Snaped Valve Cover Bolt...How to get broken end out?

[Dr.Evil]

I snaped a valve cover bolt while torqueing it to spec, and now I need to figure out how to get the broken piece out. I REALLY REALLY do not want to drill it and use an easy out (don't want metal shavings working their way into the motor) Any ideas?

 

[TYSHO]

Is there enough sticking out to use some vise grips and twist it right back out? If not, what you mentioned is your only option, I believe.

You have the little red X's, no pic.

<small>[ December 19, 2003, 07:24 PM: Message edited by: TYSHO ]</small>

 

[gosho89]

Originally posted by Dr.Evil:
[QB] I snaped a valve cover bolt while torqueing it to spec, and now I need to figure out how to get the broken piece out. I REALLY REALLY do not want to drill it and use an easy out (don't want metal shavings working their way into the motor) Any ideas?

Yes drill and easy-out is about the only way to go. You shouldn't have any problems as long as you cover any exposed/opened engine components. Its really pretty easy drilling, the bolts are solf. I've had it happen to me while doing customers 60k/valve adjustment disassembly. Usually when someone had tried to reseal the valve covers when using old plug well seals and old valve covers gaskets. eek!

 

[luigisho]

The Craftsman bolt extractors work great for this application. I hope it happened on the front head since the angle at the rear is real PITA. Make sure you use a punch before you start any drilling to keep the bit on center. It happens to alot of us. Good luck.

 

[Bizzy]

clean the area really well so that there is now oil residue. then use a drill and easy out or bolt extractor while a friend holds the business end of a shop vac there to catch any little bits of metal.

 

[rangerj]

Dr. E.

Think magnet! rangerj

 

[Shoaz]

I agree, if there's not enough to grab with a vice-grip, then an easy out or some of Craftsman bolt extractio tools are about the only way to go.

This shouldn't be that big of a deal, though. Cover the surrounding area with rags, shop towels, whatever, to catch the metal shavings. A buddy with a shop vac and or a big magnet doesn't hurt, either (although I think the shop vac will be much more effective).

 

[Off Road SHO]

The difficulty with using easy-outs is that it is very hard to drill out the old steel bolt in an aluminum head. You just can't keep the darn drill bit centered or straight. Once it wanders into the soft aluminum, it wants to stay there.

Some helpfull hints:

If any part of the stud is sticking out above the surface, grind it off flat. Then use a small center punch to put a small indent where you want the drill bit to stay. Start with a smaller bit and work up to the size needed for the new tap.

Or, you could look for a reverse pitch drill bit and hope to back out the broken off stud with the counter clockwise motion of the bit.

Always drill into metals with low rpms. This gives the bit edges time to bite into the metal and not skip over it and make small chips.

After the drill bit is started put a dab of grease on the tip and it will catch all of the chips in the grease.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[sdpatt]

Use a tap to punch a starter hole in the center of the broken bolt stub. Place a paper shop towel over the affected area with the center cut out for the bolt. Tape the center hole around the ****** on the head to hold and seal the paper towel. Steady the drill (a Dremel Tool works great) and be very careful drilling into the stub. I had to do this on one of my "lessons learned" back on the 120,000 mile service.