Removing Front Endlinks

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BallsoutSHO

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Any suggestions on breaking these guys loose. I can for the life of me get it. sprayed them down with pb blaster. im going to see if i can fine an 8mm socket that is more than 1/4" drive since that isnt cutting it. I have the plastic endlinks on these you have to move the nut not the 8mm bolt right?
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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It should be an 18mm nut. I use a slim end wrench (18 mm) to hold the backside, and an 18 mm socket/wratchet for the nut.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Ah shoot, I forgot that my Moog endlinks are a bit different than stock.

Yes, you need to hold the 8MM stud, while turning on the 18MM nut.

When I emoved the original end links on my SHO, I used a large pair of vise grips to hold the stud securely. If you position it properly, it will bind against the strut when you are wrenching on the 18mm nut, so you do not need to hold the stud. :thumb:

click the link.... (see if this works)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/0c/13/da/0900823d800c13da.jsp
 

BallsoutSHO

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thanks for the good info. ill try tomorrow after the pb blaster has sat on it over night hopefully that works or else ill have wasted 10 bucks on my new swaybar.
 

NJSHO

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This is a case to break out the hammers. Try hitting the stud or the bolt to break up some of the crud in the threads. If that doesnt work put a 18mm closed end wrench on the nut and beat on the end of it with the hammer (poor mans impact?) After that break out the air tools. When reinstalling try putting some anti-seze on it.
 

Shoaz

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All of it turns, so you can either hold the 18mm nut still and turn the 8mm stud, or vice-versa. I've found that holding the nut still with a box-end wrench and then using a good deep socket to turn the 8mm stud works reasonably well.

They are definitely a PITA, though.
 

BallsoutSHO

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I thought that i read on here that you can only turn the nut or else you destroy the bearing which im not trying to do, obviously. id like to keep the endlink in one piece so i dont have to get new ones. And it doesnt seem as though there is anyway to get any of my air tools in there. Oh well ill see what happens
 

pjtoledo

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Drill two holes in the nut, one on each side of the stud and parallel to the stud. That will weaken the nuts to where a chisel can split them. If you are careful it won't damage the stud, then just buy new nuts.
I've also found a Craftman 8mm boxed end wrench is wide enough and long enough to work on the studs.
Another option is to take the bit out of a 8mm (or 5/16) hex and use the socket part, its usually quite deep.
By far the fastest way is to rip about 6 knuckles to the consistency of hamburger, the nuts just fall off at that point.


Perry
 

godspunk32

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Ian, didn't you learn this when we did Timmy's car?

I have nothing more to add, except that if you don't get that sway bar in, and all that time laying on the junkyard ground, dealing with 17 year old rusted subframe bolts goes to waste, I'm coming out to Philly and kicking your ass! :biggrin:

JR
 

BallsoutSHO

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well good news jr i got it all taken care of and man is it a sweet combination. i love it. thanks for all of your help in that freezing junkyard.
 

godspunk32

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No problem. The subframe bushings are awesome! The car is so much tighter now. The next thing is an Anonda Motorsports front strut tower bar. I put my deposit in the other day...it'll be here in like 6-8 weeks.

JR
 

Dan Werling

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Endlinks

I didnt get to post this early enough I guess, but one way I have found to take these endlinks off consistently is to take a 18mm deep socket on an impact and hit the nut that holds it. Eventually, the stud will turn, but it will initially loosten everything up. After that then you can use the 2 wrenches. This is what has worked for me quite a few times at the Ford dealer. Maybe it will work for some of you guys! Hope this helps.
 

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