and Kuhmo Ecstas are great for just street driving it so far.
Shoaz
Studly dood
If you're not going to be autocrossing or taking it on a road course, all of that stuff is optional. Doesn't really do much on the street.
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
yeah, i got a little carried away. i really like how stiff my car feels with everything installed on it now. compared to the way it drove over a year ago.
really looking forward to having a little more acceleration and grip with good tires and some engine upgrading once i get through the end of this year. at that point in time my SHO will be 100% weekend fun ride. i've been thinking of taking it to an open track day or some sort of practice session. i'll probably be asking you about that when the time comes.
/hijack
thanks for pointing that out eric.
PS... i forgot to mention another advantage for having SFCs for street driving is that it takes the brunt of speed bump or driveway bashes.
really looking forward to having a little more acceleration and grip with good tires and some engine upgrading once i get through the end of this year. at that point in time my SHO will be 100% weekend fun ride. i've been thinking of taking it to an open track day or some sort of practice session. i'll probably be asking you about that when the time comes.
/hijack
thanks for pointing that out eric.
PS... i forgot to mention another advantage for having SFCs for street driving is that it takes the brunt of speed bump or driveway bashes.
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For a street car, no autocross, no racing - aluminum subframe bushings would be a mistake in my opinion. I had them on the green 95 mtx and would have taken them off if I hadn't sold the car. Significantly more harshness, slightly more noise, and no noticeable performance improvement for street driving. imho, save the $100 or spend it elsewhere.
nothingtoseehere
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ALSB are cheaper than Gen III rears new. I have them in my current SHO and the NHV is increased marginally. Had them in my old SHO, marginal increase.
If you need to replace worn SFBs, unless you get GenIII rears on the cheap, ALSBs are your best bet.
If you need to replace worn SFBs, unless you get GenIII rears on the cheap, ALSBs are your best bet.
SHOmethewayhome
BAD ROLE MODEL
i assume you never buy another pair of aluminum SFBs once you buy the first. i'm guessing they last.
No true. Some owners won't buy another set of ALFBs because they end up in the garbage due to the fact they are a piece of crap and not engineered correctly..... erm better phrasing would be "not engineered at all".
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Bob Gervais
Wut?
Negative. At least not on a Gen 1 or 2. The KYB's are simply too soft and allow too much bounce.
Bob Gervais
Wut?
Depends on the type you buy. The cup style, that are designed for the different front and rear subframe thicknesses are fine. Also, the ring style that FPS sells (sold? Not sure if Doug sells them anymore) are good too, because they include a shim to assure the body mounting point doesn't get "volcanoed".
Interested to know what you would consider a properly "engineered" ALSFB?
Interested to know what you would consider a properly "engineered" ALSFB?
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I would never consider using aluminum in that location, although I am guilty of running ALSB on my car for 50 miles many many years ago, before I knew better.
The subframe thickness is only 1/8th of an inch nominally, this is not accounting for rust and fatigue of a 16+ years. There have been a lot of subframe failures lately due to stress corrosion cracking, and a whole lot more to come. When you install solid mounts you speed up the process.
Properly modified/reinforced subframe(increased surface area for clamp up) for hockeypucks is the way to go.
Bob Gervais
Wut?
I'm guessing you're thinking about bimetal corrosion. Not a bad point at all, however many people have run them without having a problem with that. Quite a few have coated with grease, anti-seize, or some other form of corrosion inhibitor. Also depends on the aluminum used. As I'm sure you know, different types will corrode/cause bimetal corrosion faster than others. I'm pretty sure that the current style sold on Ebay on and off are machined from 6061T6.
Less than 1/8th, but I get your point. What we have to keep in mind when modifying these cars is that, yes, they are old enough to be prone to rust. If the subframe's that rusty, then it should be modified, repaired or replaced before ANY type of new bushing is installed. Blaming solid bushings for speeding up the process is a moot point on something that's facing iminent failure.
Or, start with a subframe that isn't a pile of shit to begin with.
Personally, I've run two types of SFB's. I had aluminum SFB's on my former 91, which was a DD for almost four years, including harsh NE winters. I had no problem with corrosion, but I did take necessary steps to make sure it didn't happen.
On my former 93, and now my present 92, I have Gen 3 rear SFB's on all four corners. Again, haven't had a problem, but I will be installing ALSFB's when I do the Gen 3 subframe this winter.
To be honest, I didn't notice a difference at all in NVH when I had them in my 91. I did, however, notice a slight difference in turn-in reaction and overall feel of the car.
Less than 1/8th, but I get your point. What we have to keep in mind when modifying these cars is that, yes, they are old enough to be prone to rust. If the subframe's that rusty, then it should be modified, repaired or replaced before ANY type of new bushing is installed. Blaming solid bushings for speeding up the process is a moot point on something that's facing iminent failure.
Properly modified/reinforced subframe(increased surface area for clamp up) for hockeypucks is the way to go.
Or, start with a subframe that isn't a pile of shit to begin with.
Personally, I've run two types of SFB's. I had aluminum SFB's on my former 91, which was a DD for almost four years, including harsh NE winters. I had no problem with corrosion, but I did take necessary steps to make sure it didn't happen.
On my former 93, and now my present 92, I have Gen 3 rear SFB's on all four corners. Again, haven't had a problem, but I will be installing ALSFB's when I do the Gen 3 subframe this winter.
To be honest, I didn't notice a difference at all in NVH when I had them in my 91. I did, however, notice a slight difference in turn-in reaction and overall feel of the car.
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K-Dawg
SHO Member
I would never consider using aluminum in that location, although I am guilty of running ALSB on my car for 50 miles many many years ago, before I knew better.
The subframe thickness is only 1/8th of an inch nominally, this is not accounting for rust and fatigue of a 16+ years. There have been a lot of subframe failures lately due to stress corrosion cracking, and a whole lot more to come. When you install solid mounts you speed up the process.
Properly modified/reinforced subframe(increased surface area for clamp up) for hockeypucks is the way to go.
Aluminum subframe bushings are far superior to any of the hockeypuck designs that I've seen. Thousands of SHOs with aluminum subframe bushings have proven that they work just fine.
