Stuck Control Arm/Subframe Bolt!

[Storm-Chaser]

You're going to need someone to help you. It takes three hands to: a) hold the wrench against the bolt; b) apply leverage to the wrench with the pry bar; and, c) to then turn the ratchet.

 

[DemonNeno]

If you're out of the bolt far enough, grab the bolt by the threads with a pair of vise grips (just beneath the head) and beat the snot out of it w/ a decent hammer. i sketched up illustration for you.

The vise grips my slip off, but don't let that discourage you. You can also use something to clamp them on REAL tight and run a larger hose clamp around the handle to prevent them from unlocking while hitting them.

 

[Redline]

Yea, I had my wife help me, but it just wasn't happening.

That vise grip idea is pretty good, but I already bought a sawzall, so I think I'll just go with that. I'll let you all know how it goes!

(Nice illustration BTW)

 

[Redline]

Well the sawzall prevailed! I tried cutting through everything where 93shoblkmtx indicated, but I only got as far as the inner steel insert. That thing is some super tuff steal. I could have sat there for an hour without getting all the way through it I think.

In the end, I cut just the bolt off, just to the left of the rear subframe mounting bracket. I then beat the brackets with the hammer and spread them just a bit. I then was able to get in there with a crow-bar and a tire iron and pry it enough to get the cut end of the bold to pop through to the inside of the bracket. Then it was just a matter of prying it enough to get it out. Whew, glad thats finally over! Now its time to put everything back together!

This project has been a pain, but that was kinda expected. Besides, I know it will be totally worth it when I drive it cause most of the stuff in the front end will be new. Thanks for all the advice everyone. If I ever get around to it I'll post some pictures but don't count on it

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Redline,
While I realize this was probably trying your patience pretty well :banghd:; I would like to encourage others to *not* bend the subframe mounting brackets. Everytime you "bend" metal it introduces metal fatigue and stress, making the brackets weaker and possibly resulting in failure of one of the mounting brackets over time.

So for others that may reference this thread in the future, PLEASE take the time to completely cutout the lower control arm bushing, if that's what it takes. Yes the inner sleeve is hardened steel, but cutting as much of the outer sleeve as you can and then changing to a new cutting disc once you get to the inner sleeve, will help. Damaging any of the four mounting brackets (while repairable), could eventually require replacement of the entire subframe assembly. And that's something you definitely don't want to try in the parking lot. Not to mention how many frozen bolts you will probably have to deal with in swapping-over all the suspension parts.

And for future reference, another technique to try given how far you got the bolt to back-out, would be to cut the head-end of the bolt off, then hammer it back towards the front of the car until it clears the aft-subframe mounting bracket a short distance (~3/16"). Cut a short section off the [now] protruding threaded-end of the bolt, and work it back into the bushing where it should now clear both the forward and rear subframe mounting brackets without having to bend the brackets.

 

[Ghost93]

Ghost93

Nice rims! What kind? Which spring/strut setup did you use and how far did you lower it?

They are 17" rsl valkyrie's. This pic was with tokico and eibach combo, Thanks for the interest.

 

[Redline]

Redline,
While I realize this was probably trying your patience pretty well :banghd:; I would like to encourage others to *not* bend the subframe mounting brackets. Everytime you "bend" metal it introduces metal fatigue and stress, making the brackets weaker and possibly resulting in failure of one of the mounting brackets over time.

So for others that may reference this thread in the future, PLEASE take the time to completely cutout the lower control arm bushing, if that's what it takes. Yes the inner sleeve is hardened steel, but cutting as much of the outer sleeve as you can and then changing to a new cutting disc once you get to the inner sleeve, will help. Damaging any of the four mounting brackets (while repairable), could eventually require replacement of the entire subframe assembly. And that's something you definitely don't want to try in the parking lot. Not to mention how many frozen bolts you will probably have to deal with in swapping-over all the suspension parts.

And for future reference, another technique to try given how far you got the bolt to back-out, would be to cut the head-end of the bolt off, then hammer it back towards the front of the car until it clears the aft-subframe mounting bracket a short distance (~3/16"). Cut a short section off the [now] protruding threaded-end of the bolt, and work it back into the bushing where it should now clear both the forward and rear subframe mounting brackets without having to bend the brackets.

Yea, I absolutely agree. Unfortunately, given time constraints and location etc, I didn't have much of a choice. Fortunately, the brackets are fairly strong and aren't brittle or anything. It would take some seriously bad luck for it to fail I think, especially since I didn't have to spread them much and since my car is rust-free for the most part. But, if it ever does fail, I'll have it towed somewhere and let them fix it!

If anyone has ever actually cut through the entire bushing with a sawzall (or hacksaw), my hat is off to them. I went through four sawzall blades and I wasn't even all the way through the top of that inner steel sleave. I don't think I would attempt to cut through with one again with anything less than a cutting torch.

I tried beating the bolt in so I could cut some off the front side, but it wasn't going anywhere without taking that steel sleeve with it. I think it would have driven the sleeve through the subframe bracket rather than slid free.

 

[93rev2sev]

Redline how old were they, any idea?

 

[Redline]

Redline how old were they, any idea?

Passenger side (the bad one) appeared to be factory, so 11 years and almost 150k. The drivers side was much newer and wasn't a problem at all. I dont know how old it was, but I would say at least 3 years.

 

[ilikepoultry]

i also have a way to get that bolt out - if the control arm is shot
cut the metal on one side - all the way thru and around
then cut parallel to bolt and pry apart
then either melt or cut the rubber out
then use a vice-grip and slowly back the bolt out
it worked for me, not sure if it'll help anyone else out

 

[tulsa sho]

This is a common problem when the inner metal sleeve of the bushing rusts to the bolt and then spins when you turn the bolt since it breaks its bond to the rubber. I have had good luck on multiple cars by cutting away some of the rubber to expose a small piece of the sleeve. Spin the bolt and hence the sleeve to find the seam in the sleeve that runs the length of the sleeve. Use either a narrow chisel or screwdriver and drive it into the sleeve. This will increae the diameter of the sleeve and break it free of the bolt.