steering troubles STILL!!

[rbjb99]

I while back I had some trouble with the steering in my 94ATX giving feed back to the steering wheel while turning (wheel wanting to go back and forth while turning)
I replaced the rack and it went away mostly, now the GD thing is doing it again!!!
If the car is running and you open the PS res there is no bubbles and you can see the movement of the fluid like normal. The pump doesn't make any noise and no leaks anywhere, I also flushed to system really well, did i do the wrong thing putting dextron mercon 3 atf in it?

Could it possibly be the thingy with the two electrical connections that bolts to the rack that the pressure hose connects to gone bad?

I haven't had the car long and it goes like a rocket but this problem makes me HATE driving it.Not to mension dangerous.

One other thing... if the tranny slides a bit then clunks occasionally going to 2 gear is it a lost cause or will a band adjustment fix it.

Thanks again

 

[svtman]

I noticed mine does the same thing going around some corners - while turning the steering wheel wiggles in my hands until I straighten out. I know my inner tie-rod is shot and am thinking it may be contributing to this. You may want to check for free play in your front-end.

Dave

 

[sdpatt]

That condition is caused by leaking seals within the rack. Sorry.

 

[rbjb99]

does that mean that reman steering racks from cardone only last 2 weeks?
And to SVTMAN... it is not your sloppy tie rods as i just replaced the whole rack and outer tie rods aswell and the POS still does it.

 

[89 black SHO mtx]

listen to scott. i've heard of older cars with parrallel steering doing it. but that was the way the p/s hose put into the gear box. with a rack and pinnion its only the inner seals that will cause it.

 

[projectSHO89]

rbjb99

Read the first paragraph of this tech article carefully. It explains the REASON your symptom returned.

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/STEERING/Protech/Articles/flush.asp

Why Flush?



The #1 steering problem we encounter on our technical service hotline is always due to contamination in the system. Contamination from either the original rack, pump, power steering hoses or hydro-boost, if equipped. Always make sure the system is flushed properly. Failure to flush the system correctly can lead to several problems such as binding, poor returnability, leaking, hard steering, noise or premature rack failure. In many cases, a failed unit is returned to the factory and after warranty analysis, we find that the rack is contaminated and after flushing, the rack tests good. Unfortunately, the first replacement rack was used to filter the system. Reading the installation instructions in the box and following the process would have prevented the rack from being damaged. Also, we should always install a filter when replacing any power steering component.

Use this process to properly flush the steering system when replacing a steering gear.

1. Fill the power steering pump reservoir with new fluid recommended for your vehicle but do not hook up the pressure hose to the rack & pinion. Place pressure hose in a container to catch fluid and cap the return port on the reservoir to prevent leakage.

2. Crank engine by jumping starter with the key off (this will keep the engine from starting while it is being turned over). Never let the power steering pump run dry and don’t crank the engine for more than 20 seconds.

3. Flush the power steering pump reservoir and the hydraulic pressure hose by pouring new fluid through the reservoir and pressure hose until the fluid coming out runs clear.

4. Connect the hydraulic hoses to the rack & pinion unit.

5. Place the return hose from the power steering pump into a drain pan.

6. Fill the power steering pump reservoir.

7. Crank engine and continue to replenish the fluid until the fluid coming from the return hose runs clear.

8. Connect the return hose to the power steering pump. (make sure all fittings have been properly torqued).

9. Fill the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir to the proper level.

10.Start vehicle and cycle the steering wheel from side to side 2 to 4 times. The system is now properly flushed and should be rid of air.

This process will eliminate any contamination from the pump and pressure hose to enter the rack & pinion. It will also prevent air from entering the system. During the flushing process, the engine is not running at high rpm’s allowing air to enter easily into the system. This process eliminates the aggravation of trying to rid the air in the system. To check a vehicle to see if air is causing a power steering whine, simply take off the cap on the reservoir and inspect the fluid with the engine running. Any foaming or bubbles in the fluid will indicate air in the system that needs to be purged. By using the above process you will not only rid the system of contamination, you will also bleed the system. Skipping a step in the process usually results in a come back.

Tip for the day: when you’re in a rush, don’t forget to properly flush.



//end of article


Steve

 

[rbjb99]

I did flush it, I read this article before i changed the rack.
Would the DM3 atf fluid make it do this?

 

[projectSHO89]

If you follow the procedure suppled by Cardone, no old fluid ever gets into the rack. This is in contrast to the typical procedure used and posted by many here, including myself,who have flushed their systems. Like yours, mine worked fine for a short time, then the same symptom as yours returned. I suspect that the failure is indeed due to contamination.

There is an additional tech bulletin/article at Cardone's site that very strongly recommends replacing ALL lines that are more than four (4) years old. Their point is that the rubber breaks down and and small particles of it will circulate through the system and will cause these problems. They also point out that the rack can be cleaned out by using shop air to blow out the particles as part of a back flush procedure. If I ever get a day with nothing better to do, I will replace all my lines and will attempt the backflush of the rack. I wouldn't bet on it happening any time soon, though.

The Mercon would not cause this.

Steve

 

[rbjb99]

This is what CARDONE had to say about it.(below)
Looks like your right Steve,
I will update when i'm finished screwing with it again.


"It may be that there is some sort of restriction causing this to happen. This is a pressure and flow problem, not a mechanical problem. I do not think that this is a rack problem. If the rubber hose have not been changed in the last 5-6 years, it may be time to change them.

Raymond L. Fitzgerald, Jr.

CARDONE Industries Technical Service Department

Senior Technical Service Representative

PHONE: 1-888-280-8324"

 

[rbjb99]

Here's something interesting, i spoke to a guy today and he said it was the "pressure valve" Do these things have them, where the **** are they and why did the problem stop for a while when i changed the rack if it is this pressure valve causing the problem.
hmmm

 

[projectSHO89]

Did he even tell you where this "pressure valve" is located? The pump or the rack?

Steve

 

[rbjb99]

He said it is something to do with the pump, but other than putting a new pump on I can't see it.

Rod

 

[bybyc5]

iagree with projectsho89, could also just be a bad rack, they are built by humans mistakes do happen, sorry about that those racks suck to replace thumbs_u

<small>[ March 27, 2003, 10:50 PM: Message edited by: bybyc5 ]</small>