SHO Sales Value

[bpopilek]

I would definitely plan on doing the TSS/OSS sensors and the solenoid body filter sooner than later, as a preventive measure. 4 hours of work, easily within your skillset, and under $200 in parts. Do at least 2-3 more drain and fills, spacing them out, as you gauge the transmission's response to the fluid changes.

Do you have any sort of a walk through, diagram, or write up that shows where this is all at and how to do it properly? I'm not opposed to spending a few more dollars at this point if I end up keeping it. Like I said before, I haven't done anything half way by trying to cut corners.

That being said, I still feel like the front passenger suspension is not right. Some bumps in the road make it still sound like something is loose. Between swapping all of the old parts for new and having the 4 wheel alignment done again last week for the 2nd time, I have no clue what could be loose. It's real disheartening after so much money and time went in to fixing it. This is the same problem that I started with when I first bought the car. Another reason for thinking of throwing in the towel for a different car and seeking a realistic value.

I am glad this has turned into a good discussion all the way around though!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SHOdded]

Aftermarket parts (including sway bar links, control arms, strut mounts, etc) can cause this type of problem sometimes simply because they are torqued a bit differently than one would expect. Ran into this on some Edge vehicles with KYB struts.

As far as the work involved for the sensors, it is very similar to what goes on with the 6F50, so I will post a video link which should help give a good overview.

Quick Note: The PCM has adaptives, but so does the transmission TCM (solenoid body assembly). Sometimes if trans behavior seems to stick despite a KAM reset, you have to directly reset the TCM adaptives using IDS/a high end scan tool.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Aftermarket parts (including sway bar links, control arms, strut mounts, etc) can cause this type of problem sometimes simply because they are torqued a bit differently than one would expect. Ran into this on some Edge vehicles with KYB struts.

As far as the work involved for the sensors, it is very similar to what goes on with the 6F50, so I will post a video link which should help give a good overview.

Quick Note: The PCM has adaptives, but so does the transmission TCM (solenoid body assembly). Sometimes if trans behavior seems to stick despite a KAM reset, you have to directly reset the TCM adaptives using IDS/a high end scan tool.

I didnt watch the video. 8 want to add if you replace the solenoid body, the pcm has/should be re-programmed with the new solenoid ID and strategy.

 

[bpopilek]

Aftermarket parts (including sway bar links, control arms, strut mounts, etc) can cause this type of problem sometimes simply because they are torqued a bit differently than one would expect. Ran into this on some Edge vehicles with KYB struts.

The struts are made by Monroe and the half shafts are genuine Ford parts. I don't recall right off on what brand I bought for the control arms and sway bar links. Is there any good way to determine what is causing the rattling?

Sometimes if trans behavior seems to stick despite a KAM reset, you have to directly reset the TCM adaptives using IDS/a high end scan tool.

Thanks for the video link, I will check that out later this weekend. What kind of scan tool would be needed? Is the IDS scanner a dealer only type unit, or would I be able to use my HP Tuner?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SHOdded]

A quick overview of IDS, yes dealer only.
https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/IDS/mcs/

You can often purchase VCM off of eBay for fairly cheap.

Otherwise you can use advanced handhelds from AUTEL or SNAPON (to name a couple) to perform the TCM/solenoid body adaptive reset. If you know someone with access to such tools (with Ford plugins - licensed from Ford), that would make it cheaper of course. But the dealer should charge more than 1 hour really to perform the update.

 

[SHOdded]

As far as the rattling, I am coming up empty. I am thinking of an unclipped wiring loom maybe, or a fenderwell fastener, that type of thing.

Monroe is good for emergency fixes, not really a long lasting solution. Strut mounts also by a wide margin should be Motorcraft. Moog control arms are pretty good, but again, I would have to give the "best" to Motorcraft. No one vendor seems to get it right everytime ...