Rebuilding suspension

[blk\blk90]

I just picked up new inner/outer tiered ends, swaybar end links, control arms and front/rear brakes. I'm gonna pick up some quickstruts when I get my student loans next month. I'm thinking about getting the KYB ones. I'm also gonna get the Al SFBs and see if I need the fix kit for them. I'll need to get some bushings for the swaybar and steering rack too. I'm also thinking about the reinforced motor mounts. What other suspension parts will I need to redo everything? And what rear pieces?

I also picked up all new weatherstripping. Doors and moon roof. But I may need to adjust/get new door strikes. I can push the doors in and out easily.

 

[Irish Pride]

You will want to replace the Strut Rod bushings too. Also, look into the strut rod to subframe repair kit just in case. I went with all Thermoplastic bushings(the blue ones) on my suspension and it's super tight. The control arms come with new strut rod bushing for the rear of the front rods, but they are rubber. I remove the rubber bushing and use the TP ones instead. If you are going thru all the effort to change the sway bar bushings you might determine which sway bars you have and possibly upgrade to a different size. This would be the time.

Reinforced mounts are a must. You can remove the torque struts once you have solid mounts and that gives you so much more room to work in the engine bay.

I'd go with Monroe instead of the KYB. Monroes seem to hold up better in my opinion.

Make sure you get parts that have grease fittings. Even if you go with store brand stuff, some will have them and some won't. Same part numbers and everything. Make sure you stress that they need to get the grease fitting ones. At my O'Reillys they will have to order 3 or 4 of the same part to get me the version I want.

 

[luigisho]

I would think twice about aluminum subframe bushings. You get alot of NVH from those. Some people like the rear GenIII subframe bushings on all 4 corners for an upgrade without all the vibration.

 

[blk\blk90]

Where do I get tp bushings? I saw that strut rod bushings come in the quickstrut kits. It definitely needs those, it squeaks and groans when turning at low speeds. I ordered all moog pieces so far. I'm not too concerned with nvh, if I dont like em it's a cheap fix. Plus it's not a DD, it's the play car. Being a 91 it should have 24/26 bars on it.

 

[luigisho]

What kind of tools you working with? I don't have a compressor but I have gotten alot of use from my harbor freight electric impact wrench. Really nice for suspension work.

 

[blk\blk90]

I have a decent set of tools. No air tools. I have an 18v Milwaukee impact. It works for most work. I have been contemplating getting the BIG impact though....

 

[Irish Pride]

Where do I get tp bushings?

Thermoplastic bushings are going to be the Blue(sometimes Red) bushings where regular rubber bushings will be black. All the store brands will offer both. Moog will have a standard replacement and they will also offer the TP ones.

You're thinking matches mine when I redid my 91+ a few years ago. I wanted performance across the board and didn't care about road noise. When I finally get around to doing my Gen3 subframe I might replace the Aluminum bushings with Gen3 rears. My 89 has Gen3 rears and it drives very nice, but my 91 rides like it's on rails, or as my girlfriend says, "it's like riding in a metal box". Lol

 

[rubydist]

I agree with Chad that the KYB struts are substandard quality. They will be great in the beginning, but will wear out way too quickly.

Rockauto has Moog quickstruts for front and rear - that is what I would choose. They also have the Energy Suspension bushings - those are the best imho.

I would also use the Gen3 rear subframe bushings in all 4 positions: DORMAN 924012 for example. The aluminum ones are way too much nvh for me.

 

[blk\blk90]

Thank y'all for the input. I was seriously contemplating just pulling it all out and dropping the money on a gen3 subframe. But I dont have near the experience or room for that. Yet. I have monroes on my tundra and dont like em. Way too soft. I'll go with the moogs and pick up poly everywhere I can. 60k will be next weekend, suspension after that. So I have a little time to get parts here.

 

[itwonder]

To stiffen up those front strut rods, I use the Energy Suspension PN 4.7119G poly bushings. For the front sway bar bushings, go with Energy Suspension 9.5160 + 90 degree zerk fitting. For the rear sway bar bushings, SHO source is the only source, and they are worth it. You can significantly improve the handling by getting the wheel alignment right. For that, you need the Ingalls adjustable rear control arm kit; worth every penny. You'll also need to cut the spot welds on your front strut camber plates, and then slot the 3 mounting holes outward about 1/4". That will let you get the front camber correct. 17 inch wheels with 225/50ZR17 tires makes a marked improvement in handling response. I have Moog cargo coil springs, with one coil cut away on the fronts, with Monroe Sensa trac struts. It's not soft. For what it's worth as a data point, I've installed Monroe quick struts on two Toyota Camrys, and I think they are nicely firmer than stock, but not stiff or harsh.

 

[SHOdded]

^^^ solid gold.

 

[NoSlo]

For the rear control arms, the Taurus only comes equipped with two cams, which simply allow adjustment of the toe. A few trips to the wrecking yard, and you can put cams on all eight control arm pivot points, giving you four times the toe adjustment range, and also allowing you to adjust camber (which is usually "shortening" the arms to the max, unless you have new stock ride height springs).

 

[rubydist]

My feedback on the Monroe Sensatrac struts on the SHO is that they are too firm on small bumps and too soft on large bumps, which makes it sort of wallow.

 

[blk\blk90]

I've got 225/40zr18s on it now. Falken something's. I'm looking at 235/45zr18 to get my speedo back in spec. I think I'm about to bite off more than I can chew again. While the tires are off I'm gonna fix the curb rash in all 4 wheels. May as well wait to do the whole thing when I get new struts too. How long of a job is it to do everything? And what about the tension rods? I'm coming from barely learning how my tundras 4wd suspension works to this. If I need to get pics on any of this I can.

 

[luigisho]

Time really depends on the rust/corrosion. If it's your first time it'll take a while. After a time or two it goes much faster. Quickstruts will really help it move along. On the tension rod, you may have to hold it still with a wrench on the flat spots while you torque the nuts at the end off it it decides to spin on you. Been a long time since I pulled those out so memory not as sharp on that except the corrosion was terrible on mine.

 

[blk\blk90]

I have little to no corrosion. I took a few pics. Questions, comments, concerns welcome.

 

[rubydist]

with all the other cool stuff you have done to that car, you really need a Gen3 subframe under it. you will be amazed at the difference in how it drives.

 

[blk\blk90]

I was seriously thinking about it. But with no garage or engine hoist/holder it would be tough. I'm getting $4k in January and was thinking about the $1200 one from shosource. And I need a clutch. It sure would be easier to change it with the engine and trans out of the car...

 

[blk\blk90]

So I've got all my parts in. I think I'm gonna wait till I get my struts in to do it all at once. And tpr bushings where I can get them. In the mean time, how does this suspension work? Why are there strut rods and what do they do? And there's no upper control arm? Like I said, I'm familiar (somewhat) with my 4wd tundra suspension.

 

[rubydist]

A true MacPherson strut does not have an upper control arm - the strut is the upper part. Since the lower control arm is a single bar rather than an "A" shaped piece with two attachments to the subframe, a strut rod is required to locate the wheel.