Radiator issues....problem solved. (Yay!)

[Bizzy]

Right now I simply don't care.

I popped a hole in my radiator this afternoon. rant I need some advice/instructions on how to change this sucker out. I NEED to get the car running so I can go to Norwalk tomorrow.

Help, help, help. Please............... frown

<small>[ July 31, 2003, 10:59 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[SHOFEAR94]

My radiator burst 2 weeks ago, a large crack in the plastic part. The cheapest place I found for a new one is Autozone at $139 . I called all the others, NAPA, Pep Boys, Advanced and Autozone is the cheapest. I had some trouble with my transmission lines but I dont think you have that on a MTX.

 

[91 Plus]

SHOFEAR94:
My radiator burst 2 weeks ago, a large crack in the plastic part. The cheapest place I found for a new one is Autozone at $139 . I called all the others, NAPA, Pep Boys, Advanced and Autozone is the cheapest. I had some trouble with my transmission lines but I dont think you have that on a MTX.

Hey can you give here a little help on the install.That is the main thing she is worrying about!

 

[Shuey]

its very simple but can get stubborn.

-disconnect the neg on the battery
-drain the coolant, on the 3.0L, the resevoir might need to be removed.
-remove the fan
-disconnect the top and lower hoses, lower hose can be a b!@#$
-remove the top screws that secure the radiator
-remove radiator and replace

thats basically it, i know it sounds so simple but every sho gives different "stubborness" levels. good luck beer

 

[Bizzy]

Cool. I called Avance and they said they have a radiator for me. I'm off to go and get it, then I'll be out under the hood.

I also called Fred as well for info. I'll keep everybody posted.

 

[Bank of SHO]

1. drain the radiator.
2. remove radiator sight shield (4 8mm bolts).
3. disconnect electrical connctor(loosen-don't remove- the 8mm bolt on wire harness).
4. remove integrated relay control assembly located on radiator support (2 11mm nuts on top--studs come up from underneath.
5. disconnect electric fan connector,
6. unbolt fan shroud assembly from radiator (11mm bolt). There is another bolt that was missing on mine.
7. remove fan/shroud.
8. remove coolant recovery bottle (2 8mm bolts, one of which was shared with the sight cover).
Remove cover and tube.
9. remove battery cable bracket (8mm bolt).
10. disconnect negative battery terminal (you can do this first. I didn't know these things would be in the way).
11. unplug alternator.
12. loosen upper and lower radiator hose clamps and pull the hoses off (8mm hose clamp or screw driver).
13. remove 2 upper radiator retaining screws by filler (10mm each side-left and right- total of 4).
14. remove radiator.
15. put new clips in.
16. install new radiator with new bolts and clips (tighten to 12-24 N.m or 9-17 lb-ft). I did mine at 14 N.m.
17. install radiator hoses.
18. install fan and shroud assembly (tighten bolts to 4 N.m or 36 lb-in). My upper drivers side bolt was missing as stated earlier.
19.install coolant overflow bottle (1 8mm bolt-the other is shared with the sight cover).
20. install fan relay(?) (4 8mm bolts).
21. install integrated relay control assembly (2 11mm nuts on top).
22. plug in relay with 8mm bolt in wire connector.
23. reconnect all the other wire connections.
24. plug in alternatore and reconnect battery.
25. install battery cable bracket (8mm bolt).
26. install sight shield (4 8mm bolts).
27. fill radiator.

My new radiator filled very easily compared to the old one after I flushed it. It was obstructed.

Good luck,
Tom

 

[98shotoy]

Ok Beth I see that you are now possibly going. I just wrote a message in the tri-state forum and didnt make it this far yet. I will check back in the morning on here to see if you are going or not. If you are and have problems give me a call. I am getting up at 6:00am. Sound good? Good luck and I HOPE you get it fixed!!!

 

[Bizzy]

Ok, shroud is out, radiator supports are off, both upper and lower hoses are off. One of the plugs is undone from the alternator, but the one that is held in place with a nut is giving me ****. What's the dealio with this one? The connector just turns with the nut and I don't want to break anything.....

 

[MeShoHorny]

Just cut the bitch and solder it back together later. Cut it so you have enough room to make a nice splice on both ends.

<small>[ July 31, 2003, 08:00 PM: Message edited by: MeShoHorny ]</small>

 

[ohioshodude]

beth! oh_my oh_my NO, hehe hows it going? it's 9:30. lol i'm sure you'll be on it till it's fix! please, please, go! i can race you now, if they will let me!!! thumb thumb thumb

 

[Bank of SHO]

I didn't remove that one. The wire is not in the way. On mine it hangs straight down and is not an issue. All you need to do is make room for removal and installation of the radiator.

 

[Bank of SHO]

I was going by my notes. I didn't even remember that connection until I just took a look. Sorry I caused you unnecessary trouble. Leave that connection alone.

 

[Machspeed]

Im sure you'll have no problems with the radiator. If you can do the tranny, the radiator is super simple.

 

[Bizzy]

IT LIVESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for all the input.

Norwalk.......here I come. wink

 

[luigisho]

Nice job Biz!

 

[Bizzy]

luigisho:
Nice job Biz!

*bows* Thank you! Thank you very much!

I actually finished it up at about 9:45 but I let it run for awhile in the driveway, checking and double checking for leaks. Then I took her for a spin to gas up. I didn't set the idle correctly when I first started it up, but after the spin all was a-ok.

Being as this was my first radiator job ever I'm quite pleased with myself at the moment. Any squeaking you hear is me trying to squeeze my head through the door.

P.S. The lower radiator hose and clamp have a new name in my book now. You guys know what it is. laughing

<small>[ July 31, 2003, 11:41 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[shojuan]

Bizzy:
P.S. The lower radiator hose and clamp have a new name in my book now. You guys know what it is. laughing

What I always try to do is work some silicone spray underneath a stubborn cooling system hose before removal. Sometimes easier said than done and you want to be careful not to damage the surfaces when you try to pry the hose up with a screw driver so you can work some silicone spray underneath.

It won't solve the problem of those bitch hoses outright. Especially the really nasty baked on hoses. But I think in the end the silicone spray trick lowers the total amount of time I'm cussing to a minimum.

When some cussing and determination doesn't seem to be doing the trick: silicone spray.

 

[Machspeed]

" P.S. The lower radiator hose and clamp have a new name in my book now. You guys know what it is"
lol I TOTALLY KNOW WAHT YOU MEAN!!! headbang cuss That bottom hose is a pain. But other then that, it was pretty easy huh? thumb

 

[Bizzy]

FOR SHO:
" P.S. The lower radiator hose and clamp have a new name in my book now. You guys know what it is"
lol I TOTALLY KNOW WAHT YOU MEAN!!! headbang cuss That bottom hose is a pain. But other then that, it was pretty easy huh? thumb

It really was a pie job. The lower hose came off easily, it was the clamp that gave me more problems than anything. I actually have my son Josh to thank for helping me with that one. He put the hurt on the clamp while I slid it off with a screwdriver. I also owe him for helping me put it back on.

On a side note, I never thought that I couldn't do it, but sometimes reading the little tricks from you guys can save a lot of time. Obviously they worked because here I sit, waking up with a cup of joe (check the time), then it's off to Norwalk for the day.

Thanks again to all of you for your help. thumb