Smog Check Failed? NO too high... suggestions?

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GEN1SHO

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I just failed my smog check in California. I have a non-CA car however, brought from Denver. The report can be seen at the following URL (warning: 300K image):
http://www.wintermancer.com/~jmahoney/images/1990SHO/smog_check_VIR_fail.gif

The actual mileage is 142,319 and of course it's dual-exhaust.

Basically I need to lower my NO emissions. Anyone have any off-hand knowledge on how I can do this? I had the SHO Shop do a basic 60k service on 27 MAR 2001 (mileage was not recorded).
Thanks!
 

93nighthawk

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Your Gen1 SHO is missing the EGR valve (only required in California, all SHO models destined for Cal had EGR's, the other 49 states did not have it. God I am glad we don't have smog tests here). I would suggest calling up the Sho Shop and seeing if they have an intake & exauhst manifold with EGR. This should correct the problem.

Eric
 

naval-avi8or

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Are you intending on tagging it in CAL. if not email me and I give you some info on how to get it passed. BTW if this confuses anyone if hes in the military he can keep his out of state tags.
 

Rob94

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Try replacing both your O2 sensors. If that doesn't do the trick, and it SHOULD, then you're probably looking at new cats. Good luck.
 

GEN1SHO

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Hi folks,
Thanks for all the responses! I'll look into getting the O2 sensors replaced. These are in the exhaust manifold, right? Or in the Y-pipe?
My car was actually purchased in Denver while I was in the military. I did bring it into CA and it has been tagged here for a few years. I've never had a problem passing before; apparently either my car has some emissions issues, or the rules got harder (the shop guy mentioned this), or both. My guess is both!
Since my car was originally from Colorado it does not have the EGR assembly, but as naval aviator correctly pointed out, I am not required to get it, and would rather avoid it if possible!
Thanks again, will post on the results...
 

srfdude

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Since I just got a smog check on my CA (EGR) '90, thought I'd check the differences in Fed vs CA requirements. Apparently there are none according to the Max allowables on your scanned report compared to mine. I did notice that the fellow I take mine to uses a lower RPM to do the check; your rpms were over 2500 while mine was tested at 1600-1750 rpm, which was also the case when he did the ATX ('95) check. Incidentally, a good tech will run the engine at ~2000 rpm for about 2 min. just prior to the check to make sure the cats are hot and working effectively. Did that happen in your check? My EGR is obviously plugged as the code the computer throws always indicates faulty, but the NO results were quite good on the test; I passed the HC by ONE ppm. Time for new plugs!
Mike
 

GEN1SHO

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Well, I finally got back to the smog test shop. Unfortunately, still same problem, though I did get my O2 sensors replaced at SHO Shop.
Here's the scan of my new failed check:
(warning: 350K image!)
http://www.wintermancer.com/~jmahoney/images/1990SHO/smog_check_VIR_fail2.gif

The tech. did do a 2-minute warmup to ensure the cats were warm, though I had already been running errands and the engine was hot.
Which brings me to a new point... in my frustration, I looked up emissions in the "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control" book and it says:
"Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx): NOx refers to several kinds of nitrogen oxide which result from chemically combining nitrogen and oxygen during combustion. Nitrogen and oxygen are normal parts of air, but they exist in air as separate elements. As long as the combustion temperature stays below about 1300 degrees Celsius (2400 degrees Fahrenheit), the nitrogen and oxygen do not combine. The nitrogen passes out the exhaust pipe just as it came in, separate and harmless. However, if combustion temperatures rise only slightly higher, the two elements combine chemically into various forms of gasses that become NOx, a key element of smog" (p. 49).

So this means to me, my engine is running very hot, especially since my NO emissions have gone UP since the last test, despite the new O2 sensors. If this is the case, what can I do to regain a level combustion temperature? What would cause it go get pushed up higher?

Thanks everyone for all the advice. If anything, I guess I can try the SPOUT idea next time... I'd prefer to fix the problem though in the long run.
I don't think it's the cats because I have had one replaced recently and the SHO Shop said the other looked fine.
 

pete c

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If that spout thing leans the mixture, it will just raise exhaust temps even higher. Sounds like you are running to lean already. Not sure what would cause it in an injected car. I believe when an O2 sensor goes it runs rich just to be safe.

So, in otherwords, I don't have a fahkin' clue what's wrong!!! :)
 

Mr Anonymous

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A few suggestions:

1. Are your cats original? They might be crapped out and not cleaning the NOx from the exhaust gas. If you have someone who could let you "borrow" a newer Y-pipe, the labor to swap it just for the test would be a pain, but could help get you passed.

2. They sell those cans of "stuff" at most chain auto parts stores that are supposed to lower emissions. I've never tried one, but it could be another cheap solution to get you through the year.

3. Basics: change the oil, air filter, spring for a tank of 93/94 octane (if that's not normally what you use), decarbon procedure, clean & gap plugs. These can all be done yourself for short $.

4. If your engine is running too hot, you might want to change out the t-stat (180 deg.) and coolant temp. sensor, these could both be contributing to both the temp. They were probably done at the 60K, but is relatively short $ and June would be a good time with most of the summer still ahead.

Good luck! Be sure to let us know when you pass and how you did it!
 

pete c

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If NOx is caused by high Ex. temp, water injection could be of help. Someone else here mentioned that they use it. Is it an expensive system? Sounds like it would be a good thing to install anyway. I would think that it would help with valve/ring longevity.
 

SHOfear

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Where in Boston do you live? I am in Quincy right now, but used to live in Brighton?

Steve

SHOooo:
A few suggestions:

1. Are your cats original? They might be crapped out and not cleaning the NOx from the exhaust gas. If you have someone who could let you "borrow" a newer Y-pipe, the labor to swap it just for the test would be a pain, but could help get you passed.

2. They sell those cans of "stuff" at most chain auto parts stores that are supposed to lower emissions. I've never tried one, but it could be another cheap solution to get you through the year.

3. Basics: change the oil, air filter, spring for a tank of 93/94 octane (if that's not normally what you use), decarbon procedure, clean & gap plugs. These can all be done yourself for short $.

4. If your engine is running too hot, you might want to change out the t-stat (180 deg.) and coolant temp. sensor, these could both be contributing to both the temp. They were probably done at the 60K, but is relatively short $ and June would be a good time with most of the summer still ahead.

Good luck! Be sure to let us know when you pass and how you did it!
 

GEN1SHO

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Here's the latest info in my smog parade:
I took it to a shop here that was listed with the California Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) as a Gold Shield Guaranteed Repair (GSGR) shop that was also certified to smog and pass Gross Polluters (GP), which unfortunately with my most recent smog check my car has become. :( I found this shop using the www.smogcheck.ca.gov website (for other CA-based SHO owners).
So, I get to the shop, and the mechanic has me bring the car around back, since all the bays were full. I popped the hood for him and he just stands there looking around at the engine without really getting into it. He basically says "this engine isn't normal" :)
I describe how I've had my O2 sensors and cats replaced recently, had a 60k service done within 30k miles, had the fuel filter replaced within the last 10k miles.
He seems a little baffled, but still confident that he can do some diagnosis. I can tell this guy is really experienced with troubleshooting engines, so I'm listening intently to his every word. First thing he does is disassemble my 80mm MAF and check the connections. They are all clean. He puts that back together. I guess at this point I should have realized he was looking for reasons for me to be running lean.
After this he pulls back the tape around the TPS wiring, and hooks up a voltmeter to it and the battery. He tries several locations for the ground connection, and finally settles on the battery itself. He has me place the key in the accessory position, and starts taking readings off the green TPS wire while moving the throttle by hand. Eventually he explains "see, the black wire is ground, and the red is +5V from the ECS. The green wire varies up to +5V depending on the location of the throttle. At WOT it should be sending +5V, but yours is only registering +0.1V. To me it seems you need to check the green wire all the way back to the ECS, or the ECS itself may be a problem. Have you ever done any programming with the ECS?"
I say I have, because the SHO Shop put in a custom LPM for my intake and exhaust upgrades.
He says the ECS might be bad, shows it to me where it's mounted against the firewall and says to take it out I'd have to remove the dash. He then says "take it to a Ford dealer, they can hook up an inline computer and have it diagnosed within one hour. I don't have the necessary equipment, but I can do a full diagnostic over a period of a few days. But take it to a Ford dealer. Otherwise you are just wasting your time."
:(
So, to me this kinda all makes sense. If I am really running a lean mixture because of faulty TPS readings, then that should raise my combustion temperature and thus causing excess NOx emissions as noted above.
Anyone have any comments, ideas, or similar experience? Has anyone's ECSs ever failed on them like this?
I feel much more confident in knowing that I may be able to fix my engine after having this mechanic look at it.
Thanks all for tagging along on this super-long message!
 

Mr Anonymous

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I don't think you mentioned in your previous posts that you had the MAF/LPM combo running in the car. You should probably swap out the 80mm for the original MAF and pull the LPM and try again. The 80mm MAFs seem to lean out mixtures both with and without the LPM.

While EEC failure is an outside possibility, if the car otherwise runs well, I tend to doubt that is the cause of the high NO. Have you checked for any trouble codes in the EEC? Theres a writeup on SHO Times if you don't know how to do it. All you need is a paperclip, pen and paper.
 

GEN1SHO

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Got the codes!
I ran the full SHOTIMES codes test, and the only thing I got other than 11 (normal) was 15 ("ECA ROM test failure").
Does this mean my computer's ROM is bad? Could this be reported just because I have an LPM?
Thanks!
 

jbeano

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When my SHO failed the emissions I had very high NOx. I replaced the cats and the O2 sensors and it passed with flying colors.
 

SHO Boom

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ditch the 80mm maf and lpm, they are not legal anyway, no shop should pass your car with those installed, that should help you out a bit.
 

GreenBird

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Try this: leave the car close by the test shop over night, and have 87 octance in it. 87 octane burns at a lower temp, and when the car is first started, it will be much cooler and richer.

I think this will work because you can afford to let your other things go up in exchange for the NOX going down.
 

mexican

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The cats job is to reduce the NOX. Get new cats and put the stock MAF, no LPM and you will pass. I see it happen all the time on SHO's and other cars.

Get a Catco y-pipe from Summit Racing for $300.
 

SHO Boom

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87 octane burns at a lower temp? i dont think thats true, it is more explosive than 91, but i dont think it burns colder, even if it did, how does that help?
 
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