Stalling and No CEL

[CWhalenSHO]

Did a search with no luck...

Finished up my front 60K on Sunday. She started right up and purred like a kitten. I was starting to get my hopes up.

I let it idle until it was warm and decided I'd take it for shake down. Pulled to the first stop sign (maybe a 100 yards away from my house) as soon as the clutch was depressed, it immediately stalled. Then fired right back up, drove it to the next stop sign to turn left, pressed the clutch, then stalled again. Fire right back up, drove down the street to turn left to back to my house, pressed the clutch, stalled, then fired right back up.

Get it back to the driveway. She fires up every time, runs fine until the gas is pressed, the RPMs go up and then back down, it stalls....No CEL all the while.

Any luck? IAC? Is it mandatory to do the idle reset procedure after a 60K and having the battery disconnect for long time?

Kinda stuck because I don't have that CEL....

Thanks in advance.

 

[jmpSHO]

You definately have to do the idle reset procedure anytime you disconnect the battery. If that doesn't solve your problem I would have to say you have a bad IAC.

 

[SHO SPD]

^ What he said. Make sure the MAF is clean too

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Did the idle reset procedure. No dice. As soon I touch the gas to drive around the block she revved then stalled.

Could this be a vacuum leak around the IAC? Still throws no codes. My only thought is it's a vacuum leak or a bad IAC.

But what makes me think that's not a IAC is that my SHO wasn't doing this before I did the top and front 60K.

 

[SHO SPD]

Do you hear any air sounds when its idling?

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Do you hear any air sounds when its idling?

No I don't.

I just think that when I did the top 60K I might have split a Vacuum hose somewhere along line that could be causing this problem.

 

[rubydist]

When you do the idle reset procedure, you need to have the battery disconnected long enough to drain the 'keep alive memory' on the vehicle. On my red 94 this is over an hour, even if i step on the brakes, turn on the lights, etc. while the battery is disconnected. You can tell by whether the clock is reset when you power it back up - if the clock is still keeping time, the kam was not drained, if the clock has started at 12:00, then you are okay. If the kam was not drained, it will not re-learn the idle.

 

[jmpSHO]

Before I did my upper 60k last month my IAC was good, however when I was finished the car wouldn't idle. I removed and reseated the intake, checked numerous times for a vac leak and could not find any. I cleaned the IAC with no difference but with no codes and the idle problem it had to be a bad IAC and after replacing it, it fixed the problem.

I believe that because I didn't remove the IAC when I cleaned the intake I ruined it somehow, most likely from all the gunk in the intake getting to the IAC.

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Before I did my upper 60k last month my IAC was good, however when I was finished the car wouldn't idle. I removed and reseated the intake, checked numerous times for a vac leak and could not find any. I cleaned the IAC with no difference but with no codes and the idle problem it had to be a bad IAC and after replacing it, it fixed the problem.

I believe that because I didn't remove the IAC when I cleaned the intake I ruined it somehow, most likely from all the gunk in the intake getting to the IAC.

IAC is next on my list. What you just described is exactly what I did.Top 60K, I disassembled the intake manifold and cleaned every bit of carbon out it using Berryman's.

IAC is going to be the next thing I look at. Now my next questions is this, Is there anyway I can replace that without having to remove the intake? I know the bottom screw on the IAC is going to be hard to get to with the inake on there.

Thanks,
Chast

 

[frosho]

Did you clean the MAF?

There is no need to remove the intake in order to get the IAC out. The bottom screw is a pain like you said, but it's definitely doable with the intake on the car.

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Did you clean the MAF?

There is no need to remove the intake in order to get the IAC out. The bottom screw is a pain like you said, but it's definitely doable with the intake on the car.

I can't remember if I did that while I did the 60K or not....I haven't cleaned it since it started with this problem. I have some Berryman's in the garage.

Can I use that or is there something else that is better to use to clean it?

 

[frosho]

I wouldn't use Berryman's, that's some strong stuff. You can buy MAF cleaner from most auto parts stores. This is what I use -

 

[CWhalenSHO]

I wouldn't use Berryman's, that's some strong stuff. You can buy MAF cleaner from most auto parts stores. This is what I use -

I've seen it before. I thought Berryman's might be too strong and screw something up.

I'll give it a shot. Certainly can't hurt.

I'm also going to make sure all the vacuum lines are hooked up and not cracked. I got a feeling that either one of them are cracked or I didn't put them back on correctly....

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Tony (SHO_ROLLER_2) came over this evening and helped me swap out the IAC.

Now she purrs like a kitten and doesn't stall after giving it gas. Everyone was right. IAC FTW

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

Tony (SHO_ROLLER_2) came over this evening and helped me swap out the IAC.

Now she purrs like a kitten and doesn't stall after giving it gas. Everyone was right. IAC FTW

Hey, good to hear man!

 

[CWhalenSHO]

Holy Thread revival.....

Well, seems not all is as it seems regarding the stall issue.

Yesterday, SHO_ROLLER_2 came over to help me, again. Now it seems I have some sort of phantom coolant leak. It looks like it's coming from off of the front of the engine, between the head and heat shield. I initially though it was just burning off the small amount of oil I recently spilled.

It started getting worse and I looked under the car, there was a nice little puddle of water. Jacked the car up (yes, we used 2 jack stands :wave to see where it was coming from, couldn't find squat. So, with the car jacked up, we started it back up in hopes of being able to spot the leak while he was under the car. No dice. Not only was no coolant leaking onto the ground, now the steam from the front of the engine stopped.....

So I said to **** with it, and we took it around the block. Made 3 left hand turns, pulled up to the last stop sign (which is conveniently about 10 yards away from my driveway) and she stalled. Didn't fall flat on it's face like it did last time. Hit clutch, RPM's came down like normal and it started to surge or "hunt" for the right idle RPM maybe 3-4 times then died....Waited about 5 seconds, she started right back up.....

Went for a slightly longer drive right after that. Was running decent but had a sputter every now and then. Like it was missing on a cylinder once every 30-45 seconds. Then the fun began, made a U-Turn, CEL came on and it ran like crap for about 10-15 seconds. Gave it gas and it seems like she didn't want to move. CEL went off then all was well again with the exception of the slight sputter.

WTF is going on with my car. Tried to pull codes using the paperclip and I couldn't get the CEL to come on, let a long start flashing the codes.

Please help.

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Another thing, when it was running OK, in 1st gear she seemed to run fine even at WOT.

It only started to miss if you laid into the gas in a higher gear. Cruised 50mph fine, but as soon as the gas was depressed, it started to miss. When the RPMs were up, it wasn't as bad.

 

[SHO SPD]

How old is the fuel filter? Fuel pressure regulator working ok? Can you swap a CID from your friends car?

 

[SHORANGERBIRD]

guessing CID...

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

How old is the fuel filter? Fuel pressure regulator working ok? Can you swap a CID from your friends car?

If it was the fuel filter, why would it run better at higher RPMs and be intermittent? He might want to swap it anyway, but I'm just wondering.

CHAST!! Let's swap CID's next time. AND GET SOME FRESH GAS!!