My fan motor died; probably worn brushes. The motor shaft is soaking in penetrating oil, and I'm hoping I can get the fan off of it so I can rebuild the motor. In the meantime, I'm wondering if any of you have tried to fit either the SLO 3.0L or 3.8L fan assembly? 3.0L assembly (or the motor) is pretty cheap from Rockauto. Will it fit and does it have adequate capacity? The 3.8L assembly is 9 blade, which probably has more capacity and may run quieter. The motor is dual winding. Will it fit and does the motor on high speed make more noise that the stock SHO fan? I'm ruling out buying a JY SHO fan assembly because the motor brushes are probably about done like mine. Any other ideas?
Radiator Fan Assembly
- Thread starter itwonder
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
The radiator is pretty much the same SLO/SHO I would think the only difference in the fans would be in the wiring.
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
I replaced the bushes in the oem fan on my '89 years ago.
Still working great!
I was able to match up a similar hardness brush, with a similar size, and just cut it down a bit to fit. If I remember right they were actually Makita drill motor brushes. Got them from Ace hardware.
Still working great!
I was able to match up a similar hardness brush, with a similar size, and just cut it down a bit to fit. If I remember right they were actually Makita drill motor brushes. Got them from Ace hardware.
sperold
Last to Know
I think the V6 Tempo is the same fan (if you can find one of them easier).
You need a 3 wire fan which is 2 speed.
You need a 3 wire fan which is 2 speed.
I thought I would post the outcome. The '92 has a single speed motor which is not available. I ended up disassembling my motor and rebuilding it. When I opened it up, two of the four brushes were completely gone, and it looked like they had been that way for a while. The other two were worn down to the lead. It was thoroughly gunked up with carbon dust. I cleaned the housing and armature with de-greaser and rinsed with water. The end plates with the bearings were just wiped down. I chucked the armature in my drill press and polished the commutator with 400 grit sandpaper. The front bearing is riveted in, and I decided not to change it. I used a precision oiler to work a little 90W gear **** down into the bearing. I used just a touch of synthetic grease on the rear bearing.
The reassembled motor is working fine and temperature seems much more stable than it use to be even when the fan was working -- Which brings me to a theory. I think it may be possible that two of the four brushes wear out, and the fan continues to run on the remaining two. But it runs with less power than normal, and is not as effective. Ths temperature swings are greater. Something to consider even if your fan runs.
A few hints for this job. Take pictures and mark the end plates to the case so you can index them as they were when reassembling. There is a little snap ring that is a pita unless you have tiny snap ring pliers. I replaced the one on mine. I found the snap ring and brushes in the right size at True Value Hardware. You have to cut the lead from the copper cap at the end of the new brush and work the lead out the side of the spring. then solder it to the remains of the old lead. there seems to be two types of carbon brushes at hardware stores, a black material and a more silvery metallic color material. I had to use a pair of each to get four. Removing the fan is a pain because of rust. i soaked the shaft with penetrating oil and got it off with some tapping. There is a roll pin you need to drive out of the shaft after removing the fan. Then sand all of the rust off of the shaft and polish it, else you will have trouble disassembling the motor.
If I wanted to replace the whole thing, I would get a two speed fan assembly for the 3.8L SLO. It looks like the same assembly as the SHO. I would then swap my connector from the old assembly over on to it, using only the high speed winding. But I never got to try this since the rebuild worked out.
The reassembled motor is working fine and temperature seems much more stable than it use to be even when the fan was working -- Which brings me to a theory. I think it may be possible that two of the four brushes wear out, and the fan continues to run on the remaining two. But it runs with less power than normal, and is not as effective. Ths temperature swings are greater. Something to consider even if your fan runs.
A few hints for this job. Take pictures and mark the end plates to the case so you can index them as they were when reassembling. There is a little snap ring that is a pita unless you have tiny snap ring pliers. I replaced the one on mine. I found the snap ring and brushes in the right size at True Value Hardware. You have to cut the lead from the copper cap at the end of the new brush and work the lead out the side of the spring. then solder it to the remains of the old lead. there seems to be two types of carbon brushes at hardware stores, a black material and a more silvery metallic color material. I had to use a pair of each to get four. Removing the fan is a pain because of rust. i soaked the shaft with penetrating oil and got it off with some tapping. There is a roll pin you need to drive out of the shaft after removing the fan. Then sand all of the rust off of the shaft and polish it, else you will have trouble disassembling the motor.
If I wanted to replace the whole thing, I would get a two speed fan assembly for the 3.8L SLO. It looks like the same assembly as the SHO. I would then swap my connector from the old assembly over on to it, using only the high speed winding. But I never got to try this since the rebuild worked out.
Last edited:
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
Finally Upgrading After 18 Months Of Ownership- Latest: Texas Marauder
