Shutter under hard accelleration

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swamee

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Hi all,

I have a 2010 SHO that I've had since approx 2012, and it currently has 127,000 miles on it. I have been replacing quite a few things on it. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, front struts, control arms, and all four CV axels. This was all done over the course of a month or two.

My problem stems from after most of this stuff was replaced the car would shutter, under hard acceleration. Thought at first it might be engine missing, but it was determined it is not. You can feel it in the steering wheel so I'm inclined to think it's in the front end. If you "roll into" the throttle it usually will NOT shudder, but if you stab the throttle (at any speed really) it does it.

The rear CV axels I replaced with FoMoCo axels. The fronts were Cardone. I had read where it could be the motor mounts, so I replaced both motor mount and transmission mount, as well as the 2 torsional mounts. This did not fix the problem. It has new tires and also replaced the rotors/brake pads this past weekend.

I'm out of things to look at/replace. I know there is an intermediate shaft in there that I did not replace. AND I have considered replacing the Cardone front CV axels with FoMoCo if I go for the intermediate shaft.

Anyone have any thoughts on what could be causing this? If you drive the car like a grandma you'd never notice it.

Any help is appreciated.
 

Texas Marauder

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Mazuroo

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Could it be traction control kicking in when you shift gears? That's what happened to me.
 
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I was having a bad misfire when I first purchased it. Ended up the dealership pressure washed the engine and got water on the plugs xD
 

FREAK_SHO

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Check this hose connection (zip tied hose in pic). If you were workedon the top of the engine, most likely got knocked off, but have been known to come loose over time.
 

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yaycandy

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You can take the coils out and look down the hole to see if oil seeped into the spark plug. All it takes is a little bit to un earth it out.
 

yaycandy

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I actually wonder if they reused the factory axle nuts. They are torque to yield. Cant reuse them. Most of the suspension bolts are torque to yield. Id make sure everything is torqued down correctly . Pm me if you need the ford shop manual download.

Or worn steering gear.
 

yaycandy

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Considered the PTU and started looking into if it has any of the common signs?
Id second that one. I felt some steering vibrations when the ptu went. Vibration just transfers. Kinda felt like the same as he mentioned. Was bad when i would be on it more. I never stomped it with the ptu bad…after i knew it broke. It would be bad vibrations for sure
 

swamee

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I actually wonder if they reused the factory axle nuts. They are torque to yield. Cant reuse them. Most of the suspension bolts are torque to yield. Id make sure everything is torqued down correctly . Pm me if you need the ford shop manual download.

Or worn steering gear.
I replaced the CV axels and did replace the axel nut. Torqued to 256 ft/lbs.
 

swamee

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You can take the coils out and look down the hole to see if oil seeped into the spark plug. All it takes is a little bit to un earth it out.
When I replaced the sparkplugs a few months ago they all looked good. I guess something could have happened since then.
 

swamee

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Could it be traction control kicking in when you shift gears? That's what happened to me.
I have experienced this shutter with traction control off. Not sure if that would eliminate the traction control for sure.
 

swamee

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While it normally feels like a misfire at lower speeds, it could be torque converter shudder. The simplest and cheapest way to check is to add some Shudder Fix to the transmission. A little bit is all you need (1 tube).

I actually seen this on this forum. I purchased a small red tube from Amazon and put it in the transmission. At first I thought it helped. But it's still there.
 

SHOinVa

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Hey Everyone,
I was away for awhile working on my truck then I used it to follow the Dead this summer but I'm about to get the SHO out and do some traveling with it this fall. There may be a better thread but I'm having a similar problem. I was coming home tonight going about 35 when I went to pass some ******* (it was 45 mph zone) and it went a little crazy on me. Best I can figure it's just in the 1-2-3 shifts. I'm getting a real bad shudder, it won't shift, then its dies like the rev limiter is kicking in and then finally shifts. I'm getting no codes at all, and 4-5-6 seem to be normal, its very similar to if it was losing traction but its bone dry on a good road and I was already rolling. One other thing, I have a Brew City Boost tune and its always had this thing where when down shifting at slow speeds, sometimes it didn't know what gear it wanted and would just die for a half second.
Anyway it seems like a similar issue and I was hoping someone might have a suggestion, not sure who I would even take it too, Ford will just tell me its the tune and very few people know anything about this car. By the way if your driving a 30 year old truck and 3000 miles from home don't expect any help from the Ford dealership.
**2012 SHO with 92,000 miles, Oil changes every 3000 miles, transmission regularly drained and filled.

Thanks in advance for any help
Charlie
 

BradM

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Hey Everyone,
I was away for awhile working on my truck then I used it to follow the Dead this summer but I'm about to get the SHO out and do some traveling with it this fall. There may be a better thread but I'm having a similar problem. I was coming home tonight going about 35 when I went to pass some ******* (it was 45 mph zone) and it went a little crazy on me. Best I can figure it's just in the 1-2-3 shifts. I'm getting a real bad shudder, it won't shift, then its dies like the rev limiter is kicking in and then finally shifts. I'm getting no codes at all, and 4-5-6 seem to be normal, its very similar to if it was losing traction but its bone dry on a good road and I was already rolling. One other thing, I have a Brew City Boost tune and its always had this thing where when down shifting at slow speeds, sometimes it didn't know what gear it wanted and would just die for a half second.
Anyway it seems like a similar issue and I was hoping someone might have a suggestion, not sure who I would even take it too, Ford will just tell me its the tune and very few people know anything about this car. By the way if your driving a 30 year old truck and 3000 miles from home don't expect any help from the Ford dealership.
**2012 SHO with 92,000 miles, Oil changes every 3000 miles, transmission regularly drained and filled.

Thanks in advance for any help
Charlie
If it were me, I'd return to the stock tune and drive it for a while to see if the problem returns. You need to eliminate things when diagnosing weird things like this. You're trying to figure out if it's a software or hardware problem.
 

SHOinVa

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If it were me, I'd return to the stock tune and drive it for a while to see if the problem returns. You need to eliminate things when diagnosing weird things like this. You're trying to figure out if it's a software or hardware problem.
I thought about that but my question would be, is there any reason a tune I have been running for several years all of a sudden develop an issue. Maybe if I asked nicely or just pay to update my tune and can remember how to data log BCB will take a look at the numbers and tell me what they see.
C/
 

BradM

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I thought about that but my question would be, is there any reason a tune I have been running for several years all of a sudden develop an issue. Maybe if I asked nicely or just pay to update my tune and can remember how to data log BCB will take a look at the numbers and tell me what they see.
C/
If can log data, even better. Without some testing and data, you're just going to get a lot of ideas about what it might be and you'll be chasing your tail. There is no magic bullet for this type of problem, like change part XYZ. Patience, testing, and data will win this battle. Turn off the tune. If problem persists, log data. Then follow the data.
 

kryptto

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I am with @BradM with this. I dont know what tuner device you are using, you can do a KAM reset on SCT which will reset the transmission tables - just a suggestion, however going back to stock and seeing how the car performs might be the best advice, since you need to rule out a bad transmission - correct? A bad PTU - who knows.
 

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