Stripped Caliper Bolts

[RiceeatingSHO]

I think I have stripped both of the big bolts holding the brake caliper on. I was using a star head socket (not sure of the technical term) and it just stripped the head. It fit in there tight and I thought it was about to break loose (no slipping inside the head or anything) and then it just stripped, now nothing with catch in there. What can I do? I have basic hand tools and that's it. I love working on my car but this kind of thing always happens. I have been trying to change these struts and springs around work and waiting on parts to get here for going on 3 months now and I'm about to the breaking point. I really need some help on what to do here. The car is in pieces so there is no way I can get it to a shop.

 

[hawkeye18]

You must have a Gen 1. As far as the star head goes, I can't really help you... I can recommend one of those bolt-out kits and a MAPP gas torch and a hammer... and PB blaster.

If you're going to do a whole strut swap, it would really behoove you to get some air tools. A small, cheap compressor should be about $50, and a cheap impact gun about $40... you won't be gunning like the shops do, but a little 1 gal tank should be enough for one or two bolts before you have to stop to recharge. It will be worth the wait, I guarantee it.

Always soak any bolt you're going to attempt to remove in PB Blaster for a long time, the rustier the bolt, the longer the soak. Then, whack it with a hammer a few times to knock the rust in the threads loose. That should help a bit.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

Well, the caliper doesn't have any rust. I used the Torx 30 and it rounded off, we went to the other side and my step-dad believes that the T30 is the wrong size but we can't find a T35 anywhere. And, to beat all I took the castle nut with me to O'reillys and they say that they've never seen a castle nut like that and it isn't even in the computer.

I'm stuck. We have a compressor just not an impact wrench. I guess I could invest in that but I put most of my money into parts anyway, it's worth the time to me to just use hand tools right now. I'm working nearly full time (they won't work me full time because I'm 17).

 

[SHOMEX]

Time to upgrade to 94-95 knuckles and brakes. They wont give you the problems that the gen I does.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

Time to upgrade to 94-95 knuckles and brakes. They wont give you the problems that the gen I does.

I really would love to but right now I need this fixed.

 

[93rev2sev]

If the head of the bolt is stripped, you are going to have a hard time. Double check the head on the torx bit. If the end of it is chipped and mangled, cut it back with a grinder to expose some decent "tread" or get a 3/8" t-40 instead of using the chincy nut driver bit...I'm pretty sure thats the correct size.

Instead of increasing the torque on the wrench, use impact. Usually, I have to tap the handle of my rachet with a hammer to get those slider pins loose. They are loctited(or should be, anyway) into place and only an impact(or a hundred) will get them to loosen up.

The only other thing you can do if the bolt is stripped out is to cut back the rubber, grind some flats on the slider pin and use a pipe wrench.

Replacement slider pins are $4 a pair and probably have the loc-tite on the threads already.

Good luck.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

T40 Worked. I'm just inexperienced I guess, stepdad did it in like 3 seconds.

Now who can point me in the direction of a castle nut? RCM doesn't seem to have it, I guess I could replace the tie rod ends and get them in the kit but my ends are good and tight.

 

[93rev2sev]

Re-use yours. Or...ask the parts-punk to see a new tie rod end and hand it back to him 8 grams light.

Just make sure to have an assortment of cotter pins available.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

Ok, any tips on getting the LCAs off? Everything else is off on both sides except for the LCAs and I am out of ideas. stupid haynes manual says "Remove Lower Control Arms"...no, really? Is that what I do? Sheesh...

 

[clindahl]

Do you have a NAPA or Carquest around? They stock those castle nuts, you just have to find the old guy on the counter that doesn't use the computer, he will get you what you need.

 

[clindahl]

Ok, any tips on getting the LCAs off? Everything else is off on both sides except for the LCAs and I am out of ideas. stupid haynes manual says "Remove Lower Control Arms"...no, really? Is that what I do? Sheesh...

Lower control arms from the Spindle? After you take the pinch bolt out - take a screw driver or a small pry bar and open the pinch up a bit from behind. You only need to open it up an 1/8" or so and the balljoint will be able to easily slide out of the knuckle. Do you have new pinch bolts?

 

[Adumb]

i dont think i removed my lower control arms, i was able to pull the spindle sown far enough to remove the strut without removing the lca

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

Ok, I got the driver's side LCA disattatched from the spindle and the strut assembly out but the passenger side is being stubborn. I am using two prybars to try to disattatch it and it's just not working. I will try to spread the pinch joint a little farther apart tomorrow and see if that works.

The boots on the LCA's are torn up...can I replace tham or do i need new LCAs? I have torn both of them up trying to push it out the bottom.

 

[hawkeye18]

You don't have to remove the LCA. You get an enormous prybar (or equivalent) and jam it under the subframe, and above the LCA. You push down on the prybar (or equivalent) and it will shove the LCA, and the knuckle, down enough to get the strut out.

Again, PB Blaster helps a lot in this situation.

Seriously, you should have like 3-4 cans of PB blaster for a suspension job.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

I bought a GIANT can this morning.

 

[ViPER1313]

To remove the LCA from the spindle use a LONG pry-bar like hawkeye18 suggested. My pry-bar of choice is 10ft of pipe we used to use as a teather-ball post . I usually put it through the middle of the LCA and pry down using the sub-frame for leverage. 10ft of leverage and it comes out like butter - I can barely get the thing to move once it is already broken free with a 3ft pry-bar.

 

[93rev2sev]

Did you ever get the LCA free of the strut tension rod?

Here's a trick...just employed it last week...

Use a tow strap hooked to the LCA on both sides of the strutrod. Then, tie a ratchet strap to the rear wheel, hook the two together and start ratcheting.

Wiggle, ratchet, wiggle, ratchet, wiggle...done.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

Yeah, everything is apart, just waiting on that wrench to come in from Sears...local shop wanted 20-30 dollars a strut to bust the old ones apart and put the new ones together so I'm waiting on the 20 dollar wrench from Sears.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Yeah, everything is apart, just waiting on that wrench to come in from Sears...local shop wanted 20-30 dollars a strut to bust the old ones apart and put the new ones together so I'm waiting on the 20 dollar wrench from Sears.

What wrench??? You can't substitute a wrench for a spring compressor.

 

[RiceeatingSHO]

What wrench??? You can't substitute a wrench for a spring compressor.

Really? I think it'll work...



NO!


21mm Crows Foot...I have a compressor...yes I know the difference in the two...