Rear wheel stud removal advice

[myotis1134]

Word.

Well the front studs came right out. Admittedly I have not taken a hammer to them yet, but it's 10:00 pm, and the neighbors will yell at me.

I did try to press a couple out with a clamp, but worried about the wheel bearings both times...

The plan is to beat them out (in the morning), with a 5 lb hammer.

Hopefully someone will tell me in time if I'm about to make a horrible mistake.

Peace

 

[NoSlo]

Studs should be pressed in and out of hubs on the bench.



Especially when replacing them all, or else... Investigating a crash:



The ideal clamp torque for a M12 10.9 grade is 97lb-ft. Beyond that goes beyond elastic preload of about 5 tons per bolt and enters the yield and thread-strip region of torque. Pressing may require more than that. Over 95lb-ft will also warp SHO rotors - do not let shops like Costco tire go by their mandatory 105 on the 85-105 spec (in fact, never go to Costco ever for anything).


Reviewing your car year from other posts (1992 mtx), there's a few concerns about the longer studs. 1990-92 uses a different rear hub than 93-95 BTW, a distinction Rockauto doesn't know:

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1992 front - 610-306 (1993-95 with police package)​

​

knurl dia: 13.46mm​

Length: 48mm​

Shoulder: 14mm​

​

1992 rear - 610-344​

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knurl dia: 13.59mm (0.535 in, Wagner BD125832 agrees)​

Length: 46mm (1.811 in)​

Shoulder: 11mm (0.433 in)​

​

​

1993-1995 front 610-365 ​

​

knurl dia: 13.41mm​

Length: 51.5mm​

Shoulder: 13.5mm​

​

1993-1995 rear disc 610-376 ​

​

knurl dia: 13.82mm (0.544mm)​

Length: 49mm​

Shoulder: 14mm​

clipped head 20.07mm dia​

​

​

---610-323​

knurl dia: 12.80mm​

length: 54mm​

shoulder: 8mm​

Each of the knurl diameters above is nearly unique in the Dorman catalog. You can see if your current rear hub has the notch in the stud head (to clear ABS), and then it would likely be the 1993 disc spec (perhaps not listed for 1992 SLO).

The 610-323 has significantly smaller knurl diameter than any Taurus hub. That may make it way too easy to install, and may allow them to spin when torquing or removing.

It is unclear if aftermarket hub makers adhere to this ****** knurl diameter; they may use their own lug stud specification. If so, an aftermarket hub might give a different set of compatible bolt options.

Previously replaced studs also may be easy to remove (as you found on the front) or difficult, if the wrong knurling area diameter was used.

 

[jman1200]

I wouldn't use a large hammer with the hub mounted on the vehicle. It could damage the bearing.
You want to press it out, a large C clamp might work or a $20 ball joint separator can also be used like on this video:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

 

[myotis1134]

@NoSlo - Pure gold. This needs to be stickied.

That is a negative on the head-notch.

@jman1200 - It appears that I'm not pressing anything out today...

More searching is obviously required to find a suitable stud.

Thanks guys. Update when I find a solution.

 

[Deewelch]

That would be a huge mistake, my friend. By the way, if you need a wheel for your car, contact 4wheelonline to avoid making another mistake. They will give you advice on what you should get.