Speedo Cable

[dstig1]

About 2 yrs ago my speedo (or something) was making a rattling/grinding noise. Then it started bouncing a bit. A couple days later it went ploink and dropped to zero. Took it all apart and the speedo cable was busted internally. OK, it's 10-11 yrs old, no biggie. Replaced it and got it all back together - but it was still making the noise. I figured the speedo head was the issue.

Fast forward to now...

Speedo still making noise, speedo gets bouncy, 2 days later ploink it breaks again. Took it apart and the cable was busted internally again. Seemed to be slightly corroded and there was no **** in the cable (dry). This was only 2 yrs or so. Is there a trick to this that I am missing? Are you expected to manually **** the cable before assembly? I think i will for sure this time.

I also took the opportunity to check out the speedo head. Took it apart and it looks great - no dirt/fuzz/anything in the mechanisms. Used a drill and clipped of the end of the broken cable to drive it a bit (up to 80 mph indicated) and no apparent noise from the speedo. Musta been the cable again.

So any thoughts? I will grease, but not sure what would be best - grease gun HP grease - lithium - teflon stuff - ???

Thanks,

 

[93SHO'nOFF]

Years ago Ford had a **** just for speedometer cables but that's long gone,well so are speedometer cables,but blue lithium grease would be the best thing to use due to it doesn't harden up in colder temp's like most grease does.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to find some of that. Any common brand names it goes by?

 

[93SHO'nOFF]

The Ford Brand is the only one I had ever used,But the part # is D2AZ-19590-A

 

[dstig1]

Quick Follow-up. Got the new cable and pulled the core out and it was pretty dry. This was definitely the cause of the "rattle" noise. The guy at the Ford dealer was nice enough to scoop out a couple teaspoons of that blue grease you mentioned (BTW, it says Teflon grease on the can not lithium) so I didn't have to buy the 3 lifetime supply size can. Greased up the cable with the blue stuff and it slid back in much easier. Took it for a drive and all is quiet - for the first time in years. SWEET!

FYI the cable part number is F2DZ-9A820-C and is obsolete but there are a few special dealers that handle obsolete parts that still have some. It is special to the SHO and is also called the "red" cable (vs the SLO "Blue" cable).

HTH someone

 

[93SHO'nOFF]

I just looked on my can and it too says Teflon,Oop's my bad,must have been thinking about having lithium or something?But glad to see it worked and that they hooked you up with some,they tell me to buy the can it is pretty expensive .

 

[Howdy_Doody]

Are you pulling out the speedometer head to change this cable? It seems to me you could pull it out from in the engine compartment and be a lot easier. I've got a noisy cable so I'm looking at my options...

 

[SHO green like$]

Speedo Cables Need Grease

These parts counter guys never tell anyone to grease speedo cables, Over the years I've seen this same post on a bunch of Auto forums. I guess they sell more cables that way, Nissan wanted $120. for my trucks cable sheeeez...It's just a cable!!

The label on the cable should tell you to **** the dang thing. I've even talked to Techs that use hand cleaner to **** 'em (No pumice obviously)....

The Teflon Grease is the best

 

[93SHO'nOFF]

Are you pulling out the speedometer head to change this cable? It seems to me you could pull it out from in the engine compartment and be a lot easier. I've got a noisy cable so I'm looking at my options...

No,the top of the cable is plastic that is molded to the cable and won't allow you to pull it through the case.
Pulling the instrument cluster out isn't that bad,I sometimes have to disconnect the cable outside the car by master cylinder to be able pull the cluster out more to get my hand behind it and at disconnect at the speedo head.

 

[dstig1]

The easiest way I have found to get the cable out is this (not easy but it works):
1. remove driver's knee bolster (4x T30 screws)
2. Remove steering column trim lower shround (phillips screws)
3. Remove Key cyclinder (turn key to run - not start - and push up on pin underneath to pull it out)
4. Remove upper steering col shround and reinstall key cylinder to shut the car electricals off (it's double hard to get dash trim off with the column shround still in place)
5. remove cluster trim (4x T20 screws & disconnect all electrical connectors).
6. Remove cluster screws (4x T 20 screws)
7. In engine compartment, remove air intake hose and air filter cover to get access
8. remove the *bleeping* speedo cable clip and pull the speedo cable from the short cable that runs into the tranny - you'll learn why I *bleeped* the clip
9. push speedo cable and rubber grommet back into passenger compartment
10. now you can get behind the speedo to squeeze the plastic retainer and pull the speedo cable (barely)
11. unplug 2 electrical connector from back of speedo (painfully)
12. pull speedo head, and pull old cable through.
13. drop old cable on the ground and stomp on it and curse at it

When reinstalling, make sure you connect the speedo and electricals to the speedo head first, then finish threading the cable to the tranny and connect after securing the speedo head. You need the flexibility of the cable being loose on one end.

And don't forget to grease the new one!!!

BTW this is for a 92 - YMMV for different gens