Starting the build. Any tips or advice?

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Have all the parts here and ready to install. Kinda overwhelmed about taking the front of the car apart, but needs to be done. I'm gonna be doin gh intercooler, ppe catted, sw exhaust, all the epp pipes and intake, have hpfp and lpfp, but only plan on using the hp until I "need" to open the tank. Any video links or manual screenshots you think would be helpful. Maybe any special tools I don't know I'll need, or some gaskets. I have the turbo to cat and cat to x pipe gaskets already. And a thermostat gasket and well.
 

ridered74

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If you don't own an electric ratchet, I highly recommend it especially for tightening (and then loosening and retightening the epp clamps), a few are in locations that break your back and being able to do them quickly instead of using a ratcheting wrench makes a huge difference.

HPFP is easy....only pita on it is the hard fuel line will not want to line up to the new pump. Use an open end box wrench around the pipe to help it move where it needs to.

Intercooler video is on youtube and is pretty good at showing all the steps. Be especially careful when you are putting on the 2 to 1 piece under the air intake. Many have pinched the gasket and damaged it, that will give you a bit of a boost leak.

On the downpipes, if your studs come out with the bolts frozen onto them, so not just put them back on the new downpipes without breaking the nut free from the stud or they will not be fully tightened down.
 

802SHO

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I’d say for coolant lines that don’t want to budge the trick is to twist them, break the seal that way, then pull them off. If you try to just pull them off you might be fighting with them longer. So twist them first.

Only tighten the clamps to the intake on the turbos, leave the rest loose. Have the intake pipes on before you put the airbox in. But put the filter into the air box before you put any pipes into the air box. Once you get the pipes in to the air filter tighten the remaining clamps. You might want to get a small wo gear clamp to add to the air sensor inside the filter. The silicone split on the opening to the air filter on mine. I just added the worm gear clamp and it’s fine. Be careful not to bend or crimp the air filter.

Take your time and thoroughly check over all your work before calling it good.
 
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I'm under there doin the trans mount(s). I got the obvious one, but either I don't have the front bracket (trans mount) that I see other using, or I'm completely missing it somewhere.
AU18k44
#17
 

DadMobile

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O man, you got it made! You can install epp fitting on the firewall side turbo without the downpipe in the way. Nothing has kicked my ass harder on this car than getting that clamp on!

With stock turbos you can probably get away without using the LPFP depending on the fuel.
 

DadMobile

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I'm under there doin the trans mount(s). I got the obvious one, but either I don't have the front bracket (trans mount) that I see other using, or I'm completely missing it somewhere.
AU18k44
#17

My 17’ didn’t have a front mount. I probably looked all around for an hour lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

DadMobile

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Was gonna do e30

Just go ahead and throw that LPFP on! Who’s the tuner? If it’s a GH E30 tune Matt will probably recommend that you run closer to E40. Either way that E30 tune sure makes a huge difference. You might want to look into a ethanol sensor right before you switch to e30. This will help you get baseline ethanol rating on your local 93. You’ll also know the exact mixture when you take it to the track or are beating on it. It makes life easier and helps you stay consistent and gives you peace of mind.
 
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O man, you got it made! You can install epp fitting on the firewall side turbo without the downpipe in the way. Nothing has kicked my ass harder on this car than getting that clamp on!

With stock turbos you can probably get away without using the LPFP depending on the fuel.
Whats the best angle to try to get the firewall side boot off? I can't even get a visual on the clamp
 

DadMobile

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Best way is probably from underneath and even that sucks. If you have to reach your hands around the downpipe to hold the clamp then another hand to tighten it. If your doing downpipes at the same time I’d remove the old downpipes, install clamp, then install the new downpipes.
 

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When I did the intake I also had a few other things to do. So I still had my passenger side axle out and downpipes off when I installed the intake on mine
 

ridered74

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Best way is probably from underneath and even that sucks. If you have to reach your hands around the downpipe to hold the clamp then another hand to tighten it. If your doing downpipes at the same time I’d remove the old downpipes, install clamp, then install the new downpipes.


Depends on who last tightened that clamp. Mine was a giant PITA! Had to get to it from under car, and it was at such a perfect angle that I could not get a socket on it and could not get a screwdriver on it. Ended up using a flatblade screwdriver to just barely get the edge of the bolt and then hammered the screwdriver. Had to basically chip the bolt around a couple rotations until it was loose enough to turn the clamp a little to a position where I could get a socket on it.
 
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After a few hour at it, I finally got it off. I had unfortunately already did the exhaust stuff, so had dp on already. So I Pulled that back off. Then I was able to get a ¼ ratchet, and about a 4 inch extension socket right above oil line, and onto the clamp.
 

DadMobile

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Nice to see ya got it, that clamp clamp is a real B. At least you know what to do when you eventually upgrade those turbos
 

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