Snapping bolts when LOOSENING

[MyFirstSHO]

I am planning to do an upper 60K sometime next week.

I've been collecting all the parts needed. Yesterday I just went out to sears and bought a 3/8" drive inch-pound torque wrench for torqueing the intake bolts and valve cover bolts to spec.

I also loaded up on carb and choke cleaner, PB blaster, Anti-seize compound, and spark plug wire electric grease. I Also bought the 4-1/2" 5/8" spark plug socket from NAPA. I picked up a 5mm allen head socket for the valve cover bolts.

The only thing I'm worried about, is snapping one of the intake runner bolts when I try to loosen them.

Has this happened to anyone before?

I Know they like to snap when you tighten them but thats why I got the torque wrench for.

If the PB blaster doesn't work, could I use a portable propane torch to heat up the area around the bolt? Or will it warp the intake?

Or am I just paranoid? I searched the archives but only came up with snapping bolts when tightening them.

Thanks
Ryan.

 

[projectSHO89]

Give then a slight nudge as if to tighten them, then back them out. The forward movement often cracks the bond that may have formed.

BTW, these bolts are not known for having this problem. Just use a 6-point instead of a 12-point socket on them to avoid rounding them off.

Steve

 

[rangerj]

Ryan,

The intake runner bolts should not be a problem. They are not torqued at a large amount of torque and are large enough that they should not break.

Typically it is best to take bolts out of aluminum, like the heads, when it is cold. This is especially true of the spark plugs. The best way to prevent broken bolts is to properly torque them in the first place.

When you remove the runner bolts, or any bolts for that matter, make sure you are squarly on the bolt head and apply steady even torque and not a jerking action. This minimizes the chances of breaking the bolt or rounding off the hex head.

If there is corrosion arround a bolt, where it meets the surface of the part that it holds, clean away the corrosion. Soak the area with a penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster.

When removing a nut clean the corrosion off of the threads. this reduces the amount of friction when you back off the nut, and reduces the chances of breaking the bolt.

If you are going to do the valve shim adjustment you will find it helpful to tape a piece of string to the adjusting tools. This makes it easier to find the tool if it gets dropped.

Cover the oil return holes in the corners of the heads. I would do one head at a time, that is leave the valve cover on the head you are not working on. This prevents crap from getting in the top of the head.

Tape over the intake ports, again to prevent crap from falling into the ports. When you finish cleaning a port, cover it back up with tape.

You are going to be turning the engine by hand to set up each valve for adjutment, so loosen the plugs but don't remove them. this allows the compressed air to escape but prevents crap from getting into the cylinders.

Enjoy your project, rangerj

 

[MyFirstSHO]

Thanks for the tips.

I was not planning on doing the valve lash adjustment (I know slap ) only because I was told by a friend of mine (that is not a SHO mechanic, but has vast overall knowledge) that I could not handle that part of an upper 60K. I did however go out and buy a 36 piece feeler gauge. I was just planning on checking the clearences, can this be done with just a feeler gauge or **** no you gotta take the shims out? At any rate, I do not hear any valvetrain noise at this time so I am not too concerned with it right now. I just want to replace the plug well seals, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and all intake gaskets as well as thoroughly cleaning my intake manifold.

So do I need any special tools besides a feeler gauge to just check the clearances?

 

[SW SHO]

You might want to clean the IAB too once the intake is off.

 

[DHMag]

MyFirstSHO:
Thanks for the tips.

I was not planning on doing the valve lash adjustment (I know slap ) only because I was told by a friend of mine (that is not a SHO mechanic, but has vast overall knowledge) that I could not handle that part of an upper 60K. I did however go out and buy a 36 piece feeler gauge. I was just planning on checking the clearences, can this be done with just a feeler gauge or **** no you gotta take the shims out? At any rate, I do not hear any valvetrain noise at this time so I am not too concerned with it right now. I just want to replace the plug well seals, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and all intake gaskets as well as thoroughly cleaning my intake manifold.

So do I need any special tools besides a feeler gauge to just check the clearances?

checking the clearance is no big deal. but you will need a way to rotate the cams. an adjustable wrench did not suit me well, so i used channel locks on the flatted part of the cam. if you decide to change the shims, thats when youll need either the required tools or modified tools to complete the task.

 

[MyFirstSHO]

How about leaving the car in 1st gear and pushing it forward to move the cams? Then when you run outta room in the garage, just slap it in reverse and push back.

Won't that work?

As far as the IAB, I bought EVERY gasket (Sometimes twice slap ) known to man for the intake manifold/TB/IAB/IAC, and about 4 cans of carb and choke cleaner so I think im ready to clean everything.

I just spent all day today cleaning all the bolts on the intake and valve covers, then hitting them with PB when they were cold, then I drove it and hit all the bolts again with PB when they were hot, then drove it home. Ill prolly do this for the next 4-5 days straight til my spark plug wires come in, and im emotionally ready to take on this task.

I do NOT want to snap any bolts.

 

[autobahnsho]

The intake bolts came out super easy on mine- the valve covers took a little more patience.

I'm pretty sure that last month was the first time they'd been off the car since it was built.

Be sure you clean the spark plug wells before removing any plugs- a small hose attached to some sort of vacuum or pump works to get any oil, mud, or whatever grime you have there out.

Good luck! Take your time and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[pjtoledo]

MyFirstSHO:
How about leaving the car in 1st gear and pushing it forward to move the cams? Then when you run outta room in the garage, just slap it in reverse and push back.

Won't that work?........
.

Not as good as needed. In 1st and reverse the mechanical advantage is awarded to the engine. Put it in 5th if you want to push the car to turn the engine over. To turn the engine over all you need to do is put a 19mm (or 3/4") socket on the crank bolt and put slow steady pressure on it. That allows the cylinder pressure to escape past the rings, takes a few seconds but it does work.

Perry

 

[MyFirstSHO]

Ok this is where my paranoia originated from:

I was checking out the allen head valve cover bolts on the front valve cover.

When the engine was dead cold, the 2 LEFT most bolts (when you are staring at the motor), the chrome rings under the bolts were spinning (When I was cleaning them up) INDICATING those bolts were not tightend properly. YET I warm the car up to normal temp., then I try to spin them, nothing tighter than a *****. The RINGS under the valve cover BOLTS, mind you.

Then I look 2 bolts to the right, and what do you know one of the 5mm allen head bolt holes looks semi-rounded off. Nice eh?

SO this is why IM freakin out. THE fuc*in RETARD that had my car before me that took the car apart, was a mongaloid. Straight up. No doubt in my mind. I don't have ANY hope that the bolts were torqued down AT ALL. AND WE ALL KNOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU DON'T PROPERLY TORQUE BOLTS THAT GO INTO ALLUMINUM, right? They seize together (ESCPECIALLY SPARK PLUGS) PERMENTENTLY WITH NO WAY OF GETTING THEM LOOSE EXECPT.........SNAP!!!!!

Im just so sick of snapping bolts.

I snap a bolt/spark plug, Im setting the car on fire.

So in short, the car WAS taken apart before, with no anti-seize and no proper torque was applyed. I know im gonna snap a bolt or at least a spark plug then the car will be junked, Im having a preminition....

<small>[ February 15, 2004, 08:03 AM: Message edited by: MyFirstSHO ]</small>

 

[shobikes]

Life's much better when you think positive...

FWIW - I just took apart my parts car, and everything came off fine, even though it was an outside PA car, and very rusty. Those valve cover bolts have a shank - they can only go down so far, which is why it's critical to torque them correctly. If the valve cover gaskets are all dried out and old and shrunken, then the washers under the bolts may very well spin. Just make sure you've got a GOOD 5mm allen (Snap-On or Craftsman, NOT Tiawan junk) to remove them with, and take your time.

Don't ever believe anybody who says you can't handle a task. Removing/replacing shims is fairly easy, and once you've done one, they're all the same. You probably won't have to, though. We rarely do on this engine.

 

[MyFirstSHO]

Shobikes, thanks for the moral support thumb

I just freak out when it comes to working on my daily driver.

You should see me when I work on my cars.....actually you probably don't want to, in fact I highly recommend you steer clear of me when im workin on my rides....

Edit: Because of past trauma I have experienced with working on cars (To be more specific, snapping bolts when im loosening them) I am now deathly afraid of snapping bolts (As you can see by this post) I think its a phobia.

Whenever I am loosening bolts/nuts, as soon as I break it free WITHOUT snapping it, I start talking/yelling at it like it is my Bitch.

"Yea, thats right B****"

and my favorite one is-

"Whut you gonna do now, HUH?"

Yep thats right I talk to bolts laugh_ti slap

<small>[ February 16, 2004, 09:29 AM: Message edited by: MyFirstSHO ]</small>

 

[MotoArts]

MyFirstSHO:

I was not planning on doing the valve lash adjustment (I know slap ) only because I was told by a friend of mine (that is not a SHO mechanic, but has vast overall knowledge) that I could not handle that part of an upper 60K. ?

Dude, don't listen to your friend. If you know enough to get to the cams, you can do the check and adjustment. Have some faith, man. It's not rocket science. thumb

<strong>At any rate, I do not hear any valvetrain noise at this time so I am not too concerned with it right now.

From my past motorcycling experiences, the valves will not necessarily make noise when out of adjustment. Usually, the clearance tightens up from valve recession. The (comparatively soft) valves beat themselves into the seats in the head, causing the cam-to-valve clearance to tighten. So, don't be suprised to find tighter than usual clearances when doing the initial check. When run too tight, the valves (especially exhausts) may not spend enough time on the seats to shed the heat generated by combustion. If the valves are run excessively with these tight clearances, they will tend to burn the valve-to-seat area. I'd much rather see loose clearance than tight. This may not be true for every engine's adjustment requirements, but it's something to consider.

Pete

<small>[ February 16, 2004, 11:17 AM: Message edited by: MotoArts ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

DHMag:
checking the clearance is no big deal. but you will need a way to rotate the cams. an adjustable wrench did not suit me well, so i used channel locks on the flatted part of the cam.

Oh my God, no! Channel Locks on the camshaft? There will be small metal particles removed from teh cams and depositied into the valvetrain gallery. Just use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive on the crankshaft damper bolt to rotate the crank and the cams.

 

[gosho89]

sdpatt:

DHMag:
checking the clearance is no big deal. but you will need a way to rotate the cams. an adjustable wrench did not suit me well, so i used channel locks on the flatted part of the cam.

Oh my God, no! Channel Locks on the camshaft? There will be small metal particles removed from teh cams and depositied into the valvetrain gallery. Just use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive on the crankshaft damper bolt to rotate the crank and the cams.

This post is scary eek! Scott see what happens when your away to long.

<strong>

if you decide to change the shims, thats when youll need either the required tools or modified tools to complete the task.

I would also add to Scotts suggestion and flip the shims at the very least.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

sdpatt:

DHMag:
checking the clearance is no big deal. but you will need a way to rotate the cams. an adjustable wrench did not suit me well, so i used channel locks on the flatted part of the cam.

Oh my God, no! Channel Locks on the camshaft? There will be small metal particles removed from teh cams and depositied into the valvetrain gallery. Just use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive on the crankshaft damper bolt to rotate the crank and the cams.

Or be REALLY lazy and jack up the passenger side of the car, put in gear, and turn the cams by rotating the tire