subframe or Rack

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Brent94sho

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I just replaced my 94 sho atx's lower right control arm and the right inner tie rod end, due to VERY loose steering. That did not solve my problem, it is still very loose, and the car wants to get away from me in turns even if the turn is only at 10mph, So I was thinking subframe or Rack and Pinion, any feedback would be awesome, THANKS!

Brent
 

1993MTXSHO

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subframe bushings, inner tie rods, broken subframe are all possibilities
 

boat

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As I see that you figured out the problem of being shot subframe bushings. :) I would think you would want to replace the LCA's in pairs as well as the inner tierod ends. Hmmm... To anyone who wants to respond, does this make sense?? Maybe I am just thinkin in pairs, anything strut related you do in pairs, not sure if that applies here, tho. Oh well, that was how I did mine, just a thought. Although I do understand if $$ is tight, been there, still am.. kinda..


I just replaced my 94 sho atx's lower right control arm and the right inner tie rod end, due to VERY loose steering. That did not solve my problem, it is still very loose, and the car wants to get away from me in turns even if the turn is only at 10mph, So I was thinking subframe or Rack and Pinion, any feedback would be awesome, THANKS!

Brent
 

Speedy_91_SHO

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I like to think in pairs too. If one side went bad, then why wouldnt the other side be going bad too?

Checking suspension:(with wheels in air)

Tie rods- grab wheel at 3 & 9 move wheel side to side. If there is play one or both of the tie rods is more than likely bad. You can isolate the tie rods by grabbing the inner itself and pulling in and out on it.(If you do the tire method and have play, but isolate the inner and have no play then the outer is bad).

Control arm/ball joint - Put a bar under tire and pull up kind of gently and it wont take much movement to tell. Pay attention, you have to notice ball joint movement aside from normal wheel/suspension movement. if there is a clunk moise, the ball joint is bad.

Wheel bearing - Wheel bearing can be kind of tricky if the ball joint is bad. It is easiest if you grab at 6 & 12 and mainly pull out on 12. I ahve had a bearing seem fine until the axle nut was loosened, then noticed it was shot.

Steering rack - pull the boot that is on the end of the rack off if fluid comes out, the rack is bad.(how bad it is depends on how much fluid)

If you have a better way then so be it, but this is how I do it

You say the car "wants to get away from you" is the steering wheel cocked at all when going straight? when is the last time you had an alignment done or checked?
 
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Brent94sho

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Wow Thank you alot Speedy the rack was bad too heh Subframe and the rack this should be a GREAT! WEEKEND! I will let you guys know the new swear words I come up with after doing this project :omgsho:

Brent
 

LeddZepp8687

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It really shouldnt be a big deal replacing the rack and subframe bushings if you have an engine supporter. I dropped my subframe completely in a little over an hour. It really isnt difficult IMO. Just raise the motor lightly, support it and drop the subframe out without the knuckles and struts. Makes bushing replacment a breeze and the rack a thousand times easier. I would recommend picking up some power steering pressure or return hoses if they have developed any kind of leaks since now will be the time to replace them with the rack being removed and all.
 

Speedy_91_SHO

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I agree with the above, but want to add to it. You obviously live in a rust prone area, so be prepared for it and have some penetrant handy. Spray the lines on the rack down first. Dont use a regular open end wrench on the line ends, you will more than likely strip them and that is no fun. Get proper line wrenches. Biggest thing and my biggest pet peeve....Do it once and do it right. Having the subframe out makes A LOT of other jobs/issues easier to work on/take care of. If you want any more info feel free to PM me.
 
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