Short with-in CPS circuit.

[SASHO91]

Had some weird issues with the car heading to school this morning.
When hard braking, the car would stumble, but kick back up. however, when i got to school, it did stall.

I was trying to source the problem, and came to the conclusion that there is a short somewhere in or around the CPS connector area. In KOEO, i could wiggle the CPS connector, and get the fuel pump to prime.

Also another thing that concerns me is the fact that when the car stalled a second time, i left it in KOEO, and it started to smoke a wire. Im unsure which wire this is, as the wire loom is probably, hiding the short'ed wire...

I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction on which wire to look at. Im not too familiar with the CPS circuit, allthough i could pull the wiring diagrams up...

Anyone have this problem before? I've never heard of this before....

TIA.

 

[SASHO91]

Got another problem now... car wont even start.....

i wonder if my CPS is fried....

Guess i'll go pull the codes...

 

[SASHO91]

Update....
One mod leads to another problem... but thats the way of the sho...

Found out that the W/P UDP was rubbing on the CPS line...

So...
I guess its safe to assume that the CPS is fried? or is there something else i should look into?
The car will not start, so im assuming that there is damage to a sensor. However, i do not have any codes... but I'd bet my problems lie with the crank sensor.

 

[SHOtime2511]

is the harness riped up where the UDP was rubbing?

 

[SASHO91]

I really cant see it, however, it seems as if the wires are still ok, but just bare. That doesnt mean that one wire is broken, and the other is still connected...

What sucks, is im stuck at school, the car is parked in the other parking lot, which requires a long trip around a fence, and to top it all off, i dont have a clue on what i need to get it fixed.

Im worried that the EEC may be fried as well... or any other intersecting circuits....

 

[Eric VerValin]

Well if the wire is bare, and touching anything metal like the pulley itself, it would be grounding out.. Try taping it up so they wont touch for the short term if you can. My guess would be that if its shorting, its the power wire that is shorting, and in a direct short, it will take all the power it can get, and the smoky wire is probally that one. Hopefully it didnt get too hot and smoke something next to it. I had a wire kinda do that but it was in the ignition of my F-150.. melted a few.. so I had to replace em, but they sure do smoke fast. I would chase that wire down behind the tape in the big bundle there. If it got too hot, it would be the 'warmest' where it shorted, and anywhere there is a connection or connector. Mine was smoked under the hood, and right where it came in the firewall. Good luck.. electrical gremlins suck.

 

[SASHO91]

well the smoke was coming from the wire melting the wire loom... from the looks of it.

I cant really see too well, as i have yet to pull anything off, but i think the wires are fried together...

Guess i'll go pull it apart. If the new CPS doesnt fix it, then i know i have probelms elsehwere.

Gotta figure out how to pull that CPS wire back so that it doesnt want to play tag with the W/P pulley again.

 

[tdoughboy37]

Was it turning over? If so, What was it doing while the engine cranked?
I feel for you brother... I still haven't got mine back up and running.
Good luck. I hope it's as simple for you as replacing the sensor.

 

[SASHO91]

A simple splice and we are back in business....

got the front end torn down enough to see the problem. The Red/GRN wire was severed, however the coating was not. So I just spliced them back together, button'd her up, and cranked. She sound great....

cant believe on how well these UDP's work... my midrange is and the top end has a bit more too. Revs are a bit faster too.

 

[Eric VerValin]

I'm curious how did you splice them? Something as big of a pain as that is and could be again, I would have soldered them. I love having those kinds of problems tho, quick and cheap.

 

[SASHO91]

just a butt splice.....
and it wasnt that bad. just had to get down into the motor a bit. I figured soldering wasnt needed, although it would have been best, but still not needed.
I also made sure that the wire loom wasnt going anywhere. its not happening again.

 

[SHOZ123]

That's only a 5v signal. I would use solder and heatshrink as over time the copper will corrode with a butt connector.

 

[projectSHO89]

That's only a 5v signal. I would use solder and heatshrink as over time the copper will corrode with a butt connector.

Exactly. If you don't, you are GUARANETEED to have problems down the road once corrosion in that butt splice sets in. It will, of course, happen at the worst possible time.

Steve

 

[Eric VerValin]

You know you can be electrocuted by 5 V ? Car fires dont start with 120 volts either. In a direct short, wire dosent care the amperage, or load. I'm not saying that will be your outcome, but still. At least tape the crap outta your butt splice. I used to have some nifty butt splices that you could crimp, then it had 2 holes you could put a bead of solder into.. can't seem to find em tho, but those are mypersonal fav's. Those and mechanical lugs.. but I dont think they make those that small.

And the wire being vertical, and next to the water pump? that butt splice is like a cup, and yea it will hold moisture, and corrode. So when you get a chance.. tape it shrink it or something, would be your best bet.

 

[SASHO91]

Jesus christ guys its not permanate..... It was a temporary fix to get me home..... the dam sensors only 56 bucks...

dam, im not that stupid....

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Jesus christ guys its not permanate..... It was a temporary fix to get me home..... the dam sensors only 56 bucks...

dam, im not that stupid....

Jesus Christ, they're just trying to be helpful after you once again put forward your asininity for all the world to see. Be more grateful for their input or next time don't ask for help.

 

[SASHO91]

Steve- you got my PM....

Paul- you have a PM.

Eric, my appologies...

 

[Eric VerValin]

LOL.. no biggie, Just didnt want you to have that problem again.. I personally like to hear things I already know, just to be certian.

 

[socialdeviat]

That's only a 5v signal. I would use solder and heatshrink as over time the copper will corrode with a butt connector.

I will Concure that one. Just imagine a chia pet growing inside of that butt connectors (especially if its not sealed or heatshrinked) It will build up resistance and make that 5v signal seem like a weak ass 2v, or worse. So at WOT your CPS is telling your PCM that its only at 20% throttle. Fuel wouldn't bump up, your timing wont advance etc etc. It may not do it now, but ANYTHING sensor related, HECK PCM connected should be fixed the RIGHT way, not just a simple butt connector.

Not saying you didn't find the problem were just tellin ya to do it right so You don't get screwed on a drive again. Im tracing a open/inconsistent circuit thats dealing with my VehicleSpeedSensor(VSS)

Car runs then it doesn't then its running like crap.

 

[socialdeviat]

HA... Maybe I should finish the post, then I would see that it was already answered fully.

Again like they said above, Just wanna stress the point to a T. Get er DONE! RIDE IT HARD.