Suspension Redo

[MOSHO92]

Within the next couple of weeks i should have the money to fix my ugly suspension. I just need some advice as to things i should check/replace as preventative maintanace while im paying for the labor. My plan is for Koni adjustables, and Ebiach springs. Has anyone had any experience with these brands (good or bad)? One last thing, what is everyone's experience with SHOSHOP. I'm looking at almost $1K from ShoShop for the springs and struts alone (then there is shipping).

 

[LaTechSHO]

click here for all the information you could ever want about this subject..

Louis

<small>[ January 24, 2003, 10:44 PM: Message edited by: lb-sho ]</small>

 

[rlw001]

I don't think he was trying to dis you, but this subject has been covered many times. The search tool is great for gathering info, I use it all the time.

Below is what I replaced when I installed my Tokico/Eibachs. All of this stuff is available from SHO Nut.

FORD:
Description/Part Number
Rear Strut Washers/N804-232-S100
Front Strut Spacers/F3DZ-18A027-A
Spring Sleeve/E6DZ-5K829-A
Front Upper Strut Mount/AD-931-A F1DZ-18183-BA
Front Strut Bearing/F4DZ-3B455-A
Strut Tower Nuts/03-826-S36
Front Strut install kit/AD-263 E8DZ-18198-AA
Rear Strut install kit/AD-940 E6DZ-18198-BA
Rear Upper Strut Mount/F3DZ-18192-B

MOOG:
Control Arm Bushings/12698
Front: HB1591K (to arm)
HB1592K (to frame)
Rear: HB1593K (to frame)
HB1594K (to spindle)
Eccentric Bushing Kit/K8627


Also, are you aware you have to modify the original struts to hold the KONI cartridges?

I hope this gets you in right direction.

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: rlw001 ]</small>

 

[LaTechSHO]

i was in fact NOT trying to dis you, but point you in the direction of more information than you can handle on this subject.....

this post wouldn't even come CLOSE to having the amount of opinions and info that the search would pull up if it were 8 pages long.......


Louis

 

[gdsqdcr]

I see you are from Modesto, CA.
First things first, there are a couple of things that you should check out.

1. www.shonutperformance.com
2. Nick Chrimes, excellent mechanic located in San Jose, CA. Does great work and used to sell for SHONUT performance.
3. www.baysho.org, there email list, the website isnt all that ...

Now as for the Koni/Eibach setup. That is an awesome set up. (Check my sig) I have been running on them for ~20K miles now. Great set up with a lot of flexibility for the Bay Area roads. Prior to this, my other SHO ran Koni's as well. I ran on them for 50-60K before I got rid of that one.

SHO SHOP. I have had some good experiences and some bad experiences (sorry Tom if you are reading this!). Lately it has been good. My biggest issue with them is that it takes a while to get what you need sometimes. SHONUT, can get it quicker, sometimes.

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

The combo you picked should work excellent! Get the hardware and expendables that Bob put in his post to do the job. You do know that you need the old strut housings to install the Koni's, right? Oh Bob covered that also. The only other choices that I see are the bushings, Moog TPR's or Energy Urethane.

<small>[ January 27, 2003, 05:30 AM: Message edited by: NWGRN94MTX ]</small>

 

[MOSHO92]

Whoa, nor was i trying to dis you. Sorry for this misunderstanding. I merly meant that i had searched and come up with more info than i could need. I just get a little bit jittery about spending $1,500 and wanted to see if there were any new red flags out there. Thanks for the concern, and for the info about baysho.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

www.shox.com should have the cheapest price for Konis. YOu need to supply them with your build date if you have a 92, and also have to see if your rear struts have been replaced or not. summit racing I think has the cheapest price on eibachs, but I'm not sure on that one anymore. The suspension market changes frequently. At the very least get new pinch bolts for the knuckle to strut and knuckle to ball joint unions, new rear strut mounts, new rear endlinks, new rear swaybar bushings, and check on the condition of your strut rod bushings.

 

[Dave Ladely]

Tokico struts work well, too, with Eibach. In fact, Eibach technical support recommended them to me. Also, be sure to replace bushings with poly, really does make the car feel new again for not much money. I also replaced the poor quality stock spring isolators with Energy Suspension urethane ones. Need to measure your spring ends before ordering.
Really helps insulate from small road irregularities.
I bought greaseable tie rod ends and control arms.
You will find the new suspension wont be harsh, will feel more controlled, encourages confidence in driving, will last and last.

 

[MOSHO92]

well, thanks for all your help. I went with the tokico and Eibach setup. sounds like it should work out pretty good. I get it put in on tuesday...i will let everybody know. the only other parts i am replacing at the same time are the front strut bearings. I think everything else can be replaced without having to take apart the suspension. I thank everybody for the sugestions but if i followed all the great advice on this forum i would be out about 120K. thanks again, ill keep you posted as to how they work for me.

 

[Dave Ladely]

I disassembled the front strut bearings (easy, just pry gently) and repacked them with Redline synthetic grease. The difference was like night and day in smoothness, and they will really last!

 

[MOSHO92]

You disasembled the old bearings and re-packed them? Or did you do this with the new ones?

 

[Dave Ladely]

I disassembled the new ones, though I could also have just disassembled the old ones, checked the balls out, cleaned everything, applied synthetic grease, and reassembled it. I really packed in the Red Line grease, so it oozed out a bit when being reassembled. Quite a difference, smoother, quieter, and I am sure synthetic Red Line is a significant improvement over what was in there, resulting in longer life.

 

[MOSHO92]

OK they are in! New ride!!! They work great. I notice the diference most during acceleration and braking. The car also rides firmer and just feels more connected .
Only bad part is that when he replaced the strut bearings it did not fix the awful grinding rubbing sound comming from each side. Does anybody have any ideas? The sound is not patterned or in any certain interval. Just sounds like poping when i turn the wheel.

 

[MOSHO92]

So, I took some advise from a certain wise member and did an extensive search. Turns out that my problem is exactly descibed as a problem with the upper spring pad being worn out. Wow! just my luck that i paid 300 bucks yesterday to get the suspension ripped out and put back together, now i get to do it again!!! (It will be a little cheaper because it is only the front)
Shit! this is exactly what i was trying to avoid!

One last thing, maybee it is because my old springs were sagging but my car doesnt look any lower to me.

Thanks for everybodys help (and for listening to my venting)

 

[Dave Ladely]

yes, also best to replace the stock worn out spring isolators with new urethane ones from Energy suspension. they look like doughnuts, fit on the spring ends. I used part of a set for Mustangs. You have to measure the spring ends then order.
Also, Ford offers spacers for under the strut bearings as a fix for rubbing, I bought two, but did not need them as the isolators took care of the problem, and also helped when going over pavement gaps, etc.

 

[Mongo]

Dave,

Thanks for your pointed comments on the spring "rubbers": they have saved many members from expensive mistakes.

<small>[ May 04, 2003, 12:15 AM: Message edited by: Mongo ]</small>

 

[MOSHO92]

Hey guys I cant get those isolators because that would mean 50 bucks twice (once to measure, once to install) so i think ill just put on the spacers i ordered from shonutperformance.
One other thing..... I have a new noise now that my springs/struts are on. Whenever i make a LEFT turn i hear a moaning (almost sounds like rubbing, or possibly a reverberation humm) from the passenger wheel well. I looked hard for rub spots and couldnt find any. The sound isnt from the steering pump. I am very worried as it is quite loud. Any ideas?

 

[Dave Ladely]

YOu might ask the spring manufacturer what the spring measurements are across the ends. The urethane isolators do make a big difference as they insulate the springs from direct metal contact and work better than the stock ones.

 

[ManySHOs]

I don't know if you bought the konis and eibachs yet, but 1K is very steep for that setup. I set up a permanent group buy with www.shox.com via Daryl Larkin over there a long time ago. They are also offering free shipping on koni's right now.

I paid $108 for each Koni and $189 for the set of Eibachs.

Ian