Someone once told me that I should slow down... (brake question within)

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Racer X

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...and I thought about it and said, "well, if I'm gonna do this, I'd better get it right the first time."

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=320205649159&rd=1 + http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html + http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml (ATe SuperBlue)

=

Giggity.

Now, onto my questions.

Rebuild kit for the calipers. Should I? They're in decent condition by account of the pictures (not the ones in the auction), and I hadn't planned on anything more than a hardware kit, but if it wouldn't hurt...

Also, the setup looks like it comes with the stock 13" Cobra rotors. If they're decent (read: safe), I'll run them, but if not, what are some people's experiences with slotted rotors? Any favorites? Should I just stick with solid rotors?

Pads and fluid I'm pretty set on.

Thanks for your thoughts and time on this. :)

- H.
 

Sho Amo

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ive hear pro-stop rotors are good. and slotted not drilled i heard drilled rotors crack easier if you ever plan to track it.
 

Shoaz

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Unless you're having some problem with the brakes, there's no reason to slot or drill them. Another way to say that is, "What problem are you solving by slotting or drilling the rotors?"

Inspect the calipers, they probably won't need a rebuild. There's not much to them, but on the other hand a rebuild kit is cheap and easy to apply.
 

Racer X

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Thanks for the replies.

I plan on tracking the car, and after seeing what "spirited" driving yielded with the GT setup I have now, I figured it might not be a bad idea to kick it up a notch.

I don't have any problems just yet, but if I can preempt anything, that'd be a good look. :thumb:
 

SinisterSHO

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I toasted one of the boots on my Cobras at a track day last year. Granted, I think it was because of the napa semi-metallic pads I was running. But it happened. I think the Yellowstuffs get rid of the heat better and faster. I need to order me another set of those, too.
 

K-Dawg

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The calipers are probably fine.

Slotted and/or drilled rotors are a waste IMO. I prefer the zinc-washed rotors that you can get on eGay for like $100. No rust really makes them look nicer on the car. You might have to contact a seller and tell them exactly what you want.
 

NJSHO

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The only issue I've heard of with one piece cobra rotors is that on some versions of them, the rotor will crack and seperate where the ring meets the "hat" under track conditions. I dont think its a common occurance, but I certaintly would not want it to happen to me. Unfortunatly I forget which design it is. To solve the problem, Im going to get 2 piece rotors, in addition to being safer, I believe they are around 3lbs lighter per side. This one piece suckers are heavy (19 lbs I think.) In fact, if you want to save on shipping, I would tell the guy not to bother sending the rotors, and just pick some up at the store if your going to stick with one piece.

Edit: after some searching, it appears the problem occurs when using the brembo calipers, not the stock pbr. The brembo is fixed, where as the pbr is a sliding design.
 
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38SHO

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this is the route I'm gonna go, I'm gonna skip right over the 11.6 upgrade this time and go straight for the 13" rotor........

I'd just buy some new loaded calipers, u can get them for under 200 at times, then new rotors aren't too bad of a price.... you'd almost be at the same price and have new shit...
 

Shoaz

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I toasted one of the boots on my Cobras at a track day last year. Granted, I think it was because of the napa semi-metallic pads I was running. But it happened. I think the Yellowstuffs get rid of the heat better and faster. I need to order me another set of those, too.

In my experience it's uncommon for the dust boots to survive on any brakes if tracked very often at all. For a car that sees regular track duty you get used to looking at the crispy remains of dust boots. The good news is that it doesn't really hurt much for them to be completely gone. I'd maintain dust boots for a daily driver in a dusty or dirty environment, but otherwise just regular maintenance tends to keeps up with issues.
 

Racer X

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this is the route I'm gonna go, I'm gonna skip right over the 11.6 upgrade this time and go straight for the 13" rotor........

I'd just buy some new loaded calipers, u can get them for under 200 at times, then new rotors aren't too bad of a price.... you'd almost be at the same price and have new shit...
Please enlighten me as to where you can find the calipers for under $200, as I've been seeing prices for just the calipers and brackets, new, approaching $500, not to mention an extra $100+ for the rotors.
 

JEM

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Edit: after some searching, it appears the problem occurs when using the brembo calipers, not the stock pbr. The brembo is fixed, where as the pbr is a sliding design.

The issue first popped to life on the '00 Cobra R, with the fixed-mount Brembo calipers in a Mustang with an absurdly heavy 5.4L mod motor in the nose. That also happened to be the first application of the current-design (Brembo) 13x1.1 Cobra rotor.

In very severe usage the hubs would flex enough to allow the rotor to hit the caliper body, enough of this and the rotor would separate around the corrugated hat section. IIRC a passenger in a Cobra R at some track back East was killed.

Ford's suggestion at the time was to go back to the earlier (Kelsey-Hayes) rotor design with the conical hat. I'm not sure what ever came of that afterward. I know some folks went off and CADed up their own SN95 Mustang hub shells after that, and I think Ford released a revised hub design later on too.
 

K-Dawg

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The issue first popped to life on the '00 Cobra R, with the fixed-mount Brembo calipers in a Mustang with an absurdly heavy 5.4L mod motor in the nose. That also happened to be the first application of the current-design (Brembo) 13x1.1 Cobra rotor.

In very severe usage the hubs would flex enough to allow the rotor to hit the caliper body, enough of this and the rotor would separate around the corrugated hat section. IIRC a passenger in a Cobra R at some track back East was killed.

Ford's suggestion at the time was to go back to the earlier (Kelsey-Hayes) rotor design with the conical hat. I'm not sure what ever came of that afterward. I know some folks went off and CADed up their own SN95 Mustang hub shells after that, and I think Ford released a revised hub design later on too.

It happens with the floating Cobra Calipers also, but the rotor makes contact with the bracket. Cobra Caliper Brackets

Racer X said:
Please enlighten me as to where you can find the calipers for under $200, as I've been seeing prices for just the calipers and brackets, new, approaching $500, not to mention an extra $100+ for the rotors.

You used to be able to find the PBR calipers for around $200, but it seems that prices have about doubled recently. You can get rotors at the parts store for about $35 each I think.
 

hawkeye18

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my wife has slotted and dimpled rotors on her car from ebay, 11.6". Do they affect braking at all? Not a bit, as far as i can tell. The dimples make noises reminiscent of crickets at speed. This freaked me and my wife the **** out for a while, as we thought wheel bearings were going out, etc, but we replaced EVERY SINGLE suspension component... and it's still there. Must be the rotors.

Slots have been proven to reduce outgassing of pads... if you're running the Nurburgring. If you're not lapping Nordschleife, then don't bother. Unless you're into the looks of them; they do look sweet IMO.

That is all. True story.
 

Racer X

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-0...020QQitemZ300192192674QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

the place that had them for under 200 is no longer in business..........

rock auto sells Bullit Calipers unloaded for 90 a piece, included core charge

also rock auto has caliper brackets for 25
Just to satisfy my curiousity... where exactly am I going to come up with the cores from, when I'm upgrading from a non-Cobra setup. Again, this is just to satisfy my curiousity.

And as I'm sure you've read already, that eBay auction is for a set of rear calipers. Not to be confused with the front calipers, which are the ones in question.
 
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LeddZepp8687

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Please enlighten me as to where you can find the calipers for under $200, as I've been seeing prices for just the calipers and brackets, new, approaching $500, not to mention an extra $100+ for the rotors.


Wow. I got mach 1s for 175 bucks. And my best friend got bullitt calipers for his Mustang for 185.
 

Lightning

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I had another look at Rockauto,

'04 Mach1 calipers, loaded, $122.79 (wt 30.00 core)
'04 Mach1 13" vented rotors, $24.79

That's $295.16, plus shipping of course. Works out to $235 after core refund.


Personally, I'd go for the new stuff. Warranty is always a good thing, plus you won't have to pay to ship hoses, bearings and spindles you'll never use.
 
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38SHO

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yep I am CERTAIN i've found cobra/mach 1 calipers... brand new... loaded with brackets for under 200 for the pair in FORD boxes.... prices ARE skyrocketing these days

i think more people are starting to see the value in that for a brake upgrade and now the markets trying to make some money

also my prices I quoted included the core charge, you wouldn't have a core to give them so u just pay the core charge.... which still ends up being cheaper


and werd on the new brakes, unless you've personally used them before... I wouldn't expect the greatest thing since sliced bread... maybe one is locked up who knows... maybe the piston bores are all corroded or rusty... they do look like they were sitting in a junkyard for awhile.... no fluid in the calipers = easily for moisture to get in there and F it up
 
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NJSHO

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My one piece rotors have a recessed area between the ring and the hat. What do the Kelsey-Hayes rotors look like.
 

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