Spring/Strut mount question.

[pete c]

I posted this in the gen 1&2 forum without any response. Maybe I'll have a little more luck here. And yes, I have dearched for the info.

Like a *******, I disassembled both rear struts at the same time, putting everything in a box without drawing a diagram how it all goes together.

Bought new, well almost new kyb struts and new mounts, one was really shot. Also bought new springs (moog CCs) after hours of sanding convinced me that the surface rust was a little deeper than first thought. Now it's time to put all this crap back together. The rubber spring isolators go at the bottom of the spring, according to the parts drawing from the dealer parts computer. It also lists some sort of part that goes between the top of the spring and the mount, but, it says this is only for 90-91. If I put everything together with nothing between the spring/mount, the spring has room to move around. I tried placing the lower isolator there and it seems to fit pretty well.

Could somebody 'splain wtf goes where. Pictures would be a bonus. I also have the rubber bumper/donut thing that Keeps the strut from crashing into the mount when bottomed. Also have the heavy metal spacer washer thingy that goes between the strut mount and strut rod bolt. On one side this piece, which I believe to be some sort of a vibration dampener, split in two. I was thinking about jb welding it back together.

I was thinking about putting the isolator on the top with nothing but a few coats of rubberized paint at the bottom. Problem is, one of the isolators is too big. Looks like it came off something else. My guess is some dolt threw this thing on awhile back. This could explain why the strut mount on that side was shot to ****.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[Mels]

Pete, recently there was a post entitled "cutting Intrax springs" or something like that. I'm thinking that in that post there was a reply with pics, which may help you to some degree.

Good luck!

FAST4DR posted on 10-02-04 at 0817 pm a reply with three links to additional pics. Click the link titled "comparison of before and after". This pic shows one assembled. Again, I don't know if this'll help, but it may...

 

[pete c]

Mels,

Those pics were of fronts. Didn't help much. Thanks anyway.

BTW, where in the **** is brookfield? SE ct?

 

[FAST4DR]

Pictures. Did somebody say pictures. I love pictures. Here are a couple of the rear strut. Don't know how much it will help but maybe I can try and explain it also. If I remember correctly.

Rear Strut 01
Rear Strut 02
Rear Strut 03

You don't have to re-use that vibration dampner if you don't want to. I have heard a couple people say they didn't re-use it and couldn't tell a difference. I did, cause they were there.

I think this is how you want to put them back together. Starting at the top down.

Bolt
Dampner (if you want to reinstall)(big chunk of metal)
Washer (Cupped side down, toward rubber bushing)
Strut mount (the big rubber part that is one piece with the three bolts sticking out of it)
Washer (cupped side up, so that it matches the curve of the rubber)
Boot
Bump stop over shaft of shock
Spring
Rubber spring isolator at bottom of strut

That's pretty much it. Really pretty simple. To tighten the bolt, I just hit it with my impact wrench a few times to tighten it up. Just remember that on the shock shaft there should be a washer put on first then the strut mount then another washer on top, then the bolt. I have seen cars without the washer on the bottom and eventually the shock shaft will push up through the rubber and bang around and not work until you take it apart again and put the washer in.

Will

 

[pete c]

Thanks man. Great pics. That is pretty much how I figured it goes together. My only concern is that the top of the coil fits kinda sloppy over the strut mount. I am thinking about using the old springs rubber tubbing over the last turn of the coil. That takes up pretty much all the slop.

 

[FAST4DR]

Thanks man. Great pics. That is pretty much how I figured it goes together. My only concern is that the top of the coil fits kinda sloppy over the strut mount. I am thinking about using the old springs rubber tubbing over the last turn of the coil. That takes up pretty much all the slop.

How sloppy? When I put my intrax on.... After I tightned down the bolt, I could grab the spring and turn it with a good amound of force. But, I wouldn't worry about that. Once you set the car down on it, it compresses a lot. My intrax have never moved or twisted and I drive the car HARD. It has been airborn also, with no problems.

Will

 

[pete c]

Will,

The slop is not up and down, it is side to side. In other words, let's say the ID of the coil is 6 inches. The diameter of the strut mount is about 5 inches. This could allow the top of the spring to move laterally. I was thinking of placing the old springs rubber tubing over that end of the new coil. Doing this makes the coil a snug fit over the mount.

BTW, what the **** are ya doing up at this hour? I work 3rd shift.

 

[Mels]

Good, it looks as though another catastrophe narrowly averted...

Thanks for jumping in with the help, Will.

Pete, Brookfield is exit 9 on 84, last exit before Danbury on the NY side of this state. C'mon down sometime.

 

[FAST4DR]

Will,

The slop is not up and down, it is side to side. In other words, let's say the ID of the coil is 6 inches. The diameter of the strut mount is about 5 inches. This could allow the top of the spring to move laterally. I was thinking of placing the old springs rubber tubing over that end of the new coil. Doing this makes the coil a snug fit over the mount.

BTW, what the **** are ya doing up at this hour? I work 3rd shift.

Hmmm, I wonder why the ID of the spring is so large as compared to the mount. Isn't it made for the taurus? But yeah, if the rubber thing over it makes it fit tight then that would probably work without problems.

Why am I up late? I work night shift also, and evening shift, and day shift. I work at a hospital so my sleep is completely messed up.

Will

 

[John Monnin]

How do you remove strut caps?

How do you remove the strut caps?

There is a 21MM nut buried in a hole so I need to use a socket, But if I use a socket I can't stop the strut rod from spinning.

Any suggestions?

 

[DHMag]

i have a wrench especially made for the 21mm nut on strut assemblies. most will recommend a crowsfoot on a rachet.

 

[John Monnin]

i have a wrench especially made for the 21mm nut on strut assemblies. most will recommend a crowsfoot on a rachet.

I don't think a crowsfoot will work, there just isn't enough room.
I will fab a special socket up at work

 

[DHMag]

heres a pic:

 

[John Monnin]

heres a pic:

Cool, I was told that Lisle part number 63400 is for a strut nut removal tool set that should work. I am taking the strut to the tool store today just to be sure.

 

[pete c]

To remove the old nuts, I just clamped the strut rod with visegrips. This is obviously not an option with struts that are going back in. To tighten the new strut bolt, I wrapped the strut fairly heavily with electrical tape. Then wrapped that with emory cloth, then grabbed it with visegrips. I was able to get the nut fairly tight before the strut rod started to spin. I believe it is tight enough. I guess the preferable way is to use an impact gun. Don't have one, though. Yet.