You might want to get started now on designing or finding more robust slider and universal couplings for the base of the Taurus steering shaft. The OEM couplings that are there now are barely up to the task of running the power-assisted rack, and asking them to put up with non-assisted steering loads is inviting premature wear, and possibly unexpected failure.
I want you to drive down a desolate road, then turn off the key while the car is in motion and try to steer. I think you will learn very quickly that removing the power steering is not a smart thing to do.
Not a fair test, here's why:
In order for a power assisted rack to operate without the PS pump running, it has to be able to passsively circulate fluid in both directions from the pressure and return ports. Two things prevent this:
1. The PS pump effectively prevents driving fluid backwards through the pressure line, and into the pump.
2. There is a one-way check valve in the Taurus' steering rack pressure port that prevents fluid flow back to the pump.
In the Mustang community, we convert power steer cars to manual all the time by simply putting a loop of tubing between the pressure and return ports and letting a small amount of PS fluid passively circulate. Some folks actually do it right and replace the 15:1 power rack with a early model 20:1 manual rack. Most often this is done on skinny-tired drag race cars. You will find that the sizable majority of serious road race Mustangs (SCCA A-Sedan and NASA AI/AIX cars) have fully functioning, though often highly modified power steering systems.
I'm not saying don't do this, I honestly don't give a flying crap what most of you do; but be prepared to do some competent re-engineering, be prepared for higher steering efforts, be prepared for parts to break more often, and make sure you pull the check valve out of the pressure port.
Good luck.