Rusty Y-Pipe Bolt Removal

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CWhalenSHO

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I'm trying to remove my y-pipe to do my rod bearings and then install my SHO Source Y-pipe. I have soaked all of the bolts/nuts in PB blaster a few times everyday for the past 3 days. They still aren't budging.

Is there anything else I do or use to help loosen these up?

I'm not bad a turning wrenches but need some tips and tricks from the Veteran SHO Medics on here.

:thankyou:
 

Vnuk1

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Use a torch and heat them up till they are glowing red then give them a good wrenching on. A little heat has always worked for stubborn stuff like that.
 

Big D

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if you don't have access to oxy/acet. torches, get a bernzomatic w/map gas. Heat's em up quicker than the propane cylinders.
 

K-Dawg

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Milw6523_21.jpg
 

CWhalenSHO

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I'm with K-Dawg on this one. :evilgrin:

Massive amounts of heat was going to be my next step. Thought I would throw it out there to see if someone else knew any other trick that would work before I went the heat route.

I don't have access to a oxy/acet torch so the Bernzo is my next step.
 

38SHO

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here is the way to REALLY fix this problem, or you can run into it multiple more times, or just ruin your day when your trying to put it together sunday afternoon and u gotta goto work with it monday morning...... I'm the type of person, if I work on it and take the time, I'm gonna do it right.......

since your removing your old y pipe and replacing it with a new y pipe.....

cut off old stock y pipe just after the exhaust manifold connection, cut off the 2 bolts on the catback connection..... remove from there, remove oxygen sensor wires.....

pull off old y pipe, throw away everything so far.....

remove exhaust manifolds from heads and put them on a table/bench/ground whatever your preferred working surface.....

now you have two options at this point

A)probably best option

find some used exhaust manifolds that aren't rusted to shit with bad studs on them, and replace your old ones with these, install new y pipe, install new hardware, have a happy time removing your y-pipe from now on and its never a pain in the ass....

Believe it or not, all the manifold studs, nuts, and manifold to head nuts on my old 3.0 engine look brand new and shiney, come right on and off... I boxed all that stuff up for a rainy day.... so its not hard to find good used stuff if you look around....


B)Cheaper, more work option

remove old studs, with torch try to get them out, if they snap off, oh well..... get out drill, and I'm not a fan of ezouts, sure they sometimes work, and sometimes they break off inside, and they are harder then drill bits, good luck getting it out at that point

so if you removed the studs successfully, inspect the threads inside the manifolds, repair if nessecary, replace with a new stud/nut set......

if you have to drill it out, repair the threads, insert new hardware, on down the road you go.....

reason why I tell you to remove the exhaust manifolds is, because at this point it is 100x easier to work on them with them off... it really isn't that hard to take off the manifolds.... especially if you have to drill anything, and its a lot easier with torches working on it with the manifolds off the car.....
 

Brett

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Couldn't get mine loose for the life of me, coated them in PB blaster, came back some 26-30 hours later and they came right out, but my car was gone through a year or so before.
 

AREA 91

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Use heat to remove the old ones.
You DO NOT want to break off the old studs in the manifolds. This will ruin your day! BTDT.

Replace the studs with new ones from the HELP rack part #03101. They come with brass nuts, thay are nice for removing, just don't over torque them.

I have done MANY this way.
 

CWhalenSHO

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My fear is that I will end up breaking the studs on the exhaust manifold. I know I will be screwed at that point.

I figure I might just take it to an muffler shop to have the old y-pipe removed and install the SHO Source y-pipe. This way, if they break it, they can deal with fixing it :angelnot:

I want the SHO Source Y-pipe to be welded together as well. I don't have a welder nor have I ever fused to pieces of metal together before in my life. Figure the muffler the place can do this as well.
 

Big D

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I guarantee they'll want at LEAST 400 bucks just to take that y pipe off.... Keep in mind, even though THEY break it, YOU pay for it..... Good luck...
 

93rev2sev

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Break the studs if you have to.

Power-Tools-Die-Grinder-4252-.jpg


Stronger than a dremel, but straight so you can cut the studs off flush with the manifold ******. Then, it's just a matter of drilling and re-tapping the ******.
 
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CWhalenSHO

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I guarantee they'll want at LEAST 400 bucks just to take that y pipe off.... Keep in mind, even though THEY break it, YOU pay for it..... Good luck...

Are you kidding me?! $400!! Screw that! If I end up breaking them off, I'll just deal with it...

I'll just take 92Rev's advise on how to fix. Plan on trying to get this taken care of this weekend. Once this sucker if off, I'm doing the rod bearings.

I'll keep everyone posted. Wish me luck. I'm gonna need it.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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Are you kidding me?! $400!! Screw that! If I end up breaking them off, I'll just deal with it...

I'll just take 92Rev's advise on how to fix. Plan on trying to get this taken care of this weekend. Once this sucker if off, I'm doing the rod bearings.

I'll keep everyone posted. Wish me luck. I'm gonna need it.

I call ******** on the 400 bucks. it takes an hour to remove it if EVERYTHING goes wrong. and maybe another hour to fix it. unless labour rates are 200 bucks an hour i call BS
 

RStalveyARFF

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I think I paid an hour's labor to have manifold studs replaced on my rust belt car, I don't see much being charged above that to simply swap a y-pipe.
 

Phoenix

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When mine broke on my old beater , I drilled all the way through the topped stud , then I passed a long bolt in there with some washers and voila. It dont have to be complicated where it doesnt need to be.
 

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