rack & pinion replacement

[MeanGrnTx]

how hard is it to replace the rack and pinion?anybody done it any pointers would be appreciated.
-Robert

 

[93rev2sev]

Been there, done that.

Here ya go,

Disco the neg batt cable.
Raise and safely support vehicle.
Remove/disconnect: front wheels, outer tie rod ends, y-pipe.
Safely support engine (search "engine support pictures" in this forum)
Disconnect all three engine mount to subframe connections
Loosen or remove 2 large steering rack to subframe nuts
Loosen or remove steering rack fluid lines
Disconnect VAPS connector (if present)
Support subframe with 2 jackstands in front and 1 floor jack in back
Loosen front 2 subframe bushing to body bolts about 3/4" backed out
Remove both rear subframe bolts.
Slowly lower floor jack. The engine should stay put but the subframe should start sagging soon.

You should be able to manage the rest if you got this far. Or maybe someone else will chime in...I gotta ***....

 

[sdpatt]

You must also remove the steering column in the driver's footwell. It would be wise to check the AutoZone.com Repair Guides section for the Chilton's manual procedure on this job. I was able to replace the rack without dropping the subframe. Either way, you will need an alignment to drive straight again.

 

[drivinhard]

I recently replaced a rack on a 93 VAPS car and also my 92. Used an AZ reman Atsco unit for the VAPS cars, and a reman Cardone unit from Advance on the 92. The Atsco unit works great, the Cardone I used in my 92 is a piece of junk. The steering effort is WAY light, like a VAPS unit on full boost all the time. Ruined the feel of the car (which always had nice weighted steering). Valving on it is way off. And right out of the box it wants to pulsate/kick back under load.

Measure your toe before you start. Once you get it back together, get the toe set, and then you can center the wheel after that. 1 turn on a tie rod to center the wheel goes a long way, probably 35-40 degrees (on the wheel).