Steering Rack Change

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sperold

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My 95 has a rack where the line from the column tower to the port on the rack casting has rusted out.
I have heard a lot of bad things about rebuilt racks.
Which racks give the best service?
My rack works great otherwise.
I am considering buying a new rack, and new in and out lines.
Any advice on the rack; and how hard is the removal and install?
Thanks
 

jelloslug

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My 95 has a rack where the line from the column tower to the port on the rack casting has rusted out.
I have heard a lot of bad things about rebuilt racks.
Which racks give the best service?
My rack works great otherwise.
I am considering buying a new rack, and new in and out lines.
Any advice on the rack; and how hard is the removal and install?
Thanks

The rack is a royal pain in the ass to remove. It's easier to just pull the subframe off and remove it like that.
 

msteiny

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I was wondering the same thing myself, I already have the sub-frame dropped and wanted to swap it out, as well as alot of other things. I think it is crap shoot myself, and I have researched all the prices at various suppliers. However I also would like hear others opinions on this subject.
 

msteiny

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Whats wrong with new or reman? I ask only because I dont see eye-to-eye with the ********** that runs our local junk yard. He charges just as much as new because he has his guys remove the parts from the cars because nobody is allowed in the back.
 

sperold

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Does the 3rd gen rack bolt in without mods? Is that Variable Power Assist feature the same on the gen 3? I don't know if I am ready for upgrading, but I am open to all opinions.
I am getting a bad feeling about this.
My subframe has been out lately, so that is a partial savior.
How many hours am I looking at?
 

jelloslug

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Does the 3rd gen rack bolt in without mods? Is that Variable Power Assist feature the same on the gen 3? I don't know if I am ready for upgrading, but I am open to all opinions.
I am getting a bad feeling about this.
My subframe has been out lately, so that is a partial savior.
How many hours am I looking at?

It bolts on fine (use the 3rd gen rack bolts) but you will have to fab up a high pressure line. You take the high pressure line from the 1st or 2nd gen and splice the pump end to the rack end of a 3rd gen high pressure line. Mine cost $20 to have spliced at a hydraulic hose store. You can install the SARC module and wire it up to get the variable power assist but it's not required. The wiring is easy: 2 wires to the rack, ground, hot, power in run, and a connection to the VSS.
 

sperold

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I bought a new rack and the two hoses associated with it.

All my quotes for doing the labour seem to be in the $400.00 range.
The Ford dealership is 4.5 hours @ $82.00 per hour.
A little independent shop is 5.5 hours for $375.00 fixed price.
Another small shop is $69.00 per hour for as many hours as it takes.

I am having trouble with these numbers. Are these prices right?
I am seriously thinking about leaving the job until the next time I am unemployed, and doing the rack swap myself. The problem with that is, unemployment never seems to happen when it is convenient.
Am I wrong, are the prices reasonable, and I am not?
 

93rev2sev

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The prices are right. Especially if the y-pipe to manifold studs break while removing the y-pipe.

There's no telling that they'll have it done in one day for you though. You might be better off paying the more experienced/expensive shop or doing it yourself. You don't want the guy to get 6 hours into and start getting ******. The only things that'll rain on your parade are those manifold studs. After that, the rest isn't too bad.

The level of skill needed to swap a rack is on par with the level of skill needed to swap a subframe. If you can swap a subframe efficiently, don't pay to have the rack swapped.

Having said that, I did NOT remove the subframe when I did my rack a couple months ago. It would have made the rack install easier, but the job would have taken quite a bit more time. I just lowered the rear of the subframe with the engine disconnected at the subframe mount points and supported by the rear exhaust manifold. This uses the weight of the engine to your advantage. The front engine mount will remain in contact with the subframe as you lower it by backing out the rear subframe bolts and at the same time, the weight of the engine pushing down on the front mounting location will make the engine and subframe open up like a clam in the back, allowing relatively easy access to everything you need.

The two things you'll want to tackle first are the exhaust manifold to y-pipe nuts and the steering column to rack slip joint. If you can get those without much trouble, the rest is pretty easy.
 

cobratwo

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i'm not sure about your year but i just did my 1990 rack and it isn't that bad. remove all hose connection to the rack, disconnect the steering at the bottom of the steering colum, remove the 2 nuts holding the rack to the subframe, disconnect the tie rod ends and remove the drivers side link that goes from the stabalizer bar to the strut. after all the you should be able to manuver the rack out the driver side. turn the rack clockwise so the steering stub is pointing down and it should come out. all without disconnecting the subframe. it took me about 1.5 hours to get it out. it takes alot longer to put back together though.
 
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