Steering noise=Worn CV Joint?

[shoTruth]

I've been searching around other threads but cant pinpoint the problem. My car makes a clunking type noise (almost like the noise my jeep would make when the tires rub against the wheel wells) when I am making a sharp turn at slow speeds. It also makes noise at a stationary position but the noise turns to more of a grinding sound rather than the clunking. So, do I take it in to get a CV joint replaced or do I try and do it myself with no previous knowledge of the suspension system of an SHO or any car for that matter? Thanx.

 

[rangerj]

SHOTRUTH,

It is either a CV joint or a wheel bearing IMHO, based upon your description of the noise.

Can you do the replacement of either one? How well do read, understand, and follow instructions? If you do not have a service manual for the car, go to the library and read the sections on replacing an axel, and the section on replacing a wheel bearing.

The library should have several name brands of service manuals such as Chiltons, Mitchels, Haynes, Motor, etc. Then search this site and read the prior posts about the two subjects.

What experience have you had in the way of automotive repair? Do you have tools? Do you have a friend that is experienced and able to help you?

After you read up on the subjects, and you think you want to try it, get back to us. This is not an easy job for someone with little or no auto repair experience. I'm not sure I would advise you to try it, so while you do your homework we'll think about it! rangerj

 

[projectSHO89]

CV joint failures are usually (not always) characterized by a clicking (distinctly different than a "clunk") noise, especially in low speed turns. Since we don't know what your Jeep sounds like, that description doesn't help much.

How do you reproduced the noise when you are stationary? shrug You have to provide relevent details.

A wheel bearing is easy to inspect. Raise the front wheel safely, grasp the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock postitions and try to wiggle the wheel. Repeat the test while holding the wheel at 6 and 12. If there is motion of the wheel in both tests, the wheel bearing is most likely bad. If the 3/9 test failed, check for play in the tie rod ends (inner and outer). If the 6/12 test failed, watch for movement in the ball joint on the lower control arm. A failed bearing might also exhibit movement in only one of the tests, so watch for the source of the movement carefully.

If you are not comfortable inspecting/diagnosing this yourself, take it to Midas or a similar shop for a check. Many shops will perform a free or low-cost inspection in hopes that they will get your business for needed repairs.

Steve W

 

[shoTruth]

When stationary I reproduced the movement by turning the wheel as far as possible in one direction. It does not make the noise until it turns about 7/8 of the way. This is true for both sides. Do you think it is ok to drive it a little?

 

[RStalveyARFF]

It's either an inner or outer tie rod end.

 

[Mark W]

I agree. Sounds like a tie rod end. Outers you can do yourself. Inners are cheap to get done. DON'T drive it too far or fast until you get that checked.

To check the outer tie rod end, get up under the car, grab the outer tie rod end, and shake it hard. You'll be able to feel it move. They have a nasty tendency to separate suddenly and unexpectedly, so don't push it until you know for sure.

Mark

 

[shoTruth]

Well, I stuck my hands in there and jiggled around the tie rod ends. They definitely had a little play in them. I say they were moving around about a 1/4 inch. The inners I'll have to have a shop fix. I noticed the noise as being more of a clicking at stationary and more of a clunking while moving (both during sharp turning). Thanx for all the help, this is a no drive except to the shop?