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BaySHO Performance

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I've had Koni, Tokico, KYB GR2 and Monroe Sensatracs on my cars. The Monroes are stiffer and better matched with Eibach springs than the KYBs.

Moog make springs: do they also make struts?
 

Jbeck

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Your KYB comment: That's how my Konis are - in the rear. They are consistent performers even when I'm towing a heavy load. I think the front has too much additional weight for the valving when at speed, as only the front gets floaty - and becomes a handful in uneven corners or corners with bumps. At low speeds, when cranked down, the entire car rattles in the front, but doesn't lose composure.
Your description it spot on! I went with the SS coilovers for this build...the tailored valving and adjustability should be able to remedy all of those issues, I have heard of users disconnecting the front sway bars because they didnt need them after the SS coilover installs....that is some impressive valving!
 

NoSlo

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Don't know why it hasn't been brought up, but the stock Motorcraft struts can still be found if you go down a long path of looking for the right part numbers.
 

BaySHO Performance

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Don't know why it hasn't been brought up, but the stock Motorcraft struts can still be found if you go down a long path of looking for the right part numbers.

Don't have all of them:
Strut, front 89-91 AM-931-G - SHO F7AZ-18124-HB
Strut, rear 93-94 AM-610-G - SHO F4DZ-18125-D
Strut, rear 95 AM-616-G - SHO F5DZ-18125-B
 

TankII

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Latest update:
The Gabriel Ultras arrived yesterday.
Today, I replaced the driver's side Koni (Rebuilt less than 5K miles ago) with one of the new struts and took it for a drive. Note, the passenger's side is still a Monroe Sensatrac for this test.
Results:
Significantly better ride on driver's side over potholes. Car lost a few rattles!
Zero float at highway speeds over some washboards highways near my house.
Flatter cornering when turning left - On-ramp near my house, ~ 55 MPH 90 degree turn.

So, I replaced the passenger's side next.
With the same strut on both sides, the bumpy roads got a bit firmer (Couple old rattles returned). No significant changes at highway speeds - Maybe firmer? - but cornering was even flatter, both directions on the highway ramp.

Verdict (With Eibachs):
Gabriel Ultras are a definite replacement for Monroe Sensatracs. Significantly better than Monroe OE Spectrum which are comparable to the old Gabriel Gas-Ryder struts - Too soft! Better highway control than Koni and softer over sub 50MPH potholes at the same time.

I can definitely recommend these struts - Which are on sale for a crazy closeout price @ Rock-Auto!
 

luigisho

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Thanks for the feedback. Something to consider.

I'm sure this is a second/part time car but I would like to hear about how they hold up over some miles. Most of the criticism is durability with either car weight or spring weight wearing them out over not alot of time. So if it pops to mind down the line update for the archive.
 

NoSlo

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BTW, although there could be other part numbers to be discovered, the most widely available Motorcraft strut is ASTV-29 (5U2Z18V124UA) - about $41. 90-95 Taurus (fit note 54, 74 which means SHO and Police, although this may be also standard Taurus valving).

L1heeIB

The older part number you can look for is 2U2Z-18124-DA, I only found one:
74X7XZ2

Combine with E6DZ-5310-AJ "J" code spring, F1DZ-18183-AA Strut Mount (or F1DZ-18183-BA police, or Moog K8822 camber plate), and F4DZ-3B455-A (or newer 3F2Z-3B455-AA) Top spring seat and bearing, and you get a stock SHO back.
 
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TankII

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I will keep everyone informed about the long-term testing, ans thanks for all the OEM part numbers!
 

zak

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Just wanted to note have a complete set of low mileage (< 30 K) 1995 SHO OEM shocks and struts kicking around . . . and not that far away. More details in my Classified ad.
 

tracy_s_1993_atx

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Greetings,
Which Koni struts did you remove? I am looking for a Koni 8641-1281 Sport insert. I would be willing to purchase your Koni inserts if you have the model I mentioned.

Thanks,
Michael
Latest update:
The Gabriel Ultras arrived yesterday.
Today, I replaced the driver's side Koni (Rebuilt less than 5K miles ago) with one of the new struts and took it for a drive. Note, the passenger's side is still a Monroe Sensatrac for this test.
Results:
Significantly better ride on driver's side over potholes. Car lost a few rattles!
Zero float at highway speeds over some washboards highways near my house.
Flatter cornering when turning left - On-ramp near my house, ~ 55 MPH 90 degree turn.

So, I replaced the passenger's side next.
With the same strut on both sides, the bumpy roads got a bit firmer (Couple old rattles returned). No significant changes at highway speeds - Maybe firmer? - but cornering was even flatter, both directions on the highway ramp.

Verdict (With Eibachs):
Gabriel Ultras are a definite replacement for Monroe Sensatracs. Significantly better than Monroe OE Spectrum which are comparable to the old Gabriel Gas-Ryder struts - Too soft! Better highway control than Koni and softer over sub 50MPH potholes at the same time.

I can definitely recommend these struts - Which are on sale for a crazy closeout price @ Rock-Auto!
 

TankII

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Greetings,
Which Koni struts did you remove? I am looking for a Koni 8641-1281 Sport insert. I would be willing to purchase your Koni inserts if you have the model I mentioned.

Thanks,
Michael
Only one strut insert remains. I have to look up the part number and get back to you. I bought the complete set in the mid-late 90's
 

tracy_s_1993_atx

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Found this on a Fiesta ST forum:
Truechoice in Ohio is adept at rebuilding/revalving Koni products

Thanks for the information about rebuild shops. for the Koni inserts. I have a front set I removed when one of the inserts failed when the strut shaft cracked where the threads meet the solid shaft. One place I contacted wants $400 to fix that strut and $250 to rebuild the other. I will call Truechoice and check their prices on rebuilds.

The SHO currently has a set of working Koni inserts, but I want to have a spare good set on the shelf for when I need them.

Michael
 

luigisho

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Thanks for the information about rebuild shops. for the Koni inserts. I have a front set I removed when one of the inserts failed when the strut shaft cracked where the threads meet the solid shaft. One place I contacted wants $400 to fix that strut and $250 to rebuild the other. I will call Truechoice and check their prices on rebuilds.

Michael
Post back with info if you contact Truechoice vs the other price quotes. Might help someone out in 38 months. You never know when these topics pop back up.
 

TankII

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Update with a few thousand miles on the struts.
Fronts - Much better overall, car is significantly flatter in the corners. Some corners I used to lean significantly with the Konis (even when fresh rebuilt) and now I don't lean nearly as much - it feels like I can go way beyond the capabilities of the BFG G-Force Sport 2's if I want (I can get it squirrely even with 41 lbs of air). Kind of wish the old KDW (first gen) was still around as that was the only 225/50-16 I had on the stock rims that was at the limit of the suspension. Anyone got a good modern equivalent? Note, it cantilevers the tires on the stock 6" rims quite a bit, so more air = less traction on takeoff. I *might* pick up a set of 17" Fusion/C-Max rims if I decide to never Autocross the car again in GS.

I also replaced the rears (special @ Rockauto for under $10.00 each!) but one was squishy before I installed it. Because I needed the car running, I put it in anyway. I can feel it vibrating a bit on the highway in that corner. The other corner is solid enough it's OK for now. I'll probably pick up another rear because at that price, can't beat it!
I'll be putting the Koni inserts (and modified Motorcraft housings) up for sale soon. Two rears, one front.
 

PaulTAutoX

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= <edit>
....Note, it cantilevers the tires on the stock 6" rims quite a bit, so more air = less traction on takeoff. I *might* pick up a set of 17" Fusion/C-Max rims if I decide to never Autocross the car again in GS.
<snip>.

Good News! If you do go to an SCCA event all the Gen I/II are in H Street now. (Gen III and up are in GS.) Also, if you re-size wheels, you are now allowed a +1 rim diameter with no penalty. But you can't change width, and you can't offset more than 7mm more. You ARE also allowed to size up the sway bar at one end of the car, your choice. Still a no on replacing bushings though.
 
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TankII

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So... my 220 BHP performance sedan is in the same class as my first autocross sedan, a 55 BHP 71 Plymouth Cricket...
 
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