I'm rebuilding my front suspensio, I have the struts and upper mounts. , and Strut bearings are on the way Hopefully I will have my Eibach springs soon as well. Is there anything else I would need specifically for the struts?
struts - what else do I need?
- Thread starter strykr14
- Start date
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Stuff that you NEED? No, that should be it. EDIT: I would get a strut boot kit, which contains new bounce stoppers (big white things), and lower spring insulators as well. You probably don't need them, but it's a LOT easier to be able to assemble the new strut assembly without having to take the old one apart to rob it of parts.... if you don't have air tools, getting those spring compressors on and off gets REAL old, REAL quick.
Stuff that you SHOULD replace while you're in there? For starters, how old are those sway bar endlinks? If you don't know, I'd replace them. Does stuff squeak? If so, it's probably either your outer tie rod ends or your LCAs. Those are optional, but if you have the money and they're bad I'd go ahead and replace them.
You want new rotors and/or pads? Now would be an awesome time to throw them in. Same for CV axles.
It may cost a bomb up front (relatively speaking) but the peace of mind in knowing that everything's new up there is quite nice. I'd replace any easily obtainable bushing while I'm in there too. How much time do you have?
Stuff that you SHOULD replace while you're in there? For starters, how old are those sway bar endlinks? If you don't know, I'd replace them. Does stuff squeak? If so, it's probably either your outer tie rod ends or your LCAs. Those are optional, but if you have the money and they're bad I'd go ahead and replace them.
You want new rotors and/or pads? Now would be an awesome time to throw them in. Same for CV axles.
It may cost a bomb up front (relatively speaking) but the peace of mind in knowing that everything's new up there is quite nice. I'd replace any easily obtainable bushing while I'm in there too. How much time do you have?
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93rev2sev
SHO Member
Upper seats. Like 15 bucks a pop. 2 of em.
Rock auto...
MONROE Part # 903967 {Strut-Mate Upper Spring Seat; Front}
$11.81 $0.00 $11.81
Rock auto...
MONROE Part # 903967 {Strut-Mate Upper Spring Seat; Front}
$11.81 $0.00 $11.81
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Crap - I see the boot kit but all it has is a boot and the stopper, I don't see lower spring insulators with any of the boot kits from rock auto.
and what are upper perches? Is that top of the spring to the strut?
and what are upper perches? Is that top of the spring to the strut?
quikSHOilver
Yamahaized
Along with Hawkeye18's suggestion, I would also suggest that you clean up the subframe area where strut rod gors thru and weld the cup intact to prevent future popping, while at it install new moog bushing.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Rubber spring pad:
MONROE Part # 905965 {Strut-Mate Lower Spring Isolator; Front}
$17.62 $0.00 $17.62
bellows and bump stop.
MONROE Part # 63621 {Strut-Mate Boot Kit; Front and Rear}
$11.94
Hardware
MONROE Part # AK52 {Front; Incl. Bolts}
$3.77
Upper seats.
MONROE Part # 903967 {Strut-Mate Upper Spring Seat; Front}
$11.81
Mount and bearing (mount kit)
MONROE Part # 901926 {Strut-Mate Mounting Kit; Front} PN[901902]
$26.79)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty ] ($23.79)
$26.79
Might as well add the strut
MONROE Part # 71780 {Strut; Sensa-Trac; PN
($50.79)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty ] ($43.79)
$71.93 in misc stuff and $43.79 for the strut
$115.72
Quick strut
127.79
MONROE Part # 905965 {Strut-Mate Lower Spring Isolator; Front}
$17.62 $0.00 $17.62
bellows and bump stop.
MONROE Part # 63621 {Strut-Mate Boot Kit; Front and Rear}
$11.94
Hardware
MONROE Part # AK52 {Front; Incl. Bolts}
$3.77
Upper seats.
MONROE Part # 903967 {Strut-Mate Upper Spring Seat; Front}
$11.81
Mount and bearing (mount kit)
MONROE Part # 901926 {Strut-Mate Mounting Kit; Front} PN[901902]
$26.79)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty ] ($23.79)
$26.79
Might as well add the strut
MONROE Part # 71780 {Strut; Sensa-Trac; PN
($50.79)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty ] ($43.79)
$71.93 in misc stuff and $43.79 for the strut
$115.72
Quick strut
127.79
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Do you mean where the tensioner rod bolts to the subframe? I have a new (non-rusty) subframe and tension rods/bushings. No welder though.
Yep, I saw all this on Rock auto. I take it that's per side. This is getting expensive. If I ever do it again, I'll order quick struts and change the springs out for the eibachs.
Thanks for the info!
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93rev2sev
SHO Member
I think you are right about the quickstruts. I edited my post above with the comparison.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
I'm learning the same one. Even with a screamin deal on closeout sensatracs, I'll be piecing this suspension together for a while.
quikSHOilver
Yamahaized
Yes, it is called strut rod... thats good you have better subframe.. it is highly recommend to weld the cup for preventative measure from future chance of popping cuz that drove many of us crazy! here the link
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=56503
OK, you guys have sold me. I'll take the subframe over to a machine shop I know and get the cups welded.
When I bought my GL, It needed a new multifunction switch and a brake light. Paid $500 more for the sho and it needs everything. I better love driving this thing when I get her on the road.
When I bought my GL, It needed a new multifunction switch and a brake light. Paid $500 more for the sho and it needs everything. I better love driving this thing when I get her on the road.
Northwestvoodoo
SHO Member
Before you start.
Heat the **** out of the pinch bolt and blast it with your favorite penetrating oil. Work it back and forth, spray. Go slow or you will snap it off, just like I did last night!!! I had to drill it out and jury rig it with a nut,washer and bolt. Heres a link that better explains the procedure.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=50865&highlight=pinch+bolt+snapped
Cheers
Heat the **** out of the pinch bolt and blast it with your favorite penetrating oil. Work it back and forth, spray. Go slow or you will snap it off, just like I did last night!!! I had to drill it out and jury rig it with a nut,washer and bolt. Heres a link that better explains the procedure.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=50865&highlight=pinch+bolt+snapped
Cheers
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Yeah, I snapped the DS pinch bolt with a 12" breaker bar - I couldn't get it to budge with my 250lb air wrench so I musta been putting some hella torque on it! Anyway, I had to remove the entire knuckle assembly (a MASSIVE PITA, btw) so I could drill the bolt out with a cobalt (not Kobalt!) drill bit and cutting oil. That took f#%*ing forever.
The other side, I heeded others' directions, soaked it in PB blaster for a day, then got the pinch around the bolt glowing red/orange with my MAPP torch and worked it slooooooooowly back and forth with my breaker bar. I'd loosen it until it didn't wanna go no more, then I'd just rock it back and forth until it moved (relatively) freely. Then I'd loosen it some more... it took every bit of 35 minutes, and I was dripping with sweat afterwards, but I saved three hours in not having to drill it out so I came out winning in the end.
I could also tell you about the sway bar bushing bracket bolt (not the end link)! I had to end up cutting a 2" hole with a hole saw on the side of the frame next to where the bolt comes up and putting a bolt/nut on it... ridiculous.
The other side, I heeded others' directions, soaked it in PB blaster for a day, then got the pinch around the bolt glowing red/orange with my MAPP torch and worked it slooooooooowly back and forth with my breaker bar. I'd loosen it until it didn't wanna go no more, then I'd just rock it back and forth until it moved (relatively) freely. Then I'd loosen it some more... it took every bit of 35 minutes, and I was dripping with sweat afterwards, but I saved three hours in not having to drill it out so I came out winning in the end.
I could also tell you about the sway bar bushing bracket bolt (not the end link)! I had to end up cutting a 2" hole with a hole saw on the side of the frame next to where the bolt comes up and putting a bolt/nut on it... ridiculous.
Well I'm lucky - the whole thing is being replaced. As far as the suspension goes here's what I accomplished:
Passenger side, the LCA bolt came off the spindle no problem as did the tie rod. cut the brake line and cut the swaybar link. Took a prybar and pryed the LCA out of the spindle and ubolted the strut from the strut tower. Then I noticed the halfshaft came apart in the boot so I cut the boot and the whole thing came a way. Other part of the halfshaft is still in the trans. My only fear is the ABS sensor - I need it as the 95 spindles I have dont have the sensors. I took the bolt out but it is really stuck in there.
Driver's side: Got the LCA bolt out of the spindle but pry as i might, it aint coming out - it's loose, but wont come out of the spindle. I will have to cut the rack as well (I have a new one) to get the tie rod off.
I am happily suprised - all the subframe bolts are now loose as are all the motormount bolts. Not as much rust as I thought there would be either.
Subframe is welded and wil be getting paint when I take breaks from wrenching tomorrow.
Passenger side, the LCA bolt came off the spindle no problem as did the tie rod. cut the brake line and cut the swaybar link. Took a prybar and pryed the LCA out of the spindle and ubolted the strut from the strut tower. Then I noticed the halfshaft came apart in the boot so I cut the boot and the whole thing came a way. Other part of the halfshaft is still in the trans. My only fear is the ABS sensor - I need it as the 95 spindles I have dont have the sensors. I took the bolt out but it is really stuck in there.
Driver's side: Got the LCA bolt out of the spindle but pry as i might, it aint coming out - it's loose, but wont come out of the spindle. I will have to cut the rack as well (I have a new one) to get the tie rod off.
I am happily suprised - all the subframe bolts are now loose as are all the motormount bolts. Not as much rust as I thought there would be either.
Subframe is welded and wil be getting paint when I take breaks from wrenching tomorrow.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
Whack the side of where the LCA goes into the knuckle to release the tension in the joint. DO NOT whack the top of the LCA; you'll just mushroom the thingy that goes into the knuckle and you'll never be able to get it out. Sorry if I don't make much sense, the sleeping pills are kicking in. I've had to take them ever since deployment, can't sleep without them... 
Northwestvoodoo
SHO Member
You did all that and nothing broke, snapped, bent? Lucky bastard.
That car should ride beautifully when done. Carry on.
That car should ride beautifully when done. Carry on.
quikSHOilver
Yamahaized
What SFB you plan use? Gen3 or aluminum?
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