Suggestions for 60K Service

[SHOpar]

I think it's time for my SHO's second 60K service, as I'm right at 150K. I don't have any real issues other than a couple small oil leaks, but the first service was done ten years ago, right at 60K, and nothing has been touched since. I have to say, 100K miles and 10 years of service isn't too bad of a maintenance plan.

Since I only want to do this job once, I plan on replacing pretty much every wear item I can, and I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice.

My first question is should I try to stick with Motorcraft parts where I can, particularly with the plugs and wires? I remember when I did the first 60K on the car, that was everyone's recommendation. I know the cost for OEM wires is ridiculous, but if buying them means I get another 10 years of service out of the car without touching them or dealing with plug well seal issues, I will.

Should I replace the timing belt tensioner? I know the accessory belt idler pulleys were replaced at my last 60K because they both were making noise, but I can't recall replacing the timing belt tensioner. It's not making any noise right now, but if they are a common failure item, I'll replace it.

As far as water pumps go, should I pony up for a complete new pump or am I fine just buying a new nose (it looks like SHO Source has new noses that will save $100 versus a complete kit)?

I have some leftover cam seals and various other gaskets from a top end master kit I bought for the first 60K. Do you think I could use these, or do I run the risk of them having dried out and not sealing properly?

I'm guessing SHO Source is the best place to rent a valve adjustment kit, true? Their website didn't have too many details, but I'm assuming it includes everything I'll need for the valve adjustment, and if I have any non-serviceable shims, they'll charge me when I return the kit?

Are there any aftermarket 60K parts I should steer clear of? I don't want to save a couple bucks on a part, only to have to tear everything apart to replace it in a matter of months.

Anything else I should think about doing while I have everything torn apart?

Thanks guys! :thankyou:

 

[luigisho]

Now is the time to do the rod bearings and oil pan gasket.

 

[SHOpar]

Now is the time to do the rod bearings and oil pan gasket.

Rod bearings were done at probably around 80K due to some rattling at start-up. It's been nice and quiet ever since, so I wasn't going to bother unless they really do wear out that quickly.

I was planning on replacing the oil pan gasket again, since I'm pretty sure that's the source of one of my leaks. It's been so long since I did it, but I'm thinking I have to drop the Y-pipe, correct?

Thanks!

 

[LOUDSHO92]

The shim kit comes with everything to do a valve adjustment.

 

[Bob Gervais]

I think it's time for my SHO's second 60K service, as I'm right at 150K. I don't have any real issues other than a couple small oil leaks, but the first service was done ten years ago, right at 60K, and nothing has been touched since. I have to say, 100K miles and 10 years of service isn't too bad of a maintenance plan.

Since I only want to do this job once, I plan on replacing pretty much every wear item I can, and I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice.

My first question is should I try to stick with Motorcraft parts where I can, particularly with the plugs and wires? I remember when I did the first 60K on the car, that was everyone's recommendation. I know the cost for OEM wires is ridiculous, but if buying them means I get another 10 years of service out of the car without touching them or dealing with plug well seal issues, I will.

Should I replace the timing belt tensioner? I know the accessory belt idler pulleys were replaced at my last 60K because they both were making noise, but I can't recall replacing the timing belt tensioner. It's not making any noise right now, but if they are a common failure item, I'll replace it.

As far as water pumps go, should I pony up for a complete new pump or am I fine just buying a new nose (it looks like SHO Source has new noses that will save $100 versus a complete kit)?

I have some leftover cam seals and various other gaskets from a top end master kit I bought for the first 60K. Do you think I could use these, or do I run the risk of them having dried out and not sealing properly?

I'm guessing SHO Source is the best place to rent a valve adjustment kit, true? Their website didn't have too many details, but I'm assuming it includes everything I'll need for the valve adjustment, and if I have any non-serviceable shims, they'll charge me when I return the kit?

Are there any aftermarket 60K parts I should steer clear of? I don't want to save a couple bucks on a part, only to have to tear everything apart to replace it in a matter of months.

Anything else I should think about doing while I have everything torn apart?

Thanks guys! :thankyou:

Wow, you've gotten some good service out of that car!

For the water pump, you'll be fine with replacing just the pump itself.

The timing belt idler bearing seem to dry out after a while. Even if yours isn't making noise, it's not a bad idea to either replace it, or repack the bearing by popping the dust shields off and greasing the bearing.

I'd inspect those cam seals that you have. If they were stored properly, they shouldn't be dry rotted. If they're not hardened, but soft and pliable, they'll be good to use. Don't forget the crank seal also!

For plugs and wires, go for either Motorcraft or Autolite double platinum plugs, and while the Motorcraft wires are pricey, you've gotten ten years out of this set. May as well stick with them. I've used a few different brands, such as AC Delco, Bosch, and Taylor. I wasn't too impressed with Taylor wires. Out of three cars I've worked on that had them, two sets had end terminals that were coming off, or stayed on the plug when I pulled them off. AC Delco and Bosch work just fine, but I haven't managed to get more than three years or so out of a set.

You didn't mention valve cover gaskets, but you should be fine re-using your old ones. Clean them up with a rag soaked with some brake cleaner, and very lightly, apply some gray RTV to the channels in the valve cover that hold the gasket, and right before installation, lightly coat the gasket surface with RTV. I use an acid brush to apply the RTV, keeps things neat.

Since your rod bearings were already replaced, they may not need it. If you weren't planning on re-sealing the oil pan, I'd say don't worry about them. But, if you're going to drop the pan, you may want to have a set on hand. Pull a rod bearing cap and check them, replace if needed.

To drop the oil pan, you'll need to remove the y-pipe.

Good luck!

 

[itwonder]

Having installed a new (they are actually rebuilt) water pump "nose" and having it leak in less than 5,000 miles, I recommend a brand new pump. The labor to change it is significant, and you don't want to do it twice. Others have used the rebuilt pumps with no problem.