chase6073
New Member
has anyone ever done the power steering rack on one of these if so exactly how hard is it?
and what should i know befor hand?
and what should i know befor hand?
steering probs
- Thread starter chase6073
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
smcallis
New Member
Total bitch. Take the subframe off. I can be done without removing the subframe but those that have done it generally swear they never will do it that way again.
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
It can be done with the subframe on, it just requires careful manuvering of the rack's body around the brake booster and the brake hydraulic lines.
If I did it again, I'd leave the subframe there and just be patient.
OTOH, if I needed a clutch and a rack, I'd definately do both at the same time as the rack replacement is FAR easier with the subframe dropped.
The procedure is messy and mechanically challenging, but doable by anyone with a decent level of mechanical skill.
Prepare by cleaning the underside of the car. I drove the car up on ramps, sprayed the entire area around the rack with engine cleaner, then power washed it from the inside of the engine bay and from underneath. The more stuff you clean off early, the less that will drop in your face while you're lying on your back.
Drain/expell as much of the fluid as possible. I disconnected one of the hoses from the cooler, drained it, then cranked the engine with the DIS unplugged to get as musch fluid out as possible. The more you get out at first, the less there will be to drip in your face while you're lying on your back.
Stop by the Ford store and pick up a couple of extra Teflon seals. Your replacement rack should come with 2, but get a couple extra. They're about 75 cents each.
To disconnect the fluid lines from the rack body, go in from the top after removing the air inlet duct and anything else in your way. It's much easier that going in from the wheel well.
Make sure you purge all the air from the system after reinstalling and sealing the new rack.
If you don't have the step-by-step instructions in the Helms, better get those, too. They will help keep you on track.
Good luck.
Steve
If I did it again, I'd leave the subframe there and just be patient.
OTOH, if I needed a clutch and a rack, I'd definately do both at the same time as the rack replacement is FAR easier with the subframe dropped.
The procedure is messy and mechanically challenging, but doable by anyone with a decent level of mechanical skill.
Prepare by cleaning the underside of the car. I drove the car up on ramps, sprayed the entire area around the rack with engine cleaner, then power washed it from the inside of the engine bay and from underneath. The more stuff you clean off early, the less that will drop in your face while you're lying on your back.
Drain/expell as much of the fluid as possible. I disconnected one of the hoses from the cooler, drained it, then cranked the engine with the DIS unplugged to get as musch fluid out as possible. The more you get out at first, the less there will be to drip in your face while you're lying on your back.
Stop by the Ford store and pick up a couple of extra Teflon seals. Your replacement rack should come with 2, but get a couple extra. They're about 75 cents each.
To disconnect the fluid lines from the rack body, go in from the top after removing the air inlet duct and anything else in your way. It's much easier that going in from the wheel well.
Make sure you purge all the air from the system after reinstalling and sealing the new rack.
If you don't have the step-by-step instructions in the Helms, better get those, too. They will help keep you on track.
Good luck.
Steve
chase6073
New Member
thanx it looks like i am going to need the luck but 1 more qestion is a rack from auto value or parts source good enough or do i need to pay twice as much as thos and get the foord one?
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
I used the A1 Cardone remanned rack from O'Reilly Auto Parts. 80 bucks US after exchange. (Non-VAPS, SLO rack). YMMV.
Scott Patterson has posted the part number before along with his experiences from about a year ago.
Steve
89
Scott Patterson has posted the part number before along with his experiences from about a year ago.
Steve
89
A Motorcraft Rack is going to run you about 300-400 dollars!
Buy a reman, basically same thing, but cheaper.
Edited to say: what steering issue's are you having?
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Millersho ]</small>
Buy a reman, basically same thing, but cheaper.
Edited to say: what steering issue's are you having?
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Millersho ]</small>
sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
The A1 Cardone 22-214 non-VAPS rack for the Gen I SHO is down to $69.99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts in my local area. I replaced mine back on February 1 of this year. Here is the link to the topic where I discussed that including pictures. Here is a link I posted just this week on the replacement of the driver side tie rod on this rack.
O'Reilly's manager was good enough to let me have the Moog replacement at no charge under the rack's warranty. It was either that or replace the whole rack. That is not something I want to do again. The only cash lost was in having the toe-in checked after the replacement. The toe was only +.06". Not too bad for old eyeballs.
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 08:44 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
O'Reilly's manager was good enough to let me have the Moog replacement at no charge under the rack's warranty. It was either that or replace the whole rack. That is not something I want to do again. The only cash lost was in having the toe-in checked after the replacement. The toe was only +.06". Not too bad for old eyeballs.
<small>[ September 16, 2002, 08:44 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>
Similar threads
