Subframe bushings and sway bar replacement.

[PastaPirate13]

So I'm having a bit of trouble with these subframe bushings and sway bars. This will be my first time doing these things so it's a little frustrating and intimidating given my lack of experience and the fact that I don't have access to a lift. I've read the subframe bushing replacement sticky thread but that was a bit vague, and this repair manual I got is almost useless. I also broke the stud off the end of what I assume to be the rear endlink and can't find the replacement on sho source. Has anyone written a more detailed guide for this?

 

[zoomlater]

You can buy replacement endlinks from Rockauto, Napa, etc. If they snapped off, you are better off replacing both of them.

 

[Jim Frye]

For subframe bushings use Dorman 924012 (these are 1996 bushings) available from Rockauto.

 

[Jim Frye]

You'll need 4 of the 924012, one for each corner.

 

[PastaPirate13]

You'll need 4 of the 924012, one for each corner.

I got the new bushings, my issue is getting the old bushings out. I'm not entirely sure what all I need to do to get the subframe loose.

 

[luigisho]

With the rust under there you are going to need long cheater pipes or breaker bars (or air tools) to get those subframe bolts off. zoomlater is correct, you can find endlinks anywhere. You can wrestle with it or tap it or cut the rod again and tap it up and out the top or bottom. It's just a rod with 4 bushings and a nut on each end to hold it in place.

For cheater pipe I just go to the plumbing area of the lowes/home depot and get a steel pipe about 4 feet long and slide it over a breaker bar or ratchet. Leverage by hand. It can be a real bitch

So pick a 4-6 ft one of these
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-Pipe-1-2-in-x-48-in-150-PSI-Galvanized-Pipe/1000227979

Breaker bar looks like this

https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/breaker-bar-tool/p/great-neck-1-2in-drive-18in-breaker-bar/4261_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:15062016444&gclid=CjwKCAjwxOCRBhA8EiwA0X8hi_PjWtLqI71ODScwLTrqKV4DMCHbaqIcp5EgPEvXup5CFv8w54rFLRoC2nUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[zoomlater]

here is a write up from the Sho Phoenix project, I have not tried it as I was going to swap mine out during a clutch job

SHO Phoenix Project

 

[PastaPirate13]

I'm also considering replacing these springs and struts while I'm at it, and I've been looking at the KYB front and rear kit from rock auto.

 

[zoomlater]

https://shosource.com/products/ols/products/rear-endlink-set-rod-style-86-07

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Re subframe bushings: do the two front bushings first while leaving the rears tight so that the subframe doesn't have a chance to shift which would throw off your alignment. Remove one of the front bolts, but only loosen the other to enable the subframe to drop sufficiently to be able to get the bushing out. Once you have the main 18mm bolt out, there are four 10mm nuts holding the top half of the bushing in place that you also have to remove. Repeat for the other front bushing. Then torque the new fronts to 85 ft. lb. Repeat on the rears.

 

[luigisho]

I'm also considering replacing these springs and struts while I'm at it, and I've been looking at the KYB front and rear kit from rock auto.

If you have the money and the time, a fresh suspension is a noticeable improvement. For springs and struts you have to do your homework of spring rates and strut capabilities. I like KYB in general as far as mass produced general replacement parts. I used to like Monroe but they have gotten considerably cheaper in quality over many years. Consider strut mounts and the rubber that goes on the spring perch on the strut, sway bar bushings and tension strut rod bushings if they are old.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

DO NOT install quick struts from KYB or anyone else if you don't want your car to wallow like a Cadillac. I've driven a couple of SHOs with quick struts, and that's how they felt. Replaced the springs with stock in one case, Eibachs in the other.

These are designed for the regular Taurus with springs that are softer than the SHO. By all means buy them, but then transfer your existing springs over. As a point of fiscal comparison, SHO Source sells 4 Excel-Gs for $290 + tax and shipping, but that wouldn't include the top and bottom hardware that would come with quick struts.

Here's the skinny on spring rates. Note how much softer the Taurus springs are:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Forgot to explain the pic of springs in my post above. Stock spring on the left, quick strut spring on the right. Note how much taller the right one is, and therefore how much it gets compressed when installed.

 

[thunder1200]

No specific guidance but there are two mandatory tools. [1] A MAPP torch - heat is simply magical on seized nuts/bolts and insert all warnings of gas tanks and setting stuff on fire here. [2] A cheater bar. I have a 3'-4' piece of a station wagon rooftop carrier that slips over the handle of my 1/2 breaker bar - visit your local hardware store for both.

An optional tool is a air compressor and impact air driver.

DAve

 

[BaySHO Performance]

For an extension to a breaker bar, I use a 3 foot length of 2" diameter steel pipe from a hardware store.