Subframe replacement

[DrivinFast]

Hey I have popping noises coming from my suspension. WHen I went underthe car my rear subframe mount is cracked around the cup that holds the bushing. Is there anyone in the NY Hudson Valley or upstate area who can help me replace it? I already have the subframe.

If I cant find someone, how hard is this to do myself? What do I need to remove? how many bolts need to be removed? is there a guide for this? I can brace the engine from the top, This car is a 1995 MTX SHO.

 

[kevinspann]

Not many bolts really, but you have to support the engine for sure.

Remove the y-pipe (15mm nuts on the exhaust studs, 18mm spring bolts at the back of it)

Drop the shifter (10mm bolt and nut, and a 19mm I think bolt)

2 steering rack nuts (24mm)

2 Motor mount nuts (21mm)

2 transmission mount bolts (15mm)

Power steering cooler and cruise module at the front (2 8mm bolts)

4 Subframe to body bolts (18mm), and the Pinch bolts that hold the knuckle to the lower control arm.


Then it should come out....few hours work if it isn't all rusty, painful if everything breaks, like the exhaust studs and subframe bolts. Good luck...

 

[DrivinFast]

ok, doesnt sound too bad. How much torq to tighten the subframe bolts? How do I know if its too tight? My exhaust isnt welded together just clamped. If I take out the cats from the Y pip since they slide right out when the clamps are removed. Do I still need to remove the exhaust manifold from the engine?

 

[kevinspann]

In that case, you may not have to. All you need is room to get the rear of the subframe out.

What kind of subframe bushings do you have?

 

[DrivinFast]

They are the rubber stock type. Not sure how old they are. I would like to get new ones but I dont think thats possible. Even if I use the Gen 4 ones, I dont think they make them any more do they? The ones Ive seen were like $400 for the set and thats an insane price for some rubber.

 

[kevinspann]

Dorman makes them, I think they are about $16 each on rockauto.com

You'd need 4 rear ones. They even come with new bolts.

I think I torqued mine to around 80 ft/lbs.

 

[intimdatr]

I have the gen 4 ones and think they made a huge difference in the car. You have to do a little grinding to get the fit on the subframe, i wanna say two little slots, but totally worth it in my book.

 

[jayro]

Or go with the Aluminium ones.

 

[DrivinFast]

Ok so gen4 bushings it is. Aluminum is out of the question. I don't want all of that stiffness and vibration.

 

[DrivinFast]

Also I noticed there is only one part I could attach the engin support bracket tool. Its an eye on the left passenger side on the front of the engine but I don't see the rear eye support. Whenre am I supposed to wrap the chain aroun to support the right rear drivers side of the engine?

 

[sperold]

The exhaust manifolds stay on the engine, and the rear one can be your rear support point.
There is a lot of information on changing the subframe to a Gen3 or even newer Taurus Subframe on this forum (see titles in performance updates below this thread). I have no first hand infomation, but it is supposed to be one of the best upgrades you can do, and with the newer parts, great for future parts availability. People swap them when their original subframe is still good, so that says something.

 

[Mrhappytuzi]

There is like 0 noticeable Vibration/Noise with having aluminum subframe bushings..

 

[rubydist]

There is like 0 noticeable Vibration/Noise with having aluminum subframe bushings..

I disagree completely. There is a marked increase in nvh with the aluminum subframe bushings.

The Gen3 rear sfb in all locations is a much better choice for those of us who are aware of the nvh difference.

 

[DrivinFast]

Id like to upgrade the subframe but cant afford that option right now. Thanks a bunch for all the helpful posts! Im going to go at this full on this weekend!

 

[DrivinFast]

Im stumped. I started prepping the replacment subframe. I removed the old bushings. The two front ones were easy to remove since they were held in with 3 nuts on the little studs. But the rear subframe mounts have this rubber thats stuck ontop. How to I remove that? I removes the bult, the metal circle and the bottom bushing but the top ones are rally stuck on. Are those permanant?