FOSHO94
Chillin
I was wondering if anybody has any procedures for removing rust off their cars. Rust is starting to get pretty bad on my car and I wanna fix it ASAP. Heres two spots where its the worst.
Rust
- Thread starter FOSHO94
- Start date
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twr
whoohoo
What's rust??? 
UnsungZero
New Member
Sand Blasting, DA , Por-15, Sand, Prime, sand, Paint, Wetsand, Done
FOSHO94
Chillin
jeez, i guess that won't be getting fixed, cause i have no idea how to do what you just said
awb85
New Member
Hey, you're better off than my car —
sections of my rocker panel are gone (including the hanger strip for the clading). I'm gonna practice (start and learn) welding techniques after I form some sheet metal...
working on getting in touch with some brakes and a sheet metal sheer and a roller thing for making a new hanger strip.
sections of my rocker panel are gone (including the hanger strip for the clading). I'm gonna practice (start and learn) welding techniques after I form some sheet metal...
working on getting in touch with some brakes and a sheet metal sheer and a roller thing for making a new hanger strip.
UnsungZero
New Member
it's really not that hard....go to a library or bookstore and there is possibly some kind of book to teach you the basics of bodywork.
all you need is time, patience and the tools
the cost shouldn't be too high if you do it yourself
all you need is time, patience and the tools
the cost shouldn't be too high if you do it yourself
FOSHO94
Chillin
what kind of tools would i need?
UnsungZero
New Member
start off with a dual action sander (about 70 bucks from sears maybe less)
a 6" sander/buffer probably around 100 dollars from sears too
and numerous discs of sandpaper from 80-1200 grit
if you have car buddies one em probably already has this stuff.
POR-15 is a rust inhibitor that works rather well
IIRC you can buy from summit or maybe AZ
primer and paint you can probably figure out where to get it.
Start with the rocker panel rust first (because it's semi hidden) for practice.
a 6" sander/buffer probably around 100 dollars from sears too
and numerous discs of sandpaper from 80-1200 grit
if you have car buddies one em probably already has this stuff.
POR-15 is a rust inhibitor that works rather well
IIRC you can buy from summit or maybe AZ
primer and paint you can probably figure out where to get it.
Start with the rocker panel rust first (because it's semi hidden) for practice.
rangerj
Active Member
FOSHO94,
If it is just surface rust, that is it is not all the way through the metal, you can clean ALL of the rust off of the metal with a wire brush. The easiest way I found is to use a wire brush attachment for a drill. These come in different sizes and shapes, and are available at hardware stores or home centers. Clean the area with something like lacquer thinner, before you begin the work, to remove any grease, oil, or tar, that you do not want to grind into the metal.
Once the metal is cleaned of all rust it can be primed. The sharp edges of the paint in the area worked on should be "feather edged" with something like 360 or 400 grit wet or dry sand paper.
There are more agressive grit papers but you should get experience with something a little less agressive. If you have any deep spots you can fill them with a body putty, but DO NOT use some discount store blue light special body putty (aka Bondo). Get some professional stuff from an auto paint and body supply store. Eastwood (see below) sells a quart size of a quality body filler, tubes of glazing puty, and quarts of primer sealer.
When the body work is complete up to the primer, it must be sealed with a sealer. Sealer/primers are ok, but it is best to use a seperate sealer over the primer. You should be able to get these in spray cans at an auto parts store, or paint and body supply store.
Prime the area again, and sand some more untill the old paint edges are not visible. The area should be smooth. When it is a smooth flat surface put a coat of sealer over it. Now you are ready for color.
Note: Any area that is rusted through should be repaired with metal "mig" welded in place. 3 M (MMM) sells an adhesive that will bond metal to metal as strong as a weld. The product should be available from auto parts stores, or paint and body supply stores. I hva not tried this stuff, so I have no opinion as to its quality, ease to work with, or value.
See www.eastwood.com (or 1-800-345-1178) for their "Rust Encapsulator", which will prime and seal and neutralize any rust you cannot get at, such as in a weld seam. This stuff works. "Auto Restorer" magazine tested this stuff against several other rust prevention or sealing products and it came out the best. I've been using it for about 10 years, and it works. It comes in black, silver, and a primer red color. You can get pints, quarts, gallons, or 16oz spray cans. You thin it with lacquer thinner.
The above should get you started. rangerj
If it is just surface rust, that is it is not all the way through the metal, you can clean ALL of the rust off of the metal with a wire brush. The easiest way I found is to use a wire brush attachment for a drill. These come in different sizes and shapes, and are available at hardware stores or home centers. Clean the area with something like lacquer thinner, before you begin the work, to remove any grease, oil, or tar, that you do not want to grind into the metal.
Once the metal is cleaned of all rust it can be primed. The sharp edges of the paint in the area worked on should be "feather edged" with something like 360 or 400 grit wet or dry sand paper.
There are more agressive grit papers but you should get experience with something a little less agressive. If you have any deep spots you can fill them with a body putty, but DO NOT use some discount store blue light special body putty (aka Bondo). Get some professional stuff from an auto paint and body supply store. Eastwood (see below) sells a quart size of a quality body filler, tubes of glazing puty, and quarts of primer sealer.
When the body work is complete up to the primer, it must be sealed with a sealer. Sealer/primers are ok, but it is best to use a seperate sealer over the primer. You should be able to get these in spray cans at an auto parts store, or paint and body supply store.
Prime the area again, and sand some more untill the old paint edges are not visible. The area should be smooth. When it is a smooth flat surface put a coat of sealer over it. Now you are ready for color.
Note: Any area that is rusted through should be repaired with metal "mig" welded in place. 3 M (MMM) sells an adhesive that will bond metal to metal as strong as a weld. The product should be available from auto parts stores, or paint and body supply stores. I hva not tried this stuff, so I have no opinion as to its quality, ease to work with, or value.
See www.eastwood.com (or 1-800-345-1178) for their "Rust Encapsulator", which will prime and seal and neutralize any rust you cannot get at, such as in a weld seam. This stuff works. "Auto Restorer" magazine tested this stuff against several other rust prevention or sealing products and it came out the best. I've been using it for about 10 years, and it works. It comes in black, silver, and a primer red color. You can get pints, quarts, gallons, or 16oz spray cans. You thin it with lacquer thinner.
The above should get you started. rangerj
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