Self Test Code Questions!?

[SHOracer14]

Well, I decided to run both KOEO and KOER self tests today to see if it would throw any new codes and help me figure out why this 93' is a slug. This is what came up but, have a few questions on some of them.
114- ACT out of self test range... I'm assuming I should just get another one but not too worried about it.
173- HEGO sensor indicates system rich (RH)... I'm lost one this one, I'm guessing RH means right head meaning front bank is rich... not too sure why though
219- SPOUT signal defaulted 10 degrees BTDC/SPOUT circuit open
213- SPOUT circuit open... I figured these two meant that the SPOUT was not there so I checked and it was. I then tried two other SPOUTS off of two good running cars with no change. I can't see any wires open or bad. Could there be a cut wire somewhere? Is there a ground or something for this? Or could this mean that the CID is bad?
225- knock sensor not sensed during diagnostic response test... I'm guessing that this is no problem as the knock sensor won't work unless there is detonation and I don't hear any pinging
All answers are much appreciated thank you!

 

[projectSHO89]

For the 114, 219, and 225 codes, see my signature.

The default to 10 BTDC is likely the reason your car feels like a dog.

The SPOUT jumper is is just a jumper plug. You will likely need the service documentation to properly diagnose it. In the meantime, perform a careful visual exam of the PCM and DIS connectors. Look for pushed, damaged, or corroded pins.

For the 173, make certain the cats are properly heated by performing the prerequistites for the KOER PCM Quick Test. If the prerequisites were met, check for fuel contaminated oil (a sign of a leaking injector or other over-rich mixture).

Steve

 

[38SHO]

I don't know what ACT stands for on the SHO but I use a scanner a lot at work, usually when a code comes back that such and such wasn't tested or is out of range it is problem with how you ran the test. Either you left the air conditioner on, didn't let the engine warm-up all the way etc.........

 

[rangerj]

The Air Charge Temperature sensor (ACT from 89 to 1992 - IAT 1993 and later). The temperature range built into the sensor is from 50 degrees F to 248 degrees F. If it is below 50 degrees F where you are working on the car then the computer is not going to get a response from the sensor other than it is out of range, because the temperature of the air surrounding the sensor is "out of the range".

Your O2 sensor is giving you a rich code. Look for the tell tale black exaust smoke. You can also pull the right bank plus to check for black sooty deposits which are also tell tale signs of a rich mixture. Actually the 173 code indicates that the sensor is not "switching" from rich to lean and back continuously. The question is, why? Is the engine actually rich, or is the sensor going bad?

The O2 sensors do not usually just quit working. They usually slow down in their reaction time to the changes in the mixture detected in the exaust gas, that is "switching", until they stop switching. If you ever get to watch an O2 sensor in "real time", via a scanner, it switches between rich and lean continuously and very rapidly.

The engine orientation is determined by reference to the driver looking out the window. The left side is the driver side and obviously the right side is the passenger side. So mentally look at the transverse mounted engine and rotate it 90 degrees. The left bank is by the radiator, that is the front of the car. Then the right bank is back by the firewall. rangerj

 

[SHOracer14]

For the 114, 219, and 225 codes, see my signature.

The default to 10 BTDC is likely the reason your car feels like a dog.

The SPOUT jumper is is just a jumper plug. You will likely need the service documentation to properly diagnose it. In the meantime, perform a careful visual exam of the PCM and DIS connectors. Look for pushed, damaged, or corroded pins.

For the 173, make certain the cats are properly heated by performing the prerequistites for the KOER PCM Quick Test. If the prerequisites were met, check for fuel contaminated oil (a sign of a leaking injector or other over-rich mixture).

Steve

I realize that the 10 degree ignition retard is why it probably feels so slow, I just can't igure out why... DIS is fine... I didn't think to check the PCM though, that's an idea.
For 173 I don't have cats (SS catless-y) and I let the car run for about 10 minutes before I did the tests so I still have no clue why that came up.

Your O2 sensor is giving you a rich code. Look for the tell tale black exaust smoke. You can also pull the right bank plus to check for black sooty deposits which are also tell tale signs of a rich mixture. Actually the 173 code indicates that the sensor is not "switching" from rich to lean and back continuously. The question is, why? Is the engine actually rich, or is the sensor going bad?

It doesn't seem to be running rich at all... in fact those 02 sensors are only 1 week old.

The engine orientation is determined by reference to the driver looking out the window. The left side is the driver side and obviously the right side is the passenger side. So mentally look at the transverse mounted engine and rotate it 90 degrees. The left bank is by the radiator, that is the front of the car. Then the right bank is back by the firewall. rangerj

Thanks for this tidbit as well... I always thought the reference point was from the front of the motor.

The Air Charge Temperature sensor (ACT from 89 to 1992 - IAT 1993 and later). The temperature range built into the sensor is from 50 degrees F to 248 degrees F. If it is below 50 degrees F where you are working on the car then the computer is not going to get a response from the sensor other than it is out of range, because the temperature of the air surrounding the sensor is "out of the range".

Ah yes it was 12 degrees out yesterday, that would explain the 114. I just wish it would warm up soon so I could really tear into this car. It must be in order for the convention... that's my goal.

 

[rangerj]

The Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) consists of several sensors, the Electronic Control Unit (ECU [aka das computer]), and the coil packs, plus all the connections and wires in between. So, you say the DIS is fine. Have you tested it? There are a series of test that can be done with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) and a LED test light probe. DO NOT use an analog (swing needle) multi meter, nor an incandescent light probe on these systems.

Do a search regarding "testing the DIS". There are several prior posts that have the DIS tests under my signature and others. The Spark Output default to 10 degrees is typically a DIS problem. SPOUT = Spark Output of the ECU = DIS.

Check the connections on your O2 sensors. If they are that new and causing a lack of switching code they, or it (one), may be faulty. It is rare to get a bad O-2 sensor out of the box, but it happens. The 173 codes indicates that the switches indicate a rich mixture, that is the O2 sensor is switching but stays on the rich side longer than the computer is programmed to expect.

Again, the question is WHY? Is the engine running rich? Pull a couple of plugs and find out. Check your air filter. Is it clean? Are your plugs and wires in good shape? Is your IAB clean and working? The IAB acts as a choke (sorta). Is there any air flow restriction such as leaves or debre?

Lastly, go to Amazon.com and order the following book:
How to Understand, Service and Modify Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control by Charles O. Probst, SAE. It is outstanding and a must is you are going to work on the electronics of your SHO. It is about $22.00.

This book was brought to our attention by Steve (projectsho89). Thanks again Steve. If I have misstated something here please feel free to jump in and correct me. :wave:

Keep us posted and we will see if we can get this sorted out with you.
rangerj

 

[SHOracer14]

Thanks again rangerj I'll keep you updated. I am pretty certain it is not an intake problem as I swapped the whole intake system (including all sensors) from my white car and the intake was cleaned, torn apart and put together with new gaskets only a month or so before the accident. I say the DIS should be fine because I ran the wrecked plus through it's paces one last time before I started to take parts off of her and this was only one day before installing it on the 93'. All of my connections look good and anything even iffy I cleaned what little corrosion was there. The only things I haven't touched on this car are the coil packs, plug wires and computer so I suppose I'll start with those easy switches with parts that I have on hand that I know are in good working order and see where that leaves me.

 

[SHOracer14]

Well.... I'm getting ever closer to figuring out the gremlin on the 93' but have run into another dead end. I now have the LOS computer from the plus installed, plug wires from the 91' (motorcrafts only a coupld of years old) and swapped the coil packs from the 91'. I know the components from the 91 were in perfect working order so I knew if I ran into more problems it would have to be a sensor or connection or something stupid like that. Well after I installed all those parts the car does run better but still not up to par. My low end hesitation is gone and the RPM's climb much smoother (albeit still a little slowly). After running around for a little bit I took the car back and ran the codes again. This time only one code (did not run the running test) came up and it was 49. This brings me back to the ignition still being clocked back 10 degrees. SPOUT jumper connections are fine, coil packs are good, DIS connections are good, and all connections are clean and fine. I rooted around under the hood for a limited time last night looking for bad grounds. What could this be? Now that I've eliminated the possiblility of bad plug wires, coil packs and computer.... what are the next steps I should take and what components should I look into replacing. I must tackle this problem! The only other problem I noticed was that the VSS seems to be going out as the idle drops very low (about 500-600) when I put it in neutral and am rolling at speed. The VSS doesn't have anything to do with this does it?

 

[SHOracer14]

I finally got it figured out! Thanks for all the helpo guys and especially to Perry (pjtoledo) who helped me run through the wiring diagram over the internet without his help I would have never found the problem. The wire for the SPOUT #1 (by firewall) was pulled out of the plastiuc cover ever so slighty that you would never notice. Once I got it back together this car just wants to eat up the road. I think it may be faster than my plus was.... I can just taste the 14.7's

 

[rangerj]

I love happy endings!

This is the perfect place and time to repeat the advice given by Steve (projectsho89), SDPatt, SHOZ123, PJtoledo, and others, including myself. The first step in diagnosing a problem is to check the connections. Look for corrosion, bent pins or spade connectors, loose pins or spade connectors, loose or broken wire connections, wires that have rubbed through and are being shorted, poor ground connections, and lastly a V-ref wire that has been trapped between the transmission and the engine block by mistake .

Connections, connections, connections! rangerj