stinkin batt drain

[badcamelot]

Hey guys need help. A few weeks ago I asked for help with alternator/batt charging issues. I've eliminated the battery as the concern (bought an optima one) and have two alternators that becnh test ok (yeah I know they 'might' still be bad) but unplugging the alt and one post off the batt I connect the test lead between the bare batt post and terminal cable to still find the light come on, it fades out pretty quick, but nonetheless with both connections to the alt disconnected it obviously isnt the alt causing the drain. Tracing it through the **** fuses I narrowed it down to the headlight and fuse block ****'s. So I then went to the fuse panel inside the car. Finally I've traced the drain to fuse #8. With that fuse left out and the **** fuses plugged back in the test lead does not light up. So I think the drain is in this circuit. Problem is this fuse (accoording to the owners manual) works with: chime key in,clock,keyless entry system,radio memory,lights for engine compartment,glove box,instru panel,interior,pwr mirror and trunk/storage area. I realize the radio should always have a milli draw for the memory etc as too with the clock, but these dont drain anyones battery. My key ignition is loose and I have to giggle it to stop chiming when I take the key out, but it does stop. Even if it didnt it only should chime and therefore draw current with the door open right?
Anyone have this issue and know what/where to check/fix/replace?
Thanks.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Just a place to start... but I'd pull the bulb out of the underhood light... cause that will throw off your testing... might be draining because of the hood being open..

Also make sure the switch inside your glovebox and all that crap works like its supposed to. I had an issue on mine where the vanity mirror wasn't turning off when it was closed.. never seen it because I never used the one on the passenger side. Took a while to figure out.

 

[Phoenix]

First , how much amps its drawing @ key off everything closed? (do you know how to do this test?)

2nd , remove all bulbs from the trunk , glovebox and hood

3rd how much Volts your alt charges the batt @ idle?

4th , yes and yes theres been LOTS of bad alts that tested good. Most of them do.

 

[badcamelot]

To answer you both. I have removed both the underhood bulbs from the hood and trunk long ago to eliminate those. I have NOT however checked the vanity mirrors and the glove box. thanks for that tip.
At idle, I just checked agian, the meter when connected to both terminals shows 14v, I also tuern the headlights on and a/c, same level. Same reading with neg side of batt to back of alternator. I started the car and disconnected the battery while it was running and the idle didnt even drop or stutter. I find it hard to believe it is the altertnator - if it is then it is, but how many tests can it pass before I know it isnt the problem? Surely if the car runs with the battery disconnected the alt cant be bad and with the voltage where it is....
I do not know how to test how many amps are drawing? bare in mind that only with the fuse in will the test light work and then only breifly. I was told there is a capacitor that has to charge for the interior light delay and that's likely the cause for the test light coming on then going off.
Thanks.

 

[Phoenix]

Unhook the neg pole at batt.

Put a multimeter set at amps or miliamps , in series between the neg pole of the batt and the neg wire you just unhooked , it should give you the draw.

But make sure everything is closed , like the doors , keys off the ignition etc.

I think in the 100 -200 milliamps you are in the butter zone , but dont quote me on that im not 100% sure. All I know is that anything above 1 amp aint good.

 

[firebat45]

If I remember right 90mA is about average, and up to 150mA is acceptable. Above that and something might be screwy.

 

[badcamelot]

Thanks guys. I will try that. I left #8 fuse out all night and went this mornign to play soccer. The car started, I drove about 40 miles round trip and by the third start cycle (i stopped at the po box on the trip back) it had a hard time starting. So - if - the alt is working ok then that trip alone should have at least provided enough charge to start, there is no drain - or so I believe and yet it still is hard starting. It has been suggested to me that starters can go bad and draw too much amperage and therefore severly drain batteries? Any truth to this? I will go do the amp draw test and let you know.
Thanks.