rough under laod

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shaldaya

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I just did a clutch change, and the car was working perfect before, and I thought I put everything together right
but now when I start moving, the whole car shakes violently, and the engine seems like it just can't handle the load (even when I feather release the clutch) but oddly it is completely fine in reverse.
I assume i missed/screwed up a sensor, but I am completely clueless what it could be, any assistance would be really appreciated

also, out of gear, it idles and revs perfect, only starts shaking when I try to go forward
 
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AREA 91

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Clutch chatter?
Did you resurface the flywheel?
Motor mounts good?
 

shaldaya

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i actually pulled out the clutch and replaced the pressure plate with an old one (found a some small cracks I didn't like) then cleaned up the clutch and flywheel, I had a hose burst and antifreeze got on the clutch and made it stick

also, it really does not feel like the clutch, and I did find an injector leak, so I worry fuel leaked down somewhere and did some damage to the crank sensor

also, it no longer idles fine, the idle sounds like absolute SHIT!!! misfiring under idle
 

BaySHO Performance

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CPS is fine. Car wouldn't start if bad, and the leaking injector is too far away to have affected it.
In your first post, you said the idle is fine, in the second you said it isn't. I assume your second post was correct?
You could try to pull the codes to see if they tell you anything. If none, it may be that it's not running on all cylinders.
 

shaldaya

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I got tried the getting the engine code by shorting it out, all I got was 3 flashes
so I assume that would be code 3, but I am having trouble finding the code page on this sho forum
 

shaldaya

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I got the codes 21 91 13 77
when I look them up they say
21- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
91- System running lean - Fuel control Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
13- Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
77- System did not receive "goose" test

I have no idea what any of these could point to as my issue
 

luigisho

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iab/iac could make a car run like doo doo at idle. So could a large vacuum leak. Did you do anything to the top of the motor when you did the clutch change? Starnge that change of clutch now runs bad. O2 wiring get messed up? Thinking of what you could have physically touched that has an effect on running. Did you go back and check your work on the clutch itself? Faulty coolant sensor can throw a code I forget what or how much that throws off running.
 

shaldaya

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the iac is brand new (that was a previous problem) and I tested vacuum leak by disconnecting the vacuum hoses and temporarily blocking them.
O2 sensors are possible, but I doubt because I always remove the exhaust and o2 sensors before lowering the engine
and I have had bad coolant sensors before, and it does throw a code, but doesn't effect the engine much, so I doubt that's related to this
checking the clutch might reveal something, but I hesitate because of the time consumption

I did disconnect the injectors because I had a bad o-ring, and that dropped a lot of fuel, and I worry it all fell on the crank sensor
 

Okhuysen

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Hello I'm still being new because i don't whrite a Lot :p ... If did you remove the DIS module, it's necesary put back with the four bolts because their it necesary by grounding cuestions. I haved a similar event at the past because I used 2 of the 4 bolts and toast my DIS. I hope helped you about. Regards! And yes, my English is little but i try to practice in each oporunity :)
 

BaySHO Performance

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I got the codes 21 91 13 77
when I look them up they say
21- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
91- System running lean - Fuel control Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
13- Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
77- System did not receive "goose" test

I have no idea what any of these could point to as my issue

So you did a KOER (Key On Engine Running) as opposed to a KOEO (Key On Engine Off). You might try a KOEO instead.

Correction on the following:

13 was generated because the low RPM check couldn't control the RPMs. This may point to a bad ISC, but may be something else.

91 the O2 Sensor in question is the left (front one) which indicates the engine is running lean on that bank.

21 (ECT) would not cause rough running. It's purpose is to let the PCM know to turn the fan on when the engine gets hot.

None of these codes would cause the car to shake like you described. So could it be clutch judder that happens as you are engaging gear because the flywheel wasn't resurfaced? Or does it shake when the clutch is fully engaged and the car is moving? If the latter I suspect it's not running on all cylinders. That could throw the code 13.
 

shaldaya

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engine shaking may not be the perfect description, its like the engine is struggling to stay running, even at idle it misfires a lot also, and the misfires get exponentially worse, sounding like something will explode at only 3,500

the clutch work was done because a cooling hose burst and antifreeze got on the clutch, so what my brother and father are thinking is the antifreeze got somewhere else that will cause many problems

also, I have to agree with not running on all cylinders, that would certainly make the most sense thus far, I am just scratching my head on why
 

shaldaya

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Hello I'm still being new because i don't whrite a Lot :p ... If did you remove the DIS module, it's necesary put back with the four bolts because their it necesary by grounding cuestions. I haved a similar event at the past because I used 2 of the 4 bolts and toast my DIS. I hope helped you about. Regards! And yes, my English is little but i try to practice in each oporunity :)

I do remove the dis module, but I only remove the 2 bolts holding the crossover tube, thank you for the assistance though
my father also thinks there is a grounding issue, just elsewhere
 

luigisho

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Hello I'm still being new because i don't whrite a Lot :p ... If did you remove the DIS module, it's necesary put back with the four bolts because their it necesary by grounding cuestions. I haved a similar event at the past because I used 2 of the 4 bolts and toast my DIS. I hope helped you about. Regards! And yes, my English is little but i try to practice in each oporunity :)
Welcome! and your English is better than my Spanish.
 

BaySHO Performance

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I wonder if antifreeze got into the plug wells? I suggest checking them. Causes the car to backfire like mad, and can blow a catalytic converter.
 

NoSlo

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I got the codes 21 91 13 77
when I look them up they say
21- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
91- System running lean - Fuel control Transmission SS 1 circuit/solenoid problem - Transmissions
13- Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
77- System did not receive "goose" test

I have no idea what any of these could point to as my issue

Those codes are consistent with an engine running test, where you didn't warm up the car and didn't provide the proper gas pedal and steering input at the right time. 91 is only transmission if from engine-off test. 13 can be if you pressed the gas pedal at the wrong time.

Bucking from misfire can be spark or fuel. Spark: Coil, spark plug wires (and order), fouled plugs, contaminated plug wells, ignition module. Normally wouldn't be fuel on a SHO, but you've been messing with the injectors. It changing symptoms without you doing anything can be a loose connector, shorting wire, or heat-related as spark well oil or DIS ignition module failure often are.

At the conclusion of the key-on-engine-running test code readout, you can also do the cylinder balance test by stomping the gas pedal for a second. It will run for about two minutes, cutting one cylinder at a time, and codes will read out the poor cylinder(s).
 

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