Remote Oil Filter Location?

[Irish Pride]

I plan to install a remote oil filter adapter on my 91 when the next oil change is due. The one I have I bought from Kelvin last summer and its the standard single mount design with AN fittings and braided hoses. My question is for those running remote mounts, where did you mount it? What seems to be the best location for securing the filter and still providing good access to change it. Any pics you can provide will be helpful.

Next question, when I change the oil with a remote filter will I need to drain the lines too or will there just always be a little old oil still in the system?

 

[rubydist]

I think the most common location for the remote filter location is inside the frame rail behind the radiator on the driver's side. The lines will mostly drain when you remove the filter, so no need to worry about the little bit of extra oil that is left behind.

 

[rbruso]

I have a dual filter setup mounted outboard of the frame rail in front of the driver's tire. They are immediately below the air box intake and are a straight shot to the ground.

I ended up using a ThreadSert tool and a 90 degree drill adapter to mount it. The ThreadSerts came in handy as getting to the back of that frame rail with a nut would be difficult.

I trimmed the portion of the wheel well liner that interfered, but kept as much of it as possible.

I installed this setup in 2004-2005 or so and haven't had an issue since. These are simple hose barb fittings, so I do periodically ensure they are snug.

I also haven't had to replace a starter since, as I'm not dribbling all over it every oil change.

The two filters run in parallel and, with the lines included, amount to about a 7.75 quart oil change.


Pictures:

 

[goswald79]

What is the benefit of moving the oil filter. It sounds like the stock location drips on the starter. Is this the main reason? What is with the double filter?

thanks

 

[Banshee]

I'm interested in a relocation kit also. What should I look for?

 

[rubydist]

do be aware that a good portion of the oil dripping on the starter comes from the gasket on the back side of the oil cooler, which on these 20-year old cars is hard and leaking. in order to fix that, you need to replace that seal, which is no longer available. I posted a thread somewhere that has a part number for a napa seal kit that has a o-ring that is the right size to replace the hard factory one.

 

[SHOdded]

rubydist's NAPA seal post:
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/1993-atx-oil-filter-housing-gasket.124888/#post-1383351

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Oil filter relocation kit: http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_48&products_id=49

O Ring Gasket: http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_44&products_id=539

 

[Banshee]

Thanks guys. That's a good bit of info. Looks like a very worthy upgrade to help protect the motor.

 

[SHOspazz92]

I have a Relocation Kit and Cooler for sale in the classifieds.

 

[rbruso]

What is the benefit of moving the oil filter. It sounds like the stock location drips on the starter. Is this the main reason? What is with the double filter?

thanks

Double filters so I can spend more during oil changes, of course!

Double filters are probably overkill for a street motor. You get double the filter area and an extra quart or so of overall capacity with the same oil level in the sump. I'm just shy of 8 quarts with two big Motorcraft filters and the lines. The filters are in parallel, not series, so in theory, they should be able to flow more oil before the internal bypass kicks in. In practice, who knows?

In any case, moving the filter to somewhere with a clear path down to the ground reduces the amount of clean up necessary after pulling the filter. I usually center punch the filters and let them drain while I'm pulling the plug, then just let everything drain while I'm doing something else.

Cheaper relocation kits (like mine) often have flashing you need to clean where the ports were tapped and use less expensive hose barb/hose clamp arrangements. Fine for my daily driver, though, with occasional checks on clamp tightness. Better kits will have less flash to clean up, better hose ends, and options for better hose, but will cost a lot more.