Rust removal and prevention

[CademiaX]

So, I don't have a very big rust problem yet. I have decided to remove it all and rhino line the bottom of the car

Anyone have any idea how much weight that would add? I don't care to much, this car is my daily driver. Just looking to increase the value of the car for that sad day that I sell it off...

 

[Eric VerValin]

I know what I think I like... is that 3m underbody coating stuff.. its like 8 bux a can.. might take 5 cans.. maybe 8.. depends on how thick you like it.

When you leave the store, put them all in the same bag, and thats about how much weight you'll add..


If you get it rhino lined... tape off all your bolts first! and brake lines... the bolt on your parking brake cables... stuff like that. Those guys tend to blast everything.. Oh yea, and its really expensive too in comparison..

 

[rubydist]

Yeah, the 3M stuff is a better choice, its made for that and not as thick, heavy, or expensive as the Rhino lining stuff. But, you need to have all the rust removed first, or else it will continue to rot under the undercoating. And, like Eric said, make sure that anything you ever plan to remove, adjust, etc. is taped off or you will have a rough time working on it later....

 

[ultimatesho]

i know last week when we was up in Louisville they had some sort of can of underliner stuff.....cant remember the name of it tho, came in a huge tin can (kinda like the older gas cans).......IIRC it was $20

 

[strykr14]

I put POR-15 on the entire undercarriage of my car. I wirebrushed the whole floor and then painted it w/POR15. Stuff is harder than woodpecker teeth. $40 bucks bought me a can that enabled me to paint the whole undercarriage. It wasn't easy, I removed everything (exhaust, shifter, rear suspension, gas tank, brake lines) and spent about 2 days cleaning it up. BTW, if you go this route, DONT GET POR15 ON YOUR SKIN! I speak from experience. I posted pics under this forum, do a search, you'll see'm.

 

[SHOZ123]

POR 15 is a PITA. Too thin and too much prep. I have a can unopened if any one is looking.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

How much and how much?

(ie. how much do you have and for how much?)

 

[TwistedD85]

The aircooled VW guys swear by POR 15 and I dare say we'll never have rust problems as bad as they do unless you submerge the thing in a vat of salt water. I think it's originally meant to coat the inside of gas tanks, correctly me if I'm wrong. But with POR 15 you technically don't have to clean the rust off, while it prevents rust in the first place it also prevents existing rust from progressing any further, it's pretty good stuff.

 

[SHOZ123]

Well you obviously can't paint over flacking rust. They recommend removing the loose stuff, then treating the rust with some of the zinc stuff first, I use the spray on Rust Converter. Yes it is very good paint but not the indestructible stuff it's claimed to be.

I have a quart of blue never opened, pint of silver over coat never opened and a quart of black opened once.

 

[platoribs]

I've been using a Rustoleum product called "rust converter" bought at Menards for ~$5/can. Seems to work well and didn't flake off of the caliper during bed in of new 96 upgraded brakes. I've now done all four wheel wells and everything contained within.

I like it!
:sun:

 

[pjtoledo]

Whatever product you choose, its the application process that will matter the most. Specifically, you have to get the stuff into the seams and into cracks 'n stuff as well as into both sides of each rocker panel. Plus there is a huge cavity where the rear sub frame bolts/nuts are, that part is where the structures of the body all come together. Simply covering over parts will actually seal the moisture and "corrosion in progress" in and allow it to continue to rust from the inside.