Sudden Popping exhaust and power loss

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Ksoder

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Do you have access to a second pair of hands? If you can create the noise above idle in park, someone can push the go pedal while you try to isolate the noise if it's not possible to do so by manually operating the throttle.i.e. if you need to crawl around the engine bay or under the car. This would only really help with vacuum leaks in a hose or exhaust.
I posted a picture on the form last night I have a little white plastic piece that you can hear buzzing really loudly but I don't remember hearing before, do you have any idea what it is? Or should I get a better picture?




Also, even though the previous owner cut off the Mufflers which I intend on replacing, I can still hear the fuel pump buzzing really loudly at idle, is it a bad fuel pump possibly? I can get a second pair of hands if I need them
 

Ksoder

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Heres a possibly better audio clip I just uploaded as well.

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zoomlater

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If you can get a fuel gauge on it when at idle and when accelerating, that would help tell us what the fuel pump is doing. I think you can rent one if you don't have one. I have used one with an extension and left the hood not fully latched down and run the hose and gauge through the gap near the windshield wiper.
 

zoomlater

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Heres a possibly better audio clip I just uploaded as well.

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is that the popping sound at the end? it sounds like more the type of muffler you have on there. So it didn't make that sound before?
 

Ksoder

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This shows the extreme contrast between it happening and it clearing up.

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zoomlater

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I had a car that was missing between 1500 to 2500 rpm, but would run fine on wide open throttle. No codes, but the fuel pressure regulator was way over the normal 35 to 40 psi. The regulator was replaced and known good (but used) OEM wires were installed and it cleared up 95 percent of the issues.

Did you find out what brand wires you put on?
 

rubydist

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Lastly, can someone identify this white thing for me? Its creating an audible buzzing sound as my engines running... Its the thing that the end of my hose clamp is "pointing" at
d3749932d266fd1dba018de83986b62e.jpg


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The white connector in the center of the photo is on the temperature sender. If that is not working right, the pcm will not know the coolant temperature, and will either think the engine is cold all the time, or warm all the time - either of which will not be good for having it run right.
 

Ksoder

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The white connector in the center of the photo is on the temperature sender. If that is not working right, the pcm will not know the coolant temperature, and will either think the engine is cold all the time, or warm all the time - either of which will not be good for having it run right.
Would it be causing the problems im having? Also, check out the video links if you havn't yet to hear what im trying to describe

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rubydist

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ditch the code reader and pull the codes by counting the flashes on the check engine light. tell us what they are now.
 

Ksoder

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Just opened my radiator after driving for a little bit (during the drive, my needle was below C for a while, then pretty quickly shot up to the O in normal when I was going slowly then jumped back down below the L once I got on it) and this is what I was greeted with in my radiator?1935c98af1456b587f6939f5334e03de
25d2a36feb13bcdf964953147e047247.jpg


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zoomlater

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I'm guessing your coolant hasn't been changed in awhile. I would do a couple of flushes and then refill and drive it a bit and then check it again
 

luigisho

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That's super funky. Agree with several flushes. I'd hate to see that trapped in a heater core. Flush, Flush, Flush with inert water and see what happens after that. I would also check out that coolant sensor you were asking about as it gets drained.
 

Ksoder

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Any recomendations as to how I should flush it? And do you think a bad coolant temp sensor could be doing this?

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luigisho

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A few places for ideas.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/fluid-flushing-time.113008/#post-1227234

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/prestone-flush-kit-adapter.113565/#post-1233475

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/8-year-old-antifreeze-and-really-old-oil.120608/

Your radiator should have a drain at the bottom but if it's old it may be pretty corroded. I would try and open it from there, drain, refill with water and run, repeat until it gets clean and then make sure the right mix is in there. Not sure if there is sealer additive in there but more likely is the fluid is expired and broken down and/or rust in the fluid. Just keep flushing and get some clean fluid in there.
 

sperold

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That is the result of running a water only coolant for a long while.

Although it is never a good idea to disturb the heater core, it would be a good idea to back-flush your heater core once you have flushed your system. If you get lots of heat out of the heater system, ignore this.
 

Ksoder

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Howdy all, I just started another post about my power steering rack but I came back here because I realized I forgot to comment on what happened...



So the rear o2 sensor kept backing out so I basically put a dab of high temp thread locker on it and once the computer sorted itself out, there hasnt been another problem since, thanks

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