Subframe bushing installation

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Bigjoey71

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Hey guys,
I recently purchased some SFB and now i need to get them in. What kind of process is this? I went to a few local shops and they seemed clueless on what they were and how to do it. I was hoping to shed some light on the subject for them. Some of the shops said they would do it, but it would be like 6.5 hours, is that right?? I didnt think that it would be such an expensive installation. Any help on how it is done and how much i am looking to spend would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
 

220ksho

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I you have the right tools, it's not a 6 hour job. The last set of bushings I did took about 2 hours. I had to use a propane torch and an impact wrench to heat remove the bolts. If the recall has been done, it's easier because you don't have to cut the floor pan.

The procedure is pretty straight forward. Loosen all four of them a few turns. Support the front subrame with a jack. Remove the two front subrame bolts. Lower the front with the jack a few inches to access the bushings and get them out. Install new bushings and bolts. Repeat for rear bushings.

Jeff Grondin (michigan)
 

sdpatt

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If you have a 3.0L, you will need to disconnect the rear plug on the DIS module due to the interference with the roll damper bracket when you drop the rear subframe. The bolts have 18mm heads and should be torqued to 75 lb-ft. If you are in the rust belt, the new bolts and nut brackets of the recall kit may be necessary. It may also require harsher measures to get the old bolts out. Not being exposed to the road salt, the bolts on my car came loose with a good tug on the wrench. Rust is a bad thing.
 

Bigjoey71

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Thanks for the replies guys!
I have an ATX, so i have the 3.2. I purchased two sets of the recall kit from ShoShop. Are the recall kits for the front or the rear? Is there an easy way to see if the car has had the recall? Right now, my bushings are falling through, so i bought the aluminums to replace them. If it hasn't been done, will the dealership do it? If they won't, will the shop be able to do it?
Thanks guys,
Joe
 

AutoXSHO

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Like Scott says rust is bad. The job isn't too hard with no rust. My car was cake. I didn't have to disconnect the DIS on my car (3.0L) but it's probably not a bad idea to do so. Took me no time at all once I learned the tricks.

FYI, the SHOnut Delrin bushings I installed on the neighbor's car a couple weeks ago are a VERY tight fit. Be prepared to file a chamfer on the leading edge to get them to fit. Hopefully the aluminum ones are a little better.

The job is easy so long as the recall has been done and the front nuts aren't too rusty. My neighbor's were so bad we broke the retaining ears in the front. Ended up having to cut the bolt with a Sawzall, then using a recall kit nut in the front, holding it with a wrench (with the horns removed). It was not easy in his case. It took us the better part of two days to get them done.

I doubt a Ford dealer or a shop would do the job unless they know you, or it's a reputable speed shop.

John V
 

jheer

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I'm the neighbor that John V. helped with the Delrin subframe bushings two weekends ago (I have a rusty 94 SHO ATX). It took us almost two days to finish the job, but we started late on Friday afternoon and ran into the gawd-awful rust on the front two bolts. We sort of "stripped" the driver's side front bolt by shearing the retaining ears of the nut. We gave up for the night (Friday), and then John V. resumed Saturday morning while I attended to my 4-year old son.

Eventually, through massive rain downpours and wind gusts, and falling temperatures, and even some snow by the day's end, John V. got my Delrin SFB's in at all four corners of the subframe. This was on wet pavement in my backyard, next to a stopped up stormsewer drain. Seriously difficult conditions. Thanks, again JV!!

Not an easy job when the car has spent any time in the rust-belt.
 

Bigjoey71

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Thanks for all of the help guys,
This is an update for all of those that are interested. I called a shop today and asked if they could do the install. They said yes and to bring the car over. To make a long story short, it took an hour and i was charged $60. Not bad at all. The car feels great and no more clunking when i take off. The price was much more reasonable than the 6.5 hours+ that i was quoted from midas.
Joe
 

CTOESHO

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Hey Bigjoey71, where did you have them done at? I was gonna take my Aluminum SFB's, Subframe connectors, 24/26mm sway bars to Performance Plus to have them done. But if this place can do them, it would save me the 100 mile hike to PP. Thanks.
 

Bigjoey71

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CTOESHO,
I am down at school right now at ISU in normal, IL. It might be more of a hike for you to come down here to get it done. I took it to Dungey's Automotive in town here. There is a place in Libertyville that can do it though. Its called TriPower Automotive. You can find their info on the yahoo yellowpages. They did my subframe connectors.
Good luck,
Joe
 

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