BenBrausen
SHO Member
The connector is the only one on the bottom of the master brake cylinder (thing you fill with brake fluid). It's got 2 wires and I just unplugged it. I didn't have to do anything else or replace my BOO switch.
Stuck in Park
- Thread starter BenBrausen
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
ShoGuy93
Yes I Have Blue Rims
Ok the #1 15fuse is blown... so should i replace the boo? or clean the cruise control modlue contacts first. Where ever the CCM is at.. shrug
ShoGuy93
Yes I Have Blue Rims
wow man thanks for the quick replys!! being it is like 3 clock in the morning here! LOL thumb Thanks again man! Another easy fix thanks to the shoforum guys and gals!
BenBrausen
SHO Member
It's 2:30am here in Minnesota. Just disconnect the connector from the bottom of the master cylinder and replace the fuse, then see if it works. All this will do is disable your curise control. Most likley some brake fluid got into the connector and caused it to short and blow the fuse. Gettin' some electrical contact cleaner sprayed in the bottom side of the brake cylinder may be a little tricky. I still haven't figured out how I'm gonna do it but I may just end up takin' the whole thing off and rebuilding the cylinder anyways and do it while I do that. I believe the CCM is the silver box with the large electrical connector between the drivers side fender and the MAF meter but that shouldn't be what would have gotten brake fluid in it.
ShoGuy93
Yes I Have Blue Rims
Ok i went out to the garage this morning i unpluged the connector from the bottom of the master cylcnder and put a new fuse in and it worked. But i was kind of confused cause my contacts were all nice and clean there was nothing in side the connector no oil or brake fluid... what could be the cause then? shrug But besides that every thing is work now. Thanks guys!
Stuck Shifter (ATX)
First of all, I want to thank all you guys and gals in this forum for providing priceless troubleshooting tips. Second, this reply post will further give you a better understanding of why you are locked out from your shifter (ATX).
I was driving along and noticed my ABS light came on/off. Breaks seems to be working normal. A few miles later, my AC temp controls/display seems like it was going bonkers. Hummm possible electrical problem came to mind. Need to get to my destination asap. Next, my tach was giving erratic readings (1100 rpm, and I'm doing almost 60 mph). Starting to sweat here! Seen this before, when my alternator went out six month prior. The digital clock starting to dim out starting with the most right digits and making it's way left. Next.... the engine started to buck like it was starving for fuel. I'm thinking may day, may day, I'm going down. Sure enough, it died at the next stop light. Tried to crank it over, not a chance, the battery was dead. Thinking... I've been driving on battery juice all this time, that means my alternator went out. Manage to get the car out of traffic and onto the side of the road. Called AAA for a tow truck. Truck came, couldn't get it out of Park (here we go). Had to pick up the front end and tow it to the nearest shop. Went home and did my research here for the shifter problem and sure enough, you guys came through once again with the solutions.
So here we go.... I'd follow all of the tips that were posted here relating to the issue and here is what I've found (understood). There was dripping brake fluid inside the cruise control wiring (underneath the brake fluid reservoir). I proceeded to unplugged the battery for safety sake. Unplugged the the cruise controll wiring (underneath the brake fluid reservior). Next I checked the circuit panel underneath the dash just right above the emergency brake pedal. Pull it down, popped the cover and check all the fuse. The #1 15 amp people are referring to is the bottom left corner. Found that was blown, pull it out and replaced with another 15 amp one (very important!!!!). Closed the circuit panel and looked for the brake pedal plug (located right on the brake petal...aka B.O.O???). It's the black (not white) dongal that is attached to brake pedal. Was not sure if this was the caused of the short so I unplugged it. Put the key in the ignition, turn it half way, and proceeded to pull on the shifter. Sure ****.. it moved!!!!
From here, I reconnected the battery. Jumped it from a different car. Turn the key half way again, moved to neutral (with parking brakes on) and cranked the engine over (turned over right away). Let the battery charged from the second car a few minutes and shut it down and disconnect from both cars. Plugged the brake cable (attached to the break pedal) back onto it's housing (cruise controll cable still unplugged). Turn the engine over, press the brake, pull shifter out of park (works like a champ).
My conclusion: The brake fluid that leaked from the reservior shorted out my cruise controll unit wiring and may have caused damage to my alternator (only six months old... maybe, maybe not) but it did blow out the #1 15 amp fuse. Once the fuse was replaced, I didn't have any more locked out shifter.
Now I just have to deal with possible bad alternator and the cruise control wiring/unit. Almost forgot, the brake fluid leak from the reservior also. I hoped this helps and clears up things in regards to this topic. Thanks again everyone!
First of all, I want to thank all you guys and gals in this forum for providing priceless troubleshooting tips. Second, this reply post will further give you a better understanding of why you are locked out from your shifter (ATX).
I was driving along and noticed my ABS light came on/off. Breaks seems to be working normal. A few miles later, my AC temp controls/display seems like it was going bonkers. Hummm possible electrical problem came to mind. Need to get to my destination asap. Next, my tach was giving erratic readings (1100 rpm, and I'm doing almost 60 mph). Starting to sweat here! Seen this before, when my alternator went out six month prior. The digital clock starting to dim out starting with the most right digits and making it's way left. Next.... the engine started to buck like it was starving for fuel. I'm thinking may day, may day, I'm going down. Sure enough, it died at the next stop light. Tried to crank it over, not a chance, the battery was dead. Thinking... I've been driving on battery juice all this time, that means my alternator went out. Manage to get the car out of traffic and onto the side of the road. Called AAA for a tow truck. Truck came, couldn't get it out of Park (here we go). Had to pick up the front end and tow it to the nearest shop. Went home and did my research here for the shifter problem and sure enough, you guys came through once again with the solutions.
So here we go.... I'd follow all of the tips that were posted here relating to the issue and here is what I've found (understood). There was dripping brake fluid inside the cruise control wiring (underneath the brake fluid reservoir). I proceeded to unplugged the battery for safety sake. Unplugged the the cruise controll wiring (underneath the brake fluid reservior). Next I checked the circuit panel underneath the dash just right above the emergency brake pedal. Pull it down, popped the cover and check all the fuse. The #1 15 amp people are referring to is the bottom left corner. Found that was blown, pull it out and replaced with another 15 amp one (very important!!!!). Closed the circuit panel and looked for the brake pedal plug (located right on the brake petal...aka B.O.O???). It's the black (not white) dongal that is attached to brake pedal. Was not sure if this was the caused of the short so I unplugged it. Put the key in the ignition, turn it half way, and proceeded to pull on the shifter. Sure ****.. it moved!!!!
From here, I reconnected the battery. Jumped it from a different car. Turn the key half way again, moved to neutral (with parking brakes on) and cranked the engine over (turned over right away). Let the battery charged from the second car a few minutes and shut it down and disconnect from both cars. Plugged the brake cable (attached to the break pedal) back onto it's housing (cruise controll cable still unplugged). Turn the engine over, press the brake, pull shifter out of park (works like a champ).
My conclusion: The brake fluid that leaked from the reservior shorted out my cruise controll unit wiring and may have caused damage to my alternator (only six months old... maybe, maybe not) but it did blow out the #1 15 amp fuse. Once the fuse was replaced, I didn't have any more locked out shifter.
Now I just have to deal with possible bad alternator and the cruise control wiring/unit. Almost forgot, the brake fluid leak from the reservior also. I hoped this helps and clears up things in regards to this topic. Thanks again everyone!
morpho18
Member
I had a problem with my Brake On/Off switch a while back...one of the wires that connects the switch to the brake pedal arm broke loose from its solder. the problem was that the wire was so short that I couldn't get a good hold on it while trying to solder it back into place (while being upside down to get access under the dash). So I grabbed a longer piece of wire, soldered it to the connector, then used some heatshrink to connect the longer wire to the short wire. problem fixed. so that it never became a problem again, i used electrical tape and taped it all up and secured it to the brake pedal arm so that it is never a problem again.
Here's a hint...if you're doing any work under their with pliers, unplug the 15 amp brake fuse. The wire that had broke loose was the positive wire and while holding the wire with pliers, the pliers hit the brake pedal arm and sparked massively. After all the repairs were done, my brakes still didn't work and it wouldn't come out of park...hmmm what was wrong now I wondered? The spark caused the circuit to break and needed replaced. swapped in a new fuse and everything worked great.
Here's a hint...if you're doing any work under their with pliers, unplug the 15 amp brake fuse. The wire that had broke loose was the positive wire and while holding the wire with pliers, the pliers hit the brake pedal arm and sparked massively. After all the repairs were done, my brakes still didn't work and it wouldn't come out of park...hmmm what was wrong now I wondered? The spark caused the circuit to break and needed replaced. swapped in a new fuse and everything worked great.
Similar threads
